Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
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Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
76-914 |
Jun 28 2020, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,455 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Jul 8 2020, 03:29 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,455 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
OK, things are fixing to get wordy so bare with me. In this next part we are going to cut the longer U tabs to length, tack them in place then cut the piece that will eventually tie the U tabs together. I'm going to throw a lot of pics at you in hopes it will answer any unanswered questions. If your long U tabs don't end up exactly like mine, so be it. What is important here is that all four U tabs contact the crossbar and the crossbar remains level, i.e. square to the engine. Other than that it's just aesthetics. In this 1st pic the piece isn't split vertically yet because we're determining where to cut it. And both pieces should be the same length. Again I use magnets to hold the pieces. If you don't see it, it is on the other side.
[attachmentid=752025 This is how I determined the height. The flat of this caliper happened to be the correct width so this is what I used to determine the cut line or height of the U tab. I held it level and at the spot I want the inner edge of the U tab to be then marked the tab and the caliper. LOL. It's a cheap tool anyway. Then I cut it on the mark and split the piece giving me 2 equal length U tabs. The same process was used for the shorter U tabs. Now with the crossbar sitting in the 2 tacked U tabs position the longer tabs so they contact the bar and plate. Don't get it too close to the nut that you will need to wrench on later. Other than that it won't matter the exact location. Or whether it is square with the other tabs. Once these are positioned go ahead and tack them in place. We're not tacking the crossbar in place yet. That's the next to last step. Remove the bar and mounts from the engine and complete welding the tabs to the plate. Avoid getting any buildup in that 3/16" area or you'll need to bring it down. I forgot to mention to check that the crossbar still contacts all 4 tabs and is level before completing the welds on the tabs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) And while I'm at it I should mention that these dimples on the backside of the plates are to allow a flush fit with the mount since there are these protruding rivet heads. Attached image(s) |
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