Which route to take - original or show quality? |
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914/4: 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 914/6: 70 71 72
Which route to take - original or show quality? |
gturner008 |
Apr 26 2020, 08:35 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 21-April 20 From: Toronto Member No.: 24,163 Region Association: Canada |
Background. I have purchased a beauty. 1976, 39k mile, one owner, stunningly original car. Completely stock, original everything - never been painted and in perfect condition. Every detail is correct. Main dealer maintenance (19 services). No corrosion anywhere, even no surface rust on any fasteners - even under the car.
The car has the full rust treatment from new. Zeibart receipt from 1976. They really went to town. All the cavities wax treated, along with clear wax spray of the floor, and all underfloor moving parts. Engine and transmission coated in a thick wax coating. The wheel wells were given a coating of black stone chip material. With 39k miles, there is some stone chipping to the black undercoating, and you can see a few areas of the white paint showing. The engine underside is not pretty, given the thick wax coating. The suspension parts, front and rear, also don’t look new and shiny, because of the wax coating. Underneath the coatings, everything could be shiny and looking like new. My question is, given I am detailing the car for shows and wanting to present the car in the best way possible, what route to take? Do I get everything as clean and fresh as I can - but leave the anti corrosion coatings in place? Or do I strip back all the coatings and get it to look pristine and factory new looking? My instinct is the former. After all, this is how it left the selling dealer from new. A nice problem to have, I know. I’m so lucky to have bought this absolutely lovely example. I don’t want to do something I later regret. There’s that old saying. It’s only original once. I love the look of newly restored cars, where everything is shiny and new. But this isn’t a restored car. It’s original down to the last detail. I’d really appreciate your views and opinions. Hope this makes sense. Thanks all. |
gturner008 |
May 3 2020, 05:57 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 127 Joined: 21-April 20 From: Toronto Member No.: 24,163 Region Association: Canada |
Will do Steve.
The car has an interesting history. One owner - same lady, kept in wonderful condition. I’ve been promised early photos - and more history. I’m going to keep the decals. I’m also going to detail the car as a survivor. Keeping with the original Zeibart anti corrosion protection. Does not look pretty, but it is what it looked like when it was delivered new. I decided I don’t want to buff it up like new - but try to get it to look like as it was when it was first delivered. Make sense? Gary |
Tom_T |
May 4 2020, 11:15 AM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Will do Steve. The car has an interesting history. One owner - same lady, kept in wonderful condition. I’ve been promised early photos - and more history. I’m going to keep the decals. I’m also going to detail the car as a survivor. Keeping with the original Zeibart anti corrosion protection. Does not look pretty, but it is what it looked like when it was delivered new. I decided I don’t want to buff it up like new - but try to get it to look like as it was when it was first delivered. Make sense? Gary Hi Gary - Yes, it absolutely does. The original 914 paint had a slight orange peel to it from the factory, so an over working of the paint would remove it. Pat Garvey - our original O&H moderator had talked about it on here many times, & had gone as far as to have the painter for the repaint of his back in the 80s - 90s (??) do the orange peel. While I didn't know that detail back on my own 2 color changed repaints of mine, I would not recommend changing it nor over working the paint on an original survivor. When I mentioned above about a pro detailer checking & doing a deep clean-up, I was not recommending taking the paint down to smooth (you don't want to lose that much paint anyway). Also, the L80E Light Ivory on yours is one of the best colors for not oxidizing, while reds like Steve's 73 & my buddy Jerry's 71 in "The few, the rare..." topic is one of the worst for oxidizing due to the pigments used in the paints. The condition of both of their original Bahia Red 914s is a testament to long term careful care. As I said on the 914 roundel decal, live with it for a while at least, before deciding, but there is nothing wrong with keeping it permanently IMHO. Just be careful with polishes & other product on top & at the edges, because they can mar the printing, as well as build up at the edges of the decal - which looks bad & will get points dinged in our PCA Zone 8 Concours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// |
Pat Garvey |
Jun 7 2020, 03:41 PM
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#4
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Do I or don't I...........? Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States |
Will do Steve. The car has an interesting history. One owner - same lady, kept in wonderful condition. I’ve been promised early photos - and more history. I’m going to keep the decals. I’m also going to detail the car as a survivor. Keeping with the original Zeibart anti corrosion protection. Does not look pretty, but it is what it looked like when it was delivered new. I decided I don’t want to buff it up like new - but try to get it to look like as it was when it was first delivered. Make sense? Gary Hi Gary - Yes, it absolutely does. The original 914 paint had a slight orange peel to it from the factory, so an over working of the paint would remove it. Pat Garvey - our original O&H moderator had talked about it on here many times, & had gone as far as to have the painter for the repaint of his back in the 80s - 90s (??) do the orange peel. While I didn't know that detail back on my own 2 color changed repaints of mine, I would not recommend changing it nor over working the paint on an original survivor. When I mentioned above about a pro detailer checking & doing a deep clean-up, I was not recommending taking the paint down to smooth (you don't want to lose that much paint anyway). Also, the L80E Light Ivory on yours is one of the best colors for not oxidizing, while reds like Steve's 73 & my buddy Jerry's 71 in "The few, the rare..." topic is one of the worst for oxidizing due to the pigments used in the paints. The condition of both of their original Bahia Red 914s is a testament to long term careful care. As I said on the 914 roundel decal, live with it for a while at least, before deciding, but there is nothing wrong with keeping it permanently IMHO. Just be careful with polishes & other product on top & at the edges, because they can mar the printing, as well as build up at the edges of the decal - which looks bad & will get points dinged in our PCA Zone 8 Concours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// Hey Tom! My car was re-sprayed in 1979 and, as you stated, the orange peel level on the engine lid was the determinant for the rest of the car (the lid was never sprayed). Tough decision on the decal on the car mentioned here - it's a personal decision I guess. And, as someone else noted, you cab removed the Ziebart goo from everything but you'll still have the Ziebart holes and caps (I have spares if anyone needs them). I stripped every bit of it off my '72 in '74, except for the wheel wells. Once again, a personal choice. Pat |
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