Heat shed, what am I missing to cool her down?, *Update - 1st Test Run after cleanup - still HOT Options

[nditiz1]

Update - pass side tin removed. Signs of leakage.

*Update* - Webers were successful in scooting the teener down the road, but head temps still reached 400, engine drop to follow shortly.

Stock 2.0 Engine
Converted to carbs - (Dual 40 Dells - 60 Idle jet)
Engine tin in place - needs seal on the passenger side
Thermostat - dead/expanded - flaps auto spring to full open
Valves set .006/.008
Timing 28 - New Pertronix SVDA - vac plugged when timed to 28
No AFR setup - want to say rich not lean
New plugs NGK B6ES gapped to .028
*Updated info based on comments*
Oil pressure when hot 40 PSI at 4k - so looks ok
Oil currently in the block unknown - dark lol, but within the min and max marks
Targa was on during test run
Deflection flaps present
Cooling fan has 1 broken fin
CHT gauge is Dakota Digital under cyl#3 spark plug
Engine lid is currently off - is this a major cause for the issues? - found the posts where this is not an issue
Dealer installed AC - Box and grate still in place - is this robbing the cool air from under the car at speed?


Running oil temp 240/250F 85F ambient temp
Head temps in 4th on flat cruising at 65 mph at 4k RPM - *400 and climbing if going up a hill
Head temps in 3rd up and down hills *395, but can hit 400 if I get on it just a little

Compression test was

Cyl #1 - 135
Cyl #2 - 135
Cyl #3 - 130 - CHT temp sensor
Cyl #4 - 135

Assuming the carbs are not lean (went 3 turns out, and now went to 4) what should I check next? I thought maybe I needed a rebuild since the compression numbers cold were around 125 with with a 12 psi gap between 2 of the cylinders, but this warm compression check looks healthy.

The plugs do look a little white, but the last run I did was in the garage with it running at idle and some briefs to 3500 RPM to ensure the timing was correct. I know this is not to preferred method to check plugs as they should be done driving regularly and then shut off the engine and not let it idle to get a true reading. I have a gas tester I can maybe hook up to check the CO2 at the tail pipe (yes, I should have an AFR to get better readings)

In the garage I was running at 350 head temp just at idle ambient temps 82. I know sitting has no air flow. I feel like when I rebuilt my last 2056, I could idle in the garage all day long at 300 or under.

Let's assume the carbs are rich enough in the mixture so as to not be lean, will the engine seals being tattered and 1 missing (most crucial side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ) be enough to make even back road driving push cyl 3 head temps to 400 and above?

Plugs - less than 50 miles - maybe not enough time
Cyl 1 and 2
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964487.1.jpg)

Cyl 3 and 4
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964488.2.jpg)