Gas pedal mount rusted Options

[nditiz1]

Found a nice rust gathering place while trying to fix a wobbly gas pedal (bushing destroyed).

What are my best options here? I have a mig welder, never used it. I could buy a pice from restoration design, but I really only need a piece of metal for the pedal mount and possibly the assembly mount (1 stud broken). Does anyone sell like a 10x10 pedal assembly section?

Should I just use a flat piece of steel with two studs and weld in 2 nuts? Does anyone have a template?

I think for now, ill just try to extract the two rust bonded 10mm bolts out of the pedal mount and por 15 it. Them vise grips failed to remove onto the Drexel. Maybe heat?

To love a 914 is to love rust (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[BillC]

That floor section is pretty well roached. You might be able to get the bolts out if you use a torch to heat the welded nuts red hot. But, just be careful not to set the car on fire.

If you decide to weld in a patch, you should practice on scrap sheet metal first. A lot of practice. Welding sheet metal is tough at first, and welding on thin, rusty metal is even tougher -- you don't want your first welds to be on something you plan to keep (been there, done that).

[mepstein]

Get a map gas kit at the hardware store. They should come with every 914.

[SO.O.C914er]

Nothing a whole bottle of loctite naval jelly can’t handle! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Yeah that is bad.

[bdstone914]

Only one of the bolts is accessable. The orher is under the reinforcement under the car. Take a lit under the car and you will understand. You probably need a good section from another car.
I sold a chunk of car to @eric_shea that included that section. He may be able to part with it

[nditiz1]

Thanks Bruce! Where's my pedal at???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I got you this core out so will use your box to return this one to you.

@eric_shea . Can I get that section plz?

Was thinking of grinding the sides flat for more grip/torque area to use the vise grips with and heating up with a propane torch. Mark i will look into that map gas kit.

[mepstein]

Thanks Bruce! Where's my pedal at???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I got you this core out so will use your box to return this one to you.

@eric_shea . Can I get that section plz?

Was thinking of grinding the sides flat for more grip/torque area to use the vise grips with and heating up with a propane torch. Mark i will look into that map gas kit.

They are $40-50 at the hardware store and you'll wonder how you every got by without one. Much hotter/faster than propane.

[bkrantz]

That floor section is pretty well roached. You might be able to get the bolts out if you use a torch to heat the welded nuts red hot. But, just be careful not to set the car on fire.

If you decide to weld in a patch, you should practice on scrap sheet metal first. A lot of practice. Welding sheet metal is tough at first, and welding on thin, rusty metal is even tougher -- you don't want your first welds to be on something you plan to keep (been there, done that).

Welding onto rust is essentially impossible.

To fix this right, you have to find the limits of rusted metal (or at least where removing the rust layer will leave enough metal thickness to work with).

[Eric_Shea]

Thanks Bruce! Where's my pedal at???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I got you this core out so will use your box to return this one to you.

@eric_shea . Can I get that section plz?

Was thinking of grinding the sides flat for more grip/torque area to use the vise grips with and heating up with a propane torch. Mark i will look into that map gas kit.

It comes wrapped in a $85,000 off-road car. I'll put your name on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[nditiz1]

Thanks Bruce! Where's my pedal at???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) I got you this core out so will use your box to return this one to you.

@eric_shea . Can I get that section plz?

Was thinking of grinding the sides flat for more grip/torque area to use the vise grips with and heating up with a propane torch. Mark i will look into that map gas kit.

It comes wrapped in a $85,000 off-road car. I'll put your name on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Seems fair. New FS ad- 74 914 Silver 916 tribute, minor rust in floor $84,999 obo
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[nditiz1]

MAP torch acquired, let's do this!!!

[Costa05]

Had similar issues on mine but rust continued into the pedal cluster. Ended up with new front half floor pan, pedal cluster reinforcement metal from RD, and a fabricated patch panel at firewall to tie it all together. Not easy. Hopefully you find clean metal close by the cancer area to weld to.

[nditiz1]

Oh Starry night!

Rust is worse than antic... wait no its not (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1591792085.1.jpg)

Got the bolts grounded flat. Tried the MAP first. I tried to twist the bolt, but it just sheared off the head. These will be drilled out. Again this is only a temp fix until I have more time (you got kids ya bastard, you'll never have time, lol), until I can do it properly, 1 day in the next 10 years. I have a feeling this was always this bad and it hasn't gotten worse in the previous 13 year ownership. Looks like the large piece of floor pan from RD is this cars future.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1591792085.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1591792085.3.jpg)

[bkrantz]

If you want to fix this in true ghetto style, you need some fiberglass, pop riviets, and a piece of old highway sign.

[nditiz1]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I just want the POR-15 to keep the beast contained until I can address it properly.

Oddly enough the gas pedal mount location is pretty sound even though the area around it is caving in.

[nditiz1]

The refurbished pedal cluster is in! No more wobbly pedal. Also, I hate drilling out bolts. At least the new pedal from 914rubber is secured in place until a new piece of floor pan can be welded in.

(IMG:http://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49998391872_6d60952175_c.jpg)

[BillC]

That floor section is pretty well roached. You might be able to get the bolts out if you use a torch to heat the welded nuts red hot. But, just be careful not to set the car on fire.

If you decide to weld in a patch, you should practice on scrap sheet metal first. A lot of practice. Welding sheet metal is tough at first, and welding on thin, rusty metal is even tougher -- you don't want your first welds to be on something you plan to keep (been there, done that).

Welding onto rust is essentially impossible.

To fix this right, you have to find the limits of rusted metal (or at least where removing the rust layer will leave enough metal thickness to work with).

While you can't weld directly to rust, you can weld to rusted thin metal after the rust is removed. Welding to thin metal is tough (the thinner, the tougher), and really requires practice to do properly, which is the point of my original post. Considering all the welding you've done lately, you should appreciate a suggestion to OP to practice on scraps before attempting to weld patches into his car.

[nditiz1]

That's what I plan on doing Bill. I will most likely be using the Restoration Design piece and definitely want to make sure I know how to do it properly on some scrap piece of similar metals.

Unfortunately time is a precious commodity so in order not to have extensive down time for this car, I am deferring the proper repair to the unforeseeable future.

[bkrantz]

That floor section is pretty well roached. You might be able to get the bolts out if you use a torch to heat the welded nuts red hot. But, just be careful not to set the car on fire.

If you decide to weld in a patch, you should practice on scrap sheet metal first. A lot of practice. Welding sheet metal is tough at first, and welding on thin, rusty metal is even tougher -- you don't want your first welds to be on something you plan to keep (been there, done that).

Welding onto rust is essentially impossible.

To fix this right, you have to find the limits of rusted metal (or at least where removing the rust layer will leave enough metal thickness to work with).

While you can't weld directly to rust, you can weld to rusted thin metal after the rust is removed. Welding to thin metal is tough (the thinner, the tougher), and really requires practice to do properly, which is the point of my original post. Considering all the welding you've done lately, you should appreciate a suggestion to OP to practice on scraps before attempting to weld patches into his car.

Absolutely. Even with practice getting a reasonable weld on a rusted section, even after removing rust (unless a chemical dip) is not easy--and not predictable.