How much torque is too much?, Removing fan yoke Options

[ctc911ctc]

‘74 2.0 22k

While I wait for the dog teeth to be delivered, I thought I would change the seals (front and rear)



I built a tool for my wheel puller - have turned it to about 80 ft/lbs, kinda worried to crank it another turn,,,,,,

I am using penetrating oil on the shaft,,,,,,,,,what next?

Heat?

Incantations?

Ideas?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Heat.

A rap on the side of the hub while it's under tension from the puller often helps too. Use a soft face brass or copper hammer.

[ctc911ctc]

Super Hawk to the rescue!


Heat and hammer! Got to buy a brass one!

Thank You!

Heat.

A rap on the side of the hub while it's under tension from the puller often helps too. Use a soft face brass or copper hammer.

[ctc911ctc]

Lots of heat and hammer, no joy yet,,,, over night penetrating oil?

Super Hawk to the rescue!


Heat and hammer! Got to buy a brass one!

Thank You!

Heat.

A rap on the side of the hub while it's under tension from the puller often helps too. Use a soft face brass or copper hammer.

[pilothyer]

If you heat it up with a MAPP torch with it under that much pressure it will probably jump right off.

[ctc911ctc]

Ahhhhh

I only have a propane torch,,,,,, will keep trying

If you heat it up with a MAPP torch with it under that much pressure it will probably jump right off.

[mepstein]

Ahhhhh

I only have a propane torch,,,,,, will keep trying

If you heat it up with a MAPP torch with it under that much pressure it will probably jump right off.

It's really worth buying MAP. Less than $50 at the big box stores and you will find many uses for it.

[Superhawk996]

Ahhhhh

I only have a propane torch,,,,,, will keep trying

If you heat it up with a MAPP torch with it under that much pressure it will probably jump right off.

Part of the trick with MAPP or OxyAcetylene is that you can get lots of heat in the hub quicker than it can tranfer into the crankshaft. That expands the hub faster than the crank and loosens the taper fit.

Heating too slowly allows both parts to heat up at near the same rate and doesn't loosen the fit.

Way back when I really 1st getting into my 914 I bought a MAPP & Oxygen setup at K-Mart. Yup - Dinosaurs roamed the aisles. It was worth it's weight in gold for so many jobs. It was expensive to operate (Oxygen cylinders weren't cheap). But so worth it when I couldn't have even comprehended the cost of owning an oxy acetylene rig.

Was like this:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/b...azing-torch-kit

At a bare minimum run MAPP gas though your propane torch that alone is a decent upgrade in heat.

[porschetub]

No ,penetrating oil will have no effect on a taper,small amount of heat will knock it over however,when off check the puller hasn't damaged the centre bolt thread in the crank,if not sure run a tap down it ,good luck.

[porschetub]

X2 reply sorry.

[Jake Raby]

These can be tough. They are also getting rare to find in perfect condition, so trying not to damage the hub (or bend the ears) is a goal as well.
I have had good luck with placing a decent load on the 3 arm puller, and then using an air hammer to shock the hub. Heat with the MAPP gas can be added to this mix if necessary as well.

[ctc911ctc]

Is this the right setup for high and fast heat?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/too...979?store=08546

These can be tough. They are also getting rare to find in perfect condition, so trying not to damage the hub (or bend the ears) is a goal as well.
I have had good luck with placing a decent load on the 3 arm puller, and then using an air hammer to shock the hub. Heat with the MAPP gas can be added to this mix if necessary as well.

[ctc911ctc]

Yikes, I was thinking that I was pulling too hard and may have bent the ears.......sigh.....

I will report back as to the outcome.

Thank you,

These can be tough. They are also getting rare to find in perfect condition, so trying not to damage the hub (or bend the ears) is a goal as well.
I have had good luck with placing a decent load on the 3 arm puller, and then using an air hammer to shock the hub. Heat with the MAPP gas can be added to this mix if necessary as well.

[iankarr]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with the mapp torch. Two things...

1) when the hub does pop off, make sure you have a spotter in case the woodruff key launches with it. It's a super tiny crescent shaped piece of metal that goes into a notch in the crankshaft and the hub to "key" it. You can also spread a white sheet under the work area so it will be easier to find when it (inevitably) hits the floor.

2) I've had a lot of luck with the washer method of removing the hub... get 3 x very thick washers (like the ones used in the rear trans mounts) or small pieces of 10 ga. steel and put them under the ears, between the bottom of the bolt and the case. Screw the bolts in so that they're sandwiching the metal between the bolts and the case. Alternately tighten the bolts, leveraging against the metal until the hub pops off. Make sure the bolts are hitting just the metal, not the case. And that they're not bending the washers. Thicker the better.

PS. Be prepared...When it does pop, it WILL scare you!

[73-914]

Is this the right setup for high and fast heat?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/too...979?store=08546

These can be tough. They are also getting rare to find in perfect condition, so trying not to damage the hub (or bend the ears) is a goal as well.
I have had good luck with placing a decent load on the 3 arm puller, and then using an air hammer to shock the hub. Heat with the MAPP gas can be added to this mix if necessary as well.

Yes it is

[76-914]

You don't need to buy a torch, just a bottle of MAP gas. Your old propane torch will work just fine on a bottle of MAP.

[bretth]

I have not done this yet myself, but when hitting it with a hammer try backing the opposite side up with another (stationary) hammer to keep the impact concentrated on the hub. Works good on tapered ball joints except I would not hit this as hard as I would a ball joint. Good luck.

[Frankvw]

I also had the same issue on my type4 2.0L bus engine
It just would not come off. several pullers, and finally I left it 'under pressure' from the puller and while I was thinking how on earth to get it off...it came off by itself.
It scared the crap out of me, I had no idea what happened and I did not expect a bang like this. Hope it works out for you ...can be very frustrating indeed !

[ctc911ctc]

Buying MAPP gas now, I do not need O2 as in the picture? As in the link in my last post?

[Superhawk996]

Buying MAPP gas now, I do not need O2 as in the picture? As in the link in my last post?

Sort of depends on your budget. If money is no object, I'd say get an OxyAcetylene rig - even if only one of the really small portable ones plumbers use. Sometimes I wonder how I ever lived without the fire wrench. But then you're screwed trying to get cylinders filled on a Sunday.


The MAPP / Oxy set up is sort of the middle ground but comes with its own disadvantages. Costly to operate (an oxygen cyclinder doesn't last long), not great for welding due to higher hydrogen content that can lead to hydrogen embrittlement.


Similarly, on the budget conscious end, MAPP gas only is a good upgrade to propane. If you heat it with MAPP gas, have some tension on it, and use the dual hammer technique or air hammer as suggested above that is a reasonable approach.

Since your just in the middle and trying to get it done, I think starting with MAPP only is a reasonable approach.