Heat shed, what am I missing to cool her down?, *Update - 1st Test Run after cleanup - still HOT |
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Heat shed, what am I missing to cool her down?, *Update - 1st Test Run after cleanup - still HOT |
nditiz1 |
Jul 5 2020, 09:41 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Update - pass side tin removed. Signs of leakage.
*Update* - Webers were successful in scooting the teener down the road, but head temps still reached 400, engine drop to follow shortly. Stock 2.0 Engine Converted to carbs - (Dual 40 Dells - 60 Idle jet) Engine tin in place - needs seal on the passenger side Thermostat - dead/expanded - flaps auto spring to full open Valves set .006/.008 Timing 28 - New Pertronix SVDA - vac plugged when timed to 28 No AFR setup - want to say rich not lean New plugs NGK B6ES gapped to .028 *Updated info based on comments* Oil pressure when hot 40 PSI at 4k - so looks ok Oil currently in the block unknown - dark lol, but within the min and max marks Targa was on during test run Deflection flaps present Cooling fan has 1 broken fin CHT gauge is Dakota Digital under cyl#3 spark plug Engine lid is currently off - Dealer installed AC - Box and grate still in place - is this robbing the cool air from under the car at speed? Running oil temp 240/250F 85F ambient temp Head temps in 4th on flat cruising at 65 mph at 4k RPM - *400 and climbing if going up a hill Head temps in 3rd up and down hills *395, but can hit 400 if I get on it just a little Compression test was Cyl #1 - 135 Cyl #2 - 135 Cyl #3 - 130 - CHT temp sensor Cyl #4 - 135 Assuming the carbs are not lean (went 3 turns out, and now went to 4) what should I check next? I thought maybe I needed a rebuild since the compression numbers cold were around 125 with with a 12 psi gap between 2 of the cylinders, but this warm compression check looks healthy. The plugs do look a little white, but the last run I did was in the garage with it running at idle and some briefs to 3500 RPM to ensure the timing was correct. I know this is not to preferred method to check plugs as they should be done driving regularly and then shut off the engine and not let it idle to get a true reading. I have a gas tester I can maybe hook up to check the CO2 at the tail pipe (yes, I should have an AFR to get better readings) In the garage I was running at 350 head temp just at idle ambient temps 82. I know sitting has no air flow. I feel like when I rebuilt my last 2056, I could idle in the garage all day long at 300 or under. Let's assume the carbs are rich enough in the mixture so as to not be lean, will the engine seals being tattered and 1 missing (most crucial side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ) be enough to make even back road driving push cyl 3 head temps to 400 and above? Plugs - less than 50 miles - maybe not enough time Cyl 1 and 2 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964487.1.jpg) Cyl 3 and 4 (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-18763-1593964488.2.jpg) |
Superhawk996 |
Jul 11 2020, 12:22 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,827 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Point of note:
Look at the oily residue between the head and the cylinder. Typically, this indicates a poor seal between the head and the cylinder. A leak at the cylinder to head interface not only leaks oil. It becomes a 4 leaks for the price of 1. Leaks air IN on the intake stroke, leaning out the fuel charge. Don't under estimate the potential of this leak to cause a lean condition. Leaks on the compression stroke Leaks on the power stroke Leaks on the exhaust stroke. Each is a matter of degree dependent on how major or minor the leak is. By the time you can see the oily / dirt build up, the leak is larger than you might think. Usually this oily film is worse on the bottom side due to gravity. The oil film and crud on any of the cooling fins impairs cooling. With respect to the oil cooler, you don't have a major blockage but that debris on the top will hurt cooling but probably isn't the source of your problems. When you look at any piece of screen, or an oil cooler, you would be amazed at how little "free area" there really is for the air to flow though. I'm also very curious about why the first photo shows the flap closed over the oil cooler. Unless the engine is hot, this flap should be raised when the engine is cool. In the 2nd photo it looks to me like you're having to use your finger to raise and hold the flap open to see the cooler. When the engine is cold the flap is raised (blocking flow to the cooler) for quick warm up. When the engine is hot, the flap closes across the top of the oil cooler and directs air flow though the cooler. Are your flaps hooked up correctly? If that engine is cold, it appears that they are operating backwards unless you have the thermostat disconnected and are in the fail-safe hot position all the time. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php? http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...112369&st=0[/url] |
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