Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
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Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
76-914 |
Jun 28 2020, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,483 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Jul 7 2020, 09:38 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,483 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Round 4; I was able to steal away for 2 hours this afternoon so I began assembly of the hard mounts themselves. Remember these pieces? It's time to use some of them.
First I rotate the engine so it's bottom side up with the factory rubber mounts installed. Then level it. If you've a cheap HF engine stand like mine you'll do well to check for level often. I placed the angle finder on the oil pan and also the engine case to confirm the oil pan was not out of whack. The afternoon sun was glaring in case you're wondering about the popcorn box. Next attach the 4x3 plates that were drilled to match the rubber mounts. Now take one side of the plate that was drilled with 2-1.5" holes and split it between the holes. Now you have 2 pieces that have 2 "U's" if you will. Take one of those measure down 3/4" from the lowest point of the "U" and cut it down to size. After this you can split this piece down the middle. You now have 2-1.5" wide "U' tabs that are appx 1.5" tall @ the highest point and 3/4" tall if you measure to the bottom of the "U". These are the short inner pieces that will support the cross bar. There will be 2 longer pieces and they will tie into the shorter pieces w/ some 3/16" but I'm getting ahead of myself. Looking at the 1st pic below you will see I used some magnets to support these short "U" shaped tabs. I located the tabs so they line up with one edge of the rubber mount so the support is above the mount and not past it. I didn't want the load outside the area of the mount. I used a finish nail to hold the tab vertical. The tab is placed 3/16" away from the edge of the 4x3 plate to allow for the piece of 3/16" I mentioned above. I repeated this step on the other side but when I place the crossbar in the tabs the left side was slightly higher than the right one. This can be expected unless your making these tabs on a mill. But the fix is simple. I ground this tab with a slight angle and lowered the nail a hair which brought the bar back to level. Next check for level at the engine and crossbar then a couple of spot welds and check for level again. to be continued................. |
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