My '74 Budget GT Tribute build, Undergoing repairs to the shell Options

[Montreal914]

Very nice progress! Both of these cowl repairs look very good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That engine surely is a good motivator. Keep going at it, you will be at the painting stage before you know it. Have you found a shop near your area?

[pencap914]

Very nice progress! Both of these cowl repairs look very good! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

That engine surely is a good motivator. Keep going at it, you will be at the painting stage before you know it. Have you found a shop near your area?

Thanks! I used your thread as inspiration to tackle the cowl repairs. I've thought about a few shops for painting, just talking with others with car projects like this. Thinking of a shop in Nevada, because they can use paints that aren't subject to California laws...? Something about VOC limits...? I haven't looked into it much, I'm just trying to put one foot in front of the other. I do have a media blasting place lined up in Sacramento. Just need to finish fiddling with the tub and get it to him to have it stripped and primed. My goal is to now have it blasted for me to do all the block sanding, high-build primering, and general paint prep in time to have it painted by summer 2024. I've even started researching into painting it myself.

Classic case of "Ok how hard can this be?" I'm sure I'll eat those words...

From what I understand here's the recipe for successful painting:

1. Clean/Dry air supply
   

   Well I have a 40 gallon compressor, nameplate states 11.5 SCFM @ 90psi. Just need to rig up a way to keep the air clean and dry. Looking at using home-brew copper coil and an ice bucket in combination with some kind of cooler between the compressor and tank with a water catch drain.

2. Ventilated Clean room/paint booth
   

   This one will take some construction, but seems totally doable. I've seen a few guys fabricate a homemade paint booth using a carport, plastic, box fans and filters. Keeping dust out is key!

3. Proper environmental conditions (Temp/Humidity)
   

   Living in the central valley in Northern California, its pretty easy to find a string of days where we would be in temp range, and humidity hovers around 40-50%. Shouldn't be much of a problem.

4. Attention to temperature/mixing of materials
   

   Just read the manufacturer's spec sheet on the paint materials....right?

5. Technique
   I cant do much about my lack of painting experience other than Youtube videos, and perhaps a practice run on my wheel barrow and kids RadioFlyer wagon... I'm already ok with this car not winning any concourse events anyhow. I'm building this car for me to enjoy behind the wheel, not sitting in a lawn chair behind it at car shows. (No offense to those who enjoy that!) [indent]

[pencap914]

Car is back on the rotisserie to take care of a few things before sending off to media blasting.

Next task: Install the GT stiffening kit. I was debating on if this was worth it, but after talking with Eric Shea at Rennsport reunion at Laguna Seca, he's convincing me its a good idea if I'm going to run a 6cyl engine with wide tires. Who knows I may end up autocrossing or taking the car to the occasional track day so a few extra pounds of metal can't hurt.

Anyone have any tips/tricks or pitfalls to avoid?



Since the car already has the "outer longitudinal stiffening kit" installed, I don't think I'll be using the left piece of this kit.

[pencap914]

Well this idea backfired a bit...I painted the weld-through primer over these dots for where the rosette weld holes line up with the outer stiffening kit, but peeling off the dots leaves a sticky residue, or worse, top layer of paper rips off completely leaving the adhesive layer behind. No more stealing cheap Amazon.com colored dot stickers from my kids art supplies...

[TheRuttmeister]

On clean dry air:

There are lots of options for in-line filters, ones that will filter dirt down to silly sizes (like, they will filter out viruses) plus oil and water. If your compressor allows it, its even better to put them in between the actual pump and the tank, that way your tank doesn't get full of water.
Just get those. Dirty air would ruin everything.

And air temp should only be a problem if you are really working your compressor really really hard, remember that the air cools as its being uncompressed!
Although I don't paint cars, so I'll defer to others if they disagree.

[Ishley]

I paint the inside of both panels… then use a sharpie to mark all the welds… and use a small 1/2 belt sander and sand the spots. It’s how I did it.

[rhodyguy]

What is the continuous duty cycle pressure for your comp?

[pencap914]

What is the continuous duty cycle pressure for your comp?

I'm not sure actually, Its a Husky 60-gallon single stage compressor with a single phase 240v motor with a thermal overload switch. From my experience running mostly body saws, impact guns, sanders and die grinders I've never had it "thermal out."

I think its rated for 11.5 CFM @ 90psi...?

[pencap914]

Finally got the shell dropped off at the media blasting place! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Now freeing up garage space to finish the engine test stand, and hopefully get this thing fired up and ready to go by the time it gets back. (~2 months).

There will be a few patches that will be needed but I don't expect anything big. Mostly in the driver side door there was a rust hole on the bottom front corner that will need repair. Lucky its in a spot that's inconspicuous.

Now to research what undercoating I want to use... I'm in between the three following products:

• 3M Dynatron Dyna-pro 544
• Wurth SKS
• LizardSkin

Felt cute, had to add the tail lights. This makes me want to build a single seat open-wheel racer from tube steel (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[mepstein]

I’m using lizard skin. I’m not sure it’s the best but it’s the one I’ve chosen. I’m also using it inside the cabin for sound and temp control. The guys at my shop have used it before and it’s easy to diy. It can be painted which I intend to do.

[pencap914]

While the car is off to media blast/epoxy primer, I'm doing some of the plumbing. I noticed the pre-bent oil pipe from Patrick Motorsports hangs too low to be used with Ben's heat exchangers. Hopefully they allow returns on this thing, since it cost quite a bit.

I did acquire a pre-bent oil pipe from another member here, which I believe this is Ben's work, but upon bolting it up I noticed it contacts the heat exchangers. I can't move this up any further, since its already in contact with the oil return tube between cylinder 2-3.

Anyone running this setup of the pre-bent stainless hard line with Ben's heat exchangers?

Patrick Motorsports oil pipe:


Stainless pre-bent oil pipe:

[pencap914]

Some overdue progress photos from summer:

Biggest milestones: Picked up the shell from the media blast/primer guy in Sacramento, and got the engine fired up on the test stand.

Next steps will be doing minor repairs to the shell fixing the little "surprises" as result of the media blasting and tuning the engine.

I'm only a few years behind schedule at this point but at least progress is being made. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)






Sitting next to the other vehicle that competes for my attention. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBpemDWBFeE

[Cairo94507]

Excellent progress. It just takes time but you will be there soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Montreal914]

Very nice progress!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Did you resolve the oil line routing issue?

Thanks for sharing!

[pencap914]

Did you resolve the oil line routing issue?

I think so, the stainless one I believe was fabricated by Ben himself so it fits with his heat exchangers by a hair. So far I don't have any leaks from this return pipe to the oil filter. only leaks I have are the suction line/oil tank interface, currently sealed with an aluminum crush washer and one of the valve covers is leaking.

When I get the engine tin powder coated/installed and the heater hoses temporarily blocked off I'll feel confident enough to run the engine for extended periods of time to get the tuning dialed in. But until all that happens, back to the boredom of fixing little pinholes in the unibody.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[pencap914]

Hi all, its been a while.

Finally got to fix all the pinholes uncovered by the media blasting. Not a lot, just time consuming work making patch panels now getting the car prepared for undercoating.

I've decided on using RaptorLiner truck bed liner, then use a clear coat over it. However before I begin that, wondering what to do about the extra lip inside the steel fenders. My two options it seems are to either trim or to roll them.

Leaning towards the trim option but would like to see what others have done.

If I were to roll it, can you just do it cold? What are the techniques for rolling the fender lip?

Thanks,

-Glenn

[tygaboy]

Have you fit your wheels and tires so you know what clearance you have or need?
I have 9" x 16" with a 13 offset so these sit 2 mm farther outboard than a 9" Fuchs and I opted to trim mine.
Not the greatest pic but you get the idea.

[mate914]

I’m using lizard skin. I’m not sure it’s the best but it’s the one I’ve chosen. I’m also using it inside the cabin for sound and temp control. The guys at my shop have used it before and it’s easy to diy. It can be painted which I intend to do.

I did the same thing with the Wurth stuff. Sound level is way down.
Matt