Which route to take - original or show quality? |
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914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
Which route to take - original or show quality? |
gturner008 |
Apr 26 2020, 08:35 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 21-April 20 From: Toronto Member No.: 24,163 Region Association: Canada |
Background. I have purchased a beauty. 1976, 39k mile, one owner, stunningly original car. Completely stock, original everything - never been painted and in perfect condition. Every detail is correct. Main dealer maintenance (19 services). No corrosion anywhere, even no surface rust on any fasteners - even under the car.
The car has the full rust treatment from new. Zeibart receipt from 1976. They really went to town. All the cavities wax treated, along with clear wax spray of the floor, and all underfloor moving parts. Engine and transmission coated in a thick wax coating. The wheel wells were given a coating of black stone chip material. With 39k miles, there is some stone chipping to the black undercoating, and you can see a few areas of the white paint showing. The engine underside is not pretty, given the thick wax coating. The suspension parts, front and rear, also don’t look new and shiny, because of the wax coating. Underneath the coatings, everything could be shiny and looking like new. My question is, given I am detailing the car for shows and wanting to present the car in the best way possible, what route to take? Do I get everything as clean and fresh as I can - but leave the anti corrosion coatings in place? Or do I strip back all the coatings and get it to look pristine and factory new looking? My instinct is the former. After all, this is how it left the selling dealer from new. A nice problem to have, I know. I’m so lucky to have bought this absolutely lovely example. I don’t want to do something I later regret. There’s that old saying. It’s only original once. I love the look of newly restored cars, where everything is shiny and new. But this isn’t a restored car. It’s original down to the last detail. I’d really appreciate your views and opinions. Hope this makes sense. Thanks all. |
gturner008 |
May 4 2020, 07:27 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 21-April 20 From: Toronto Member No.: 24,163 Region Association: Canada |
Thanks Tom. Great advice.
Today I started the exterior body work. Parts are taking forever - so just moving through the list. My car has pretty distinct orange peel. The ivory white has held up very well. Virtually no yellowing at all. I put this down to the car being garaged all it’s life. Not a lot of direct sunlight. The rubber and dash, for example, or like new. No degradation at all. I’m light machine polishing, fine grade. Then applying polish, then ceramic coating. It’s looking good, keeping the orange peel in place. There are a few stone chips, which were touched in during the past. I’m 2000 grit sanding to remove the over paint. I’ll then retouch and wet sand and buff. It’ll look a lot better than what’s there now. It’s a slow process, but I feel like I’m getting there. Been at it for 11 days now - 7 hrs per day. I know it’s nothing compared to the brave folks on this site tackling major restorations of cars. My car needs a different sort of work. Close attention to details - trying to keep it original and survivor class. I’ll post more pictures up soon. Thanks again. |
Tom_T |
May 6 2020, 07:34 PM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Thanks Tom. Great advice. Today I started the exterior body work. Parts are taking forever - so just moving through the list. My car has pretty distinct orange peel. The ivory white has held up very well. Virtually no yellowing at all. I put this down to the car being garaged all it’s life. Not a lot of direct sunlight. The rubber and dash, for example, or like new. No degradation at all. I’m light machine polishing, fine grade. Then applying polish, then ceramic coating. It’s looking good, keeping the orange peel in place. There are a few stone chips, which were touched in during the past. I’m 2000 grit sanding to remove the over paint. I’ll then retouch and wet sand and buff. It’ll look a lot better than what’s there now. It’s a slow process, but I feel like I’m getting there. Been at it for 11 days now - 7 hrs per day. I know it’s nothing compared to the brave folks on this site tackling major restorations of cars. My car needs a different sort of work. Close attention to details - trying to keep it original and survivor class. I’ll post more pictures up soon. Thanks again. Gary - Think on that Ceramic though - it may make it too shiny & make the orange peel stand out too much. I'd say go old school polish & a good Carnuba Wax, since they were made for our old school paints. Also, if you're wanting to update your audio while preserving the vintage radio, Woody's Customs here in SoCal offers bluetooh & USB/3.5mm adapters, uder seat/behind seat speakers which can run wires under the carpet & place the flat speakers under or behind the seats inconspicuously (removed for show if you want also). https://www.woodyscustomshop.com/online-store/ It sounds like you're approaching it the right way. Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// |
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