Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
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Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
76-914 |
Jun 28 2020, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Sep 16 2020, 05:37 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,490 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Sorry I'm late getting back to you @rmarx . Just got back yesterday from a 2000 mile trip to CO and back. I'll be using the 914 shafts with one 914 CV joint and one Subaru CV on each shaft. I cut the shaft down to the length I want then send them to Dutchman Axle (503-257-6604) to have the cut end re-splined for the Subaru CV. I should be detailing that sometime next week.
Now back to the pedal cluster conversion. First remove the roll pin from the clutch pedal. Then slide the shaft out and remove the return spring from the shaft. It is on the opposite end of the shaft from the roll pin. Now reassemble the shaft and re-insert the roll pin. This is where I differ from the last build. I am using the OEM fork and clip that previously attached to the clutch cable. Pictured below is the bolt I welded to the Honda master cylinder push rod. I determined where to cut the push rod by threading the bolt into the fork leaving myself room to adjust to or fro.I them drilled a very shallow hole in the head of the bolt and inserted the cut end of the push rod. Next I cut the spot welds on the 2 bolts that are attached to the cluster which the brake master cylinder bolts to. They are too short once the adapter plate is added. There are 2 spot welds on each bolt. Using a Dremel tool you only need to cut the the better part of one spot weld on each bolt. Then place an old socket over the bolt head and squeeze it in a vise until the other spot weld pops. Sometimes you can hammer them out but it's easier with a vise. Replace the old ones with new bolts that are 12-14mm longer than the old ones. Finally you need to trim the accelerator pivot arm for clearance. See pic below. Attached image(s) |
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