Chasing Exhaust Leaks, This is maddening, so many issues. Options

[TheCabinetmaker]

Torque is 14lbs. "About 20"? Did you use a torque wrench? Never saw a setting that said about. Overtightening will cause the ears to bend and possibly crack, and can strip the threads in the head. Torque to 10, then 12, then 14. Torque slowly, and "feel" for anything that doesn't seem right. Install muffler, but just snug before torqueing he's. I had a Bursch muffler that just would not seal. The flanges were thin, and warped. Had my welder make new flanges from ¼" steel. 4 years and no leaks yet. Won't buy another Bursch! The last one l bought still had wet paint out of the box, and you could see where they beat a cavity in it to accommodate the misplaced pipes. It cracked at that point.

[ctc911ctc]

Excellent Guidance!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I used a 1/4 inch drive. I hand tightened them to a good strong but not teeth-gnashing torque. New lovely copper nuts, synch, tighten, tighten, round and round while watching the copper gaskets making certain they were proud on all sides of the pipe.

Putting the final touches on today - will post results.

CTC911CTC

Torque is 14lbs. "About 20"? Did you use a torque wrench? Never saw a setting that said about. Overtightening will cause the ears to bend and possibly crack, and can strip the threads in the head. Torque to 10, then 12, then 14. Torque slowly, and "feel" for anything that doesn't seem right. Install muffler, but just snug before torqueing he's. I had a Bursch muffler that just would not seal. The flanges were thin, and warped. Had my welder make new flanges from ¼" steel. 4 years and no leaks yet. Won't buy another Bursch! The last one l bought still had wet paint out of the box, and you could see where they beat a cavity in it to accommodate the misplaced pipes. It cracked at that point.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

there could be a host of problems that I can explain to you but do not have the time to type them all in. Please call me and we can go over it

All,

'74 914, 2L, original engine - about 20K miles

I started a new thread because the ones I could find did not address this issue. Perhaps it is me????

Last month I purchased new gaskets (thanks Mark @914R) and annealed them as per instructions. Used super glue to stick them in place. Mounted the heat exchanger/manifold and locked them in with around 20lbs of torque. Copper goo on the nuts, etc.

When I started the car it was the sound of my youth - smooth, strong,,,,,,ahh

After a few days the sound changed, using a rubber tube held to my ear I found exhaust leaks in the junction to the muffler (used new gaskets, alum sandwiched ones).

Here are the leaks

Copper Gasket Leaks



Seems as if the nuts were not tight enough. I made certain that the edge of the pipes were square and both on the same plane.

Questions as to the copper gaskets:

1. Seems that one was not seated concentrically with the pipe, that exhaust was leaking from day one - is there a method to square this or center it?

2. the other gasket it seems did not get seated at all, so it seems as if it was concentric just not tight enough?????

Now the aluminum Gaskets




I really tightened the bolts, I have ordered new gaskets and am brushing smooth the flanges which were both kind of cruddy, any advice as to installing these?


THANK YOU TEENERS!

[TheCabinetmaker]

Com'n George! Don't be so lazy. Post what you know here, like the rest of us. I'm not too old (71) to learn something.

[rjames]

Excellent Guidance!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I used a 1/4 inch drive. I hand tightened them to a good strong but not teeth-gnashing torque. New lovely copper nuts, synch, tighten, tighten, round and round while watching the copper gaskets making certain they were proud on all sides of the pipe.

Putting the final touches on today - will post results.

CTC911CTC

imho a torque wrench is a must for this job as it's way too easy to over tighten them.

[ctc911ctc]

*******CONCLUSION*********

Some of you have been following my "long on knowledge, short on experience" exploits with this new to me '74 2.0 barn find.

Getting it started then running right, then tuned properly then tuned again, then again and now exhaust leaks.

1. I remounted the SSI HE (shat does ssi stand for, are they still in business?) using methods described by George and others (THANK YOU TEENERS) and am able to see shiny copper on all sides of the pipes at the heads now.

2. Used new copper BelMtetric nuts, synched all around until firm

Started the car today, pure 1974 music. Just the muffler sound and the crazy clockworks or that 4 cylinder German masterpiece. Ahhhhhhhhh.......

Long road, on to the next challenge!

[IronHillRestorations]

Nothing like resolving a problem, good work!

Take care removing the exhaust nuts in the future, as the nuts you got are "prevailing torque" lock nuts which can cause exhaust studs to back out.

[porschetub]

Well done (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[9fourteen14]

*****UPDATE******

It dawned on me that the reason you file the HE pipes that interface to the copper gaskets is NOT to level them as much as to square the pipe to the face of the gaskets.........so German.

Soo, I put a good face on the pipe and used these nuts from BelMetric. They went on super smooth and when I cranked they were very smooth no squeaks, etc.



As you can see this is what they look like installed and I was able to examine and see copper on all sides of the pipe PRIOR to synching them



Starting it tomorrow, will advise.

thanx so much for the pictures.. i need to check mine 914 luva

[falcor75]

This is how I did it a few years ago. For the rear aluminium gaskets I use the exhaust goo that goes solid once warmed up.

http://matsgarage.com/?p=1124