Patrick motorsports/naroescape motorsports 6 engine mount, Any one have any tips and tricks for the installation . Options

[Lg914]

Good Saturday fine people.
I am getting things ready to install a naroescape motorsports engine mount for our six conversion. I understand that the engine will sit lower and after communicating with them they said the engine tin would need to be bent up in order to meet with the sealing rubber. Further they said that the mount is positioned where is is (low) so that it didn’t interfere with the proportioning valve for the rear brakes. We we don’t have have this valve as somewhere in it’s life our car was modified with a T fitting. We have autocrossed the car last year and didn’t find this to be an issue. So maybe I just weld the mount Ira bit higher? This is basically the same mount that Patrick Motorsports sells and they make it work on their builds.

So my question is this. Any one have any experience with these mounts? I am interested in the tilting aspect to be able to get my fat fingers to work on the engine while in the car. Telling me to ditch. This mount and get a different mount is not going to be very helpful (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif). I want to make this work but don’t want to reinvent the wheel.

Thanking everyone in advance for any help.

[Tdskip]

A bit hard to follow, but if you are asking if this mount works the answer is yes and don't think tin fitment is a big deal with it.

Unless you get confirmation that mounting it lower is a good idea I'd be reluctant to do that.

This is the mount I bought for my 3.2 build, haven't installed it yet but mocked it up.

[Lg914]

Maybe I can make my question simpler. Any one have issues mounting the mount as designed? If so what were they? And what did you do to overcome them?

Anyone raise the mount so that the engine tin sealed better? If so did you encounter any issues? If so what were they? And what did you do to overcome them?

Hoe this makes my obtuse rambling question more clear.

[Tdskip]

Now that will get you the info you want.

Hope you are having a good start to your weekend.

[JOEPROPER]

This was addressed by Ben @mb911 in a recent post. Maybe he will see this and chime in.
I have this mount waiting to be installed too and am optimistic because PMS uses it and others have had success with it. Like any modified car, you may need to figure it out as you go.

[Mark Henry]

Bolt it up un-welded, install the engine, bolt up the trans mounts, then using a jack etc position it so the seal hooks onto the tin nice, keep in mind it will settle a 1/8"-1/4" with full weight and tack weld it in place. Tack in places you can easily grind in case you need further adjustment. Remove engine and finish welding the mount.

The way I did this is with my 2 post lift and a scissor lift table which is probably the easiest and safest way. I used an RJ copy but the procedure should be the same.

[PanelBilly]

You also need to think about what exhaust you're using, the shifting linkage and the oil lines. There needs to be room for everything to fit. Seems like a lot of work, but mocking it all up before final welding is a good idea. Sorry to complicate your life.

[Tdskip]

Bolt it up un-welded, install the engine, bolt up the trans mounts, then using a jack etc position it so the seal hooks onto the tin nice, keep in mind it will settle a 1/8"-1/4" with full weight and tack weld it in place. Tack in places you can easily grind in case you need further adjustment. Remove engine and finish welding the mount.

The way I did this is with my 2 post lift and a scissor lift table which is probably the easiest and safest way. I used an RJ copy but the procedure should be the same.

Good stuff, thanks.

[Lg914]

Bolt it up un-welded, install the engine, bolt up the trans mounts, then using a jack etc position it so the seal hooks onto the tin nice, keep in mind it will settle a 1/8"-1/4" with full weight and tack weld it in place. Tack in places you can easily grind in case you need further adjustment. Remove engine and finish welding the mount.

The way I did this is with my 2 post lift and a scissor lift table which is probably the easiest and safest way. I used an RJ copy but the procedure should be the same.

Thanks for the good idea.

[Lg914]

You also need to think about what exhaust you're using, the shifting linkage and the oil lines. There needs to be room for everything to fit. Seems like a lot of work, but mocking it all up before final welding is a good idea. Sorry to complicate your life.

Thanks for the input. Trying to avoid mock up. But probably can’t. At the present time the engine is a state away safe and sound while the garage with the car is small without adequate storage to safely store the motor. I am going to use Ben’s heat exchangers and exhaust. All oil cooler pluming will be braided soft lines except for the one short hardline on the motor.

I love a puzzle but don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Always willing to learn from others.

[sixnotfour]

The real measuring point would be from the floor weld flange to the two bottom holes of the mount.. is 3 inches up from weld flange.

that's my factory piece..not bolted together in photo, yes my crapy photo.

[porschetub]

You also need to think about what exhaust you're using, the shifting linkage and the oil lines. There needs to be room for everything to fit. Seems like a lot of work, but mocking it all up before final welding is a good idea. Sorry to complicate your life.

Thanks for the input. Trying to avoid mock up. But probably can’t. At the present time the engine is a state away safe and sound while the garage with the car is small without adequate storage to safely store the motor. I am going to use Ben’s heat exchangers and exhaust. All oil cooler pluming will be braided soft lines except for the one short hardline on the motor.

I love a puzzle but don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Always willing to learn from others.

My engine was too low in the front using stock six bulkhead bracket and NOS rubber mount.raised it up and reached a compromise between the motor being level and the engine having the least gap with the engine tins.
I have to move my brake regulator, to the PO try to find this part and fit it...its there for a reason.
Mark Henry nailed it with fitment, it may require pulling it twice and refitting atleast,you can't assume anything in this situation ,the PO of my car told me the position of the welded in bulkhead mount was modeled off an original six....someone got it wrong ,do it right the first time as it a tight fit in there and there can be clearance issues.

[sixnotfour]

"was modeled off an original six....someone got it wrong "

70s reg was in a different placement.....factory six mounts where consistent 3300 units.....

[mb911]

The major issues could be

1shift linkages
2 heat exchanger fitment (very close with stock heat exchangers)
3 engine seals (bending yeah not seeing that happening)

[ConeDodger]

I’d suggest the McMount which is a close replica to the factory mount. Call Original Customs in Grand Rapids MI. Or @McMark here.

It’s in this car. Nothing had to be modified to use it...

[mb911]

I’d suggest the McMount which is a close replica to the factory mount. Call Original Customs in Grand Rapids MI. Or @McMark here.

It’s in this car. Nothing had to be modified to use it...

That's my current recommendation as well..

Also the Naro or PMS mount won't work with the stock -6 scavange oil line.. Not that any of feed back I gave was/is in anyway saying those mounts are bad products. The reality is I never understood the impact the mount would have on the other item's.

[sixnotfour]

I’d suggest the McMount which is a close replica to the factory mount. Call Original Customs in Grand Rapids MI. Or @McMark here. It’s in this car. Nothing had to be modified to use it...

Maddog is McMarks vendor
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=287447