Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
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Re-Conversion of a '70 914, Patching that Big V8 radiator cutout pt. 1 |
76-914 |
Jun 28 2020, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,482 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
The engine is sold. I'll soon have a very fresh 901 w/ an "H" gear for sale as well as some other goodies soon for those planning an SBC conversion. I couldn't do much with this sitting in my garage as it already is stuffed to the max. Therefor I felt it somewhat necessary to sell this before commencing with the re-conversion. I've been silently (yeh, I know; me silent) working in the background for a few months fabricating some items that will be needed. I'll do my best to document things a bit more accurately than the previous conversion. Once again I'll be using the Subaru 6 and Subaru transmission. I've had tremendous success with this platform so I might as well repeat myself. So sit back, bear with me and watch as I stumble along and occasionally embarrass myself. Mistakes are an integral part of my journey. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Oct 26 2020, 09:23 PM
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#2
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,482 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
I thought I should post this for any of you guys that need to cut down your 1/2 shafts for re-fitting to the Subaru TY75 series 5MT. This applies only to the transmissions with the male output stub. . This method of measurement is for applications where the centers of the transmission stub and wheel bearing are lined up vertically & horizontally. If your application is not centered a simple right angle trig calc will give you the exact difference but it ain't going to amount to squat unless you have >3" variance. I do not recommend a common tape measurer for this job. I used a std 6' rule since it won't flex and has the sliding brass rule for inside measurements. Look at the 1st pic below and you will see I use the bearing to measure from. Notice I'm not measuring against the red rubber seal either. I was going to use the edge of the circular part of the drop arm but I found a difference between my '73 and this '70 model. The one pictured is my '70 but my '73 has a raised edge. I figure the metal side of the bearing is the only constant so this is what I measured off.
Now measure the exact distance to the end of the output stub. You can see why I like this "old school" 6' rule in this pic. Once you have this measurement subtract 1/8" for fitting clearance and then subtract another 2 3/8". Or more simply stated where X = distance between bearing and stub; X - 2.5" = desired length of half shaft. You can see resulting clearance when installing the assembled half shaft in the pic below. About 1/8" and this is with both CV's compressed in as far as they will go. Once assembled you should be able to slide the 1/2 shaft ~1" side to side. ****NOTE**** Don't assume both side are equal. Measure both sides. Ask me how I know. I made this mistake 6 years ago. I've used Dutchman Motor Sports for both cars and their price has only increased $5 in the past 6 years. Contact there is Travis. They will need the male stub off of a Subaru 1/2 shaft, the female Spyder or broach off your Subaru CV and your cut to length 914 half shafts. And a payment of ~$175.00. Dutchman Motor Sports 1250 E. Piper Ct. Meridian, ID 83642 (503) 257-6604 And a few more pics just to take up space. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) To be continued................. |
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