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> Alternator light on?
76-914
post Jun 4 2020, 09:44 AM
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QUOTE(914Toy @ Jun 3 2020, 02:10 PM) *

had the Alternator checked this morning. Not charging because on or more of the diodes had failed. Expect to pick up the alternator tomorrow morning and have it back in the car by the end of the day. So I expect to join all of you on Saturday morning early (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Keep your old alt. R&R the defective diode then you'll have a spare. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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worn
post Jun 4 2020, 01:25 PM
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QUOTE(914Toy @ May 31 2020, 06:06 AM) *

What is the purpose of the diode attached to the alternator light terminal. The Haynes manual shows it connected in parallel with the blue alternator wire, connected to the brown with white stripe wires, but detail is difficult to be sure?


I worked through this a few years ago. Here is a link to the post:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/lofiversion/i...hp?t262302.html

I even made a spiffy schematic. OK, maybe not actually spiffy
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914Toy
post Jun 4 2020, 03:13 PM
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Alternator had broken diodes. Service replaced the diode pack with a checkout. Installed the alternator this morning - all systems go with steady 14.6 volts.

Lessons learned: 1) our 911 engines from the early/mid 70's through the 80's do not have a diode behind the alternator light gauge, 2) the three wires attached to the alternator need to be insulated well to avoid grounding (in my case the small blue wire may have ground out at the alternator where it is difficult to see in the final stages of remounting the alternator to the engine, and 3) agree with Kent, these 911 alternators can generally be repaired for much less than buying a new or even refurbished unit.

Now ready for Saturday's Tour (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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porschetub
post Jun 4 2020, 04:06 PM
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Some more tips I picked up when doing mine ;
1- make sure the ground strap engine case to altenator is in good condition,mine was pretty crusty so I just replaced it,this advice came from Perry when he made my loom.
2- make sure you mark the top of the f/glass air deflector before removing as it can only work one way.
3- I found the nuts holding the air deflector were all loose,I replaced them with nylock nuts and larger washers to help prevent cracking the thin f/glass flange.
4- more sure you don't overtighten the fan housing strap otherwise the fan will contact in places...ask me how I know.
In summary its not an easy job so best to do it right the first time.
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