Wax, sealer, or ?, How do you protect your paint? Options

[bbrock]

I can't remember the last time I waxed a car but I know it was before the days of clay bars, microfiber towels, and other wonders. The new paint on my teener has been curing since last fall and now I finally have a car that is wax worthy. I've been watching Youtube vids of crazy detailers talking about how to seal and protect paint and well... It's confusing. What do you all recommend?

[PanelBilly]

Driving it and having fun. Or you can lock it in the garage and keep it clean. I like Griots quick shine.

[infraredcalvin]

Lots of over the counter ceramic products out there now. I like the sealing properties and the bit of extra protection for the paint. Feels sooo smooth afterwards...

I’m using one called “the last coat” on my 2yo Daily. Got it upon recommendation of a friend with a flawless speed yellow paint ‘16 cayman, he’s had it about 3 mos, his car looks great. I put it on my car Last weekend after a through wash, clay bar, then isopropyl alcohol wipe down.

Brings out the new car luster, wish I would have done it when I bought the car, before the slight swirling showed up...

I’ll definitely use it on the race car next as the bug and rubber splatter is currently hard to get off...

[rstover]

I have been researching the same for wax. I ended up ordering several products from Meguiar"s. It is my understanding that they are owned by 3M. They offer many new and old products and some of the old products are for loyal customers that are used to a particular product. I have heard great things about the Black wax but it is on back order. 3M should have the knowledge to make the product as good as they want. I think it would be a good place to start.

[bbrock]

Good stuff! Keep 'em coming. A technique I saw on the Internets that intrigued me is to use both a ceramic sealer and a wax over the top. The claim is you get the hard, longer term durability of the ceramic sealer and also the warmer "classic" luster of the wax. Not sure how much time I want to spend maintaining wax though. Can't say I've missed it, but finally having a car I give a shit about after 35 years might change that. Hard to say.

[Porschef]

Try Collonite, got a very high rating from Practical Sailor years ago. I’ve been using it for years, last’s through numerous washings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Cairo94507]

I am thinking pure Carnauba wax for fresh paint?

[preach]

Wrap it in clear then wax.

Watching stones bounce off of my Caymans hood is almost stress free with the wrap on it and it still looks fantastic.

[Cairo94507]

Yes, all of my cars have clear bra film wrapping the entire hood, etc. I will do the 6 when it gets home. It's the only way I could drive it w/o being anxiety ridden. My S3 has 64K miles on it and the front end still looks like new. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[bbrock]

I like the clear bra idea. I'm assuming that is not a DIY project. Not sure I can find anyone around here I would trust to install.

[preach]

I am willing to bet you have the skills to do it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[StratPlayer]

P21S Can get it on amazon

[90quattrocoupe]

One of the problems I find with the newer products, is do they work on single stage paint?
Do the sealers make them shine?
Do you need to clay bar the paint before you use a sealer?
What product do you use to clean up the paint before?

etc. etc.

Greg W.

[infraredcalvin]

A proper finish detail is dependent on the condition of the paint. There is no one step fits all answer if you’re looking for the best results.

Clay bar is used to remove fine contaminants that a wash or hand polish won’t remove. It’s easier to control And safer than a machine polish, and should only be done if necessary as it does remove paint.

The sealer is to protect the work you do with polish or clay, it is the intermediate step, yes a sealer will provide a shine, but to get the miles deep shine a top coat of wax should be used as the final step.

Clear bras or vinyl should have a sealer coat before applying, if the paint finishes curing to the clear bra you’re going to damage the finish. You’d also better be sure you’ve got excellent paint adhesion.

Clear bra has its places, but I never understand how anyone who is so particular about paint shine depth clarity , etc could be happy with the final look of it.

[Cairo94507]

Yeah, that is certainly the trade off when you go with a clear-bra. But for me, in the SF Bay Area and the horrible roads and heavy traffic, it is a compromise I find necessary if I want to drive my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[bbrock]

I painted my car last fall. Left it to cure for 2 months before cut and polish where it has remained in the garage since. Never driven. Is there any point to clay barring the car before applying sealer in this case?

[infraredcalvin]

I would say no, but it’s up to look and feel. Detailing can be an art form. Everyone is going to have a different idea of what they’re looking for.

If you have decent paint on your daily driver, take a small spot on the hood, get a clay bar, saturate the area with a quick detail, wipe, then saturate again, use the clay bar, just normal hand pressure, nothing hard. Spend about 30 seconds to a min total. Wipe dry, and clean up any residue with the quick detail spray and clean cloth. Feel the finish with your fingers, back of hand, anything sensitive enough to notice how little if any contaminants are left on the paint. You’ll know when you feel it, it will feel smooth, soft and hydrated (for lack of better terms), if it feels rough or with little imperfections, try again. As long as your paint isn’t oxidized there should be very little difference visually, you’ll see crud on the clay.

The feel after the clayed paint is very noticeable, this is what you want to feel on your 914 paint, if so, then all you need is a good wax remover wipe down to start whatever process you want.

[Cairo94507]

I see no reason to clay a brand new paint job that has never been outside or driven. I mean you can run your hand over it inside of a plastic sandwich bag and feel if there are any contaminants on the paint. Remember if you have your garage door open or a neighbor is working on something, staining a fences, painting their home, etc., stuff can float into the garage and attach to the paint. So it never hurts to check.

I use this mitt to "clay" my cars and it is so easy it's a crime. One of the suppliers at the shop where my brother works, (we but all our detail/cleaning products from him) recommended this instead of clay. Having used the little clay bars I will never go back. I go over the paint and glass and it works great.

I recently detailed a 2014 WRX STI (friend's car) that has been abused since new and washed only when the dealership did it, with this mitt and the car came out like glass. A nice coat of wax and the car looked and felt brand new.

[Cairo94507]

back side of glove package:

[infraredcalvin]

Yeah, that is certainly the trade off when you go with a clear-bra. But for me, in the SF Bay Area and the horrible roads and heavy traffic, it is a compromise I find necessary if I want to drive my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(Edit, I quoted the wrong post, sorry)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

I absolutely understand, but it makes me cringe when I see guys, who feel a paint correctIon is necessary every 6 months, put that stuff on - defeats the purpose IMO.

I personally prefer the sandblasted patina on bumpers and valences... here’s my 930, she’ll get new paint sometime, but I‘ll enjoy the miles for now...