Product review: Rothsport oil check valve, For the /6 owners Options

[Mark Henry]

Every winter or anytime I didn't drive my 914/6 conversion for more then 2-3 weeks my oil tank would drain down into my sump. Often this would result in oil on the shop floor and the neighbors would call the EPA or fire department when I started my 914 in the spring.
I was on the fence on buying a Rothsport oil check valve then a generous member here offered me one for free (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Story was he bought one, never looked at it and tossed it into his parts bin, only to find out he accidentally bought two. He said I've helped him out a lot over the years and he was just playing it forward.
So a big shout out to Mark, member mzapisek, Thank you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

So this isn't a just got the package in the mail and it "looks" like it works great worthless review. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
I've had this in 914 for almost 4 months and I've been driving at least every 2nd day for the last 3 months.
This one is actually the wrong hose size for a 914, but that didn't matter to me as my conversion uses non stock (NPT) adapters. I made new adapters, bought a new late 911 S hose and cut it to fit. But only the check valve nipple size is different, the body and the valve size is still the same. For a stock feed line 914/6 get the smaller nipples, For -AN hose you will have to make adaptors for the check valves metic sized nipples. The valve is a unique cone mounted to a bronze bushed shaft. I can't see any way it could fail, and if it did it would be in the open position.
To install you cut 1-1/2" out of the hose and use the supplied ABA clamps torqued to 35 inch pounds. The big tank/engine printing on the valve make proper orientation foolproof. I bought 2 extra clamps from Belmetric for my S hose adapters and BTW these are NOT the common cheap hose clamps.

Once installed I filled the tank with 10 liters of oil, checked the level and then the car sat for 3-4 weeks. The oil level never moved.
Driving it has made no difference, on startup I have instant oil pressure exactly the same as before.

I lie... it made one huge difference, I no longer have to run the engine to check the oil!
Of course I quad-triple checked this both ways till I was confident, when running it shows about a 1/4 dipstick fuller than when it's not, but it does this repeatedly. It's so nice to be able to check my oil before starting the teen, especially when I'm in good clothes.

So out of 10 I'd give the Rothsport oil check valve a 9.5/10 losing a half point to price. Since I'm a CSOB it would lose a full point, but I'm so happy with the oil check improvement I gave it a half point back.
Included with the valve is 2 ABA hose clamps.
Yes, I recommend this product.

https://www.rothsport.com/Products/Engine/O...heck-Valves.htm

[Mark Henry]

BTW the 3rd pic you can see the oil plug in my line for draining the oil tank
Keep in mind you have to have the drain before the oil check valve, or it won't drain the tank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[9146C]

Mark,

Thanks for the review! Although I don't have any issues (yet) with oil seeping through the pump, I was thinking about adding this valve when I re-install my 2.7L (currently working on a rustoration project).

I was wondering if you'd be willing to share additional information on the oil drain plug you added for the tank?

Thanks in advance!
Rob

[Superhawk996]

Mark thanks for posting. Sure sounds good and way better than the alternative check valve and the associated Remove Before Flight tag that you were joking about previously.

For me I'm a long way from getting a six installed into my car but glad to know this check valve works in case I need the option as I work toward that goal.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Lucky9146]

Thanks Mark for the review it is something I need to do, although I have not had issues yet I certainly may, and I sure wish I'd have put a drain in when I built it. Will do that too!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)

[gereed75]

Thanks for the review. I’ve been putting off the installation of mine. I had planned to put it in the same place as yours as opposed to the other leg of the 90. Thanks for the confirmation.

Never thought of the ability to check oil without running the car...nice!

[Mark Henry]

Thanks for the review. I’ve been putting off the installation of mine. I had planned to put it in the same place as yours as opposed to the other leg of the 90. Thanks for the confirmation.

Never thought of the ability to check oil without running the car...nice!

Drain or no drain you definitely want it closer to the cooler, if you placed it closer to the tank you will run into a huge PITA draining the oil from the tank.

To me being able to check the oil without it running is a huge bonus.

Mark,

Thanks for the review! Although I don't have any issues (yet) with oil seeping through the pump, I was thinking about adding this valve when I re-install my 2.7L (currently working on a rustoration project).

I was wondering if you'd be willing to share additional information on the oil drain plug you added for the tank?

Thanks in advance!
Rob

This is a 50/50 issue, some have never had this problem or drive their car weekly year round. Often these guys think there is no problem.

Some like me have a mystery leak, not a drop of oil on the ground all season but a good puddle after about a month of storage. Others get hydro locked and have to pull a couple spark plugs (often # 5 and 6) to drain and many have the 3 alarm smoke screen the first start of each spring.
As an engine builder I don't see starting an engine with a case right full of oil as a good thing for the seals, etc.
BTW before starting this job I dumped my oil, I only had a liter (quart) or so in the tank, the engine sump had at least 7 quarts in it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

The oil drain is a large stainless steel NPT T- fitting, IIRC it was a 3/4NPT with a 3/8NPT leg. I TIG welded a metric male fitting to one end to and it now has a nipple I made and TIG welded on the other end for the S hose. I then drilled it through so that it had a bigger, smoother bore.
The drain plug is a 3/8 NPT pipe plug, in hindsight I should have used a 1/2"NPT and a EZ drain, but if it works why fix it.

Maybe I should get together with Ben and offer the drain as a hose kit? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[gereed75]

I drilled and tapped M6 threads into a flare on the union between the tank hose and the cooler hose. This fitting is right at the “hook”. I use a short bolt with a copper washer as a drain plug. Works great

I get a lot of oil in the case after 2-3 days. Usually when I drain oil 2/3’s is in the case. PITA.

[horizontally-opposed]

This—and that drain plug—are very appealing. As is the ability to check the oil without starting the engine.

Thanks for taking the time to let us know about your experiences... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

Any reason one of these would not work? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
https://www.amazon.com/AIICIOO-Swing-Check-...sr=8-8&th=1

[mepstein]

I drilled and tapped M6 threads into a flare on the union between the tank hose and the cooler hose. This fitting is right at the “hook”. I use a short bolt with a copper washer as a drain plug. Works great

I get a lot of oil in the case after 2-3 days. Usually when I drain oil 2/3’s is in the case. PITA.

I got an earful from a Porsche race car tech about safety wiring my drain plug. Otherwise, you could lose all your oil in seconds and not know it until it's too late.

[Johny Blackstain]

Thanks for this brilliant info, much appreciated Mark (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ConeDodger]

And the EPA? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) still got big smoke startups after sitting a few days?

[horizontally-opposed]

Maybe I should get together with Ben and offer the drain as a hose kit? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

I'd want to add the check valve at the same time. Your point about 7 quarts in the case is a very good one. Rothsport piece looks pretty, but it had better for $300. I'd want that reliability, but would actually prefer something that looks more like the rest of the stuff one finds in a Porsche. Wonder if there is something that does the same thing, as reliably, for less? Then again, maybe $300 isn't crazy considering the cost of it going wrong.

[mepstein]

Maybe I should get together with Ben and offer the drain as a hose kit? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

I'd want to add the check valve at the same time. Your point about 7 quarts in the case is a very good one. Rothsport piece looks pretty, but it had better for $300. I'd want that reliability, but would actually prefer something that looks more like the rest of the stuff one finds in a Porsche. Wonder if there is something that does the same thing, as reliably, for less? Then again, maybe $300 isn't crazy considering the cost of it going wrong.

Same discussion on Pelican. "why so much". I don't think anyone had a real solution and most people don't want to experiment on their $10-20K +++ engine.

[ClayPerrine]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I am considering one of these for my big six. I started it up yesterday afternoon and I was scared the neighbors were going to call the fire department due to all the smoke.

Plus, the suction host is just a tad bit too tight on the line hook. One of the check valves would extend it to about the right length.

I am thinking the early 911 one would work for a 914-6.

Clay

[Mark Henry]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I am considering one of these for my big six. I started it up yesterday afternoon and I was scared the neighbors were going to call the fire department due to all the smoke.

Plus, the suction host is just a tad bit too tight on the line hook. One of the check valves would extend it to about the right length.

I am thinking the early 911 one would work for a 914-6.

Clay

Yes if you own a real /6 or a conversion with OE /6 hose you want the early 911 oil check valve with the correct smaller 22mm ID hose size.

FYI the valve mechanism and body itself is the same size for both versions, just the nipples are either small or large. You can see this if you look at both sizes.

[Mark Henry]

Question I just got asked below in PM.
Be aware my return hose is NOT the correct 914/6 size. It is all custom, or a hack if you like and uses the later and much bigger 911 S-hose.

Mark,

I am in the process of getting everything purchased and setup for my 6 conversion. Can you tell me what your configuration was from the tank to the oil cooler? I know you just posted about the check valve. What size AN fittings are you running? Where did you place the drain valve?

Thanks
Nick

Not much of mine you can buy off the shelf, other than the parts I bought to custom fab new parts from.
Not worth it unless you have a welder, lathe, etc. and a bunch of free time.

-I have a new DWD tank sort of like Ben's (mb911) tank, that I bought off of a member.
-2 short bits of 911 OE cohline hose spiced together, this is my tank down hose.
-J-hook I made from 1/8th" steel.
-The T fitting I re-fabricated an NPT T-fitting with a OE cohline male one end and OE size S-hose male nipple the other end all TIG welded, lathe re-drilled, etc.
-new 911 S-hose, cut for new app with the Rothsport valve spliced in.

-The cooler I TIG welded on a 1" NPT female aluminum 90-elbow, originally for farm/HE gas pumping hose, the type of refueling tanks you see in the back of pick up trucks.
-it has a male 1"NPT nipple fitting that I cut, welded to build up the new S-hose barb and then turned on a lathe.

I only have about $100 into my return hose and cooler (not including the tank or check valve), but that's not counting time, tools and some of the hose parts I had.

[ClayPerrine]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I am considering one of these for my big six. I started it up yesterday afternoon and I was scared the neighbors were going to call the fire department due to all the smoke.

Plus, the suction host is just a tad bit too tight on the line hook. One of the check valves would extend it to about the right length.

I am thinking the early 911 one would work for a 914-6.

Clay

Yes if you own a real /6 or a conversion with OE /6 hose you want the early 911 oil check valve with the correct smaller 22mm ID hose size.

FYI the valve mechanism and body itself is the same size for both versions, just the nipples are either small or large. You can see this if you look at both sizes.

I looked at the pictures online. The valves are not threaded... so you have to cut the hose and install the valve in the middle of the hose?

Clay

[JmuRiz]

Lucky duck getting one for free.
I was thinking about getting one too, the price is eye-watering for what it is..but it's the only option I'm aware of.

Love your drain solution too....any chance we can get a special hose kit with the check valve and a drain point built-in/package deal? I'd be game for that.