914/6 split oil cooler in fog lamp openings? Options

[Tdskip]

Saw this mentioned on a past thread, obviously saves cutting the trunk.

Anyone running this?

[mb911]

Saw this mentioned on a past thread, obviously saves cutting the trunk.

Anyone running this?

You still have to get hoses there somehow so cutting will be required somewhere.

[mepstein]

I saw it done on a conversion car. Owner said it worked but not great. His opinion was air was hitting the cooler while driving but not flowing through the cooler very efficiency. It also didn’t have room for a fan pack so not a lot of help when the car was still. So all the expense of a front cooler but half the benefit.

[brant]

I run twin front coolers through the fog grills
I cut a lot of the front trunk away to make the proper ducting... to make them work
I don't think they would be very effective without the proper ducting

Brad used to run really tiny twin coolers outside of the chassis/behind the 75 (larger) style front bumper

that worked for him on a 2liter/4 autox car
but he was unable to cut exits in the chassis to improve the efficiency per rules

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=19706

[Cairo94507]

I ran 2 VW coolers, one behind each fog light grill on my 2nd 914-6. I had a 3.0 in that car and it never got hot. I ran SS lines down the passenger side long to the turbo thermostat. Never had a problem. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Tdskip]

@Cairo94507 - it was your comment/car I was thinking about, wanted to leave it for you to "out" yourself.

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Montreal914]

Going through the same mental debate... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The two access ports on the back or the frunk floor could be opened up easily, then the round plug on the front of the car. So we now have an in and out without any cutting.

Yes, we will need to bring the lines in somewhere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

And on top of that, I also want to have a spare and a normal size frunk. So that will be a challenge without cutting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have a 986/996 spare which is very slim. I also have a collapsible spare as another option. Smaller diameter but much wider than the 986/996 wheel.

Then another idea to reduce the size of the spare and give more room would be to get a cheap 4 1/2" Fachs and install a Honda Civic donut. That will reduce width and diameter. Not perfect as a spare but how often do you use it and for how far...

There was someone else who installed a couple of small coolers in the frunk under the front horizontal arched reinforcement. That was a long time ago and I search through all of his post but never saw more pictures.

Then Trekkor has another option where his cooler is laying against the lower back side of the frunk. He did make three holes to vent out in the rack and pinion area.

Very few non cutting options... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[brant]

Going through the same mental debate... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The two access ports on the back or the frunk floor could be opened up easily, then the round plug on the front of the car. So we now have an in and out without any cutting.

Yes, we will need to bring the lines in somewhere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

And on top of that, I also want to have a spare and a normal size frunk. So that will be a challenge without cutting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have a 986/996 spare which is very slim. I also have a collapsible spare as another option. Smaller diameter but much wider than the 986/996 wheel.

Then another idea to reduce the size of the spare and give more room would be to get a cheap 4 1/2" Fachs and install a Honda Civic donut. That will reduce width and diameter. Not perfect as a spare but how often do you use it and for how far...

There was someone else who installed a couple of small coolers in the frunk under the front horizontal arched reinforcement. That was a long time ago and I search through all of his post but never saw more pictures.

Then Trekkor has another option where his cooler is laying against the lower back side of the frunk. He did make three holes to vent out in the rack and pinion area.

Very few non cutting options... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Ideally you want your exit to be 2x the volume of the cooler intake
the air expands after it warms up from passing through the cooler
so any cooler will be more efficient with a larger exit

[Chris914n6]

^^ I don't remember the actual measurement but is +20% or so, not 2x.

I use the grilles as air inlets for my rad. Definitely not deep enough for coolers to work well behind them. I think part of the cooling for that one guy was in the hoses. My water lines under the car is good for 10F just by themselves.

[DiabloNero]

I remember seeing a car for sale with twin oil coolers about ten years ago

[mepstein]

Going through the same mental debate... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The two access ports on the back or the frunk floor could be opened up easily, then the round plug on the front of the car. So we now have an in and out without any cutting.

Yes, we will need to bring the lines in somewhere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

And on top of that, I also want to have a spare and a normal size frunk. So that will be a challenge without cutting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have a 986/996 spare which is very slim. I also have a collapsible spare as another option. Smaller diameter but much wider than the 986/996 wheel.

Then another idea to reduce the size of the spare and give more room would be to get a cheap 4 1/2" Fachs and install a Honda Civic donut. That will reduce width and diameter. Not perfect as a spare but how often do you use it and for how far...

There was someone else who installed a couple of small coolers in the frunk under the front horizontal arched reinforcement. That was a long time ago and I search through all of his post but never saw more pictures.

Then Trekkor has another option where his cooler is laying against the lower back side of the frunk. He did make three holes to vent out in the rack and pinion area.

Very few non cutting options... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

The two access ports on the back or the frunk floor could be opened up easily, then the round plug on the front of the car. So we now have an in and out without any cutting.

That’s what I did on my 3.2. Ran the lines up the Kong’s, one on each side, over the inner front wheel well, 1” hole into the front trunk and through the hole in the headlight support. The rear plugs are just held in with seam sealer. I bought a pretty large setrab 20 row cooler with a fan pack and a 180 degree switch to turn on the fan. I bypassed the engine mounted cooler so this is the only oil cooler for the car. Works great.

[pvollma]

Saw this mentioned on a past thread, obviously saves cutting the trunk.

Anyone running this?

I ran this setup on my SCCA GT3 car in Texas in the late 80's-early 90's. This was still a street-legal car (turn signal assembly removed and screens added when racing), the engine was carbed and cammed.



If you want a chuckle, this is the oil cooler location when I bought the car:

[Tdskip]

Wonder how effective the two front fog lamp set up is compared to an under the trunk set up?

I'd imagine the longer oil line run to/from the front mounted set ups are worth some non-trivial cooling themselves.

[rgalla9146]

Going through the same mental debate... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

The two access ports on the back or the frunk floor could be opened up easily, then the round plug on the front of the car. So we now have an in and out without any cutting.

Yes, we will need to bring the lines in somewhere. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

And on top of that, I also want to have a spare and a normal size frunk. So that will be a challenge without cutting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I have a 986/996 spare which is very slim. I also have a collapsible spare as another option. Smaller diameter but much wider than the 986/996 wheel.

Then another idea to reduce the size of the spare and give more room would be to get a cheap 4 1/2" Fachs and install a Honda Civic donut. That will reduce width and diameter. Not perfect as a spare but how often do you use it and for how far...

There was someone else who installed a couple of small coolers in the frunk under the front horizontal arched reinforcement. That was a long time ago and I search through all of his post but never saw more pictures.

Then Trekkor has another option where his cooler is laying against the lower back side of the frunk. He did make three holes to vent out in the rack and pinion area.

Very few non cutting options... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Ideally you want your exit to be 2x the volume of the cooler intake
the air expands after it warms up from passing through the cooler
so any cooler will be more efficient with a larger exit

^^^^ I agree
It's not easy to provide adequate exit ducting.
This was fabricated gettting as close as possible to that ratio.

[pvollma]

^^^^ I agree
It's not easy to provide adequate exit ducting.
This was fabricated gettting as close as possible to that ratio.

While the topic was using the fog lamp openings for the oil coolers, I posted the picture of my 914 racer that used the turn signal openings instead, because that location alleviates the trunk intrusion and airflow problem. While I don't remember if we routed the oil line to the second cooler through the trunk or below or in front of it, there was no problem with airflow since it came in the turn signal opening and out the wheel well. Cooling was more than adequate for a race-tuned engine - even in the hot Texas summer and a 45 minute national race on a course (Texas World Speedway) with an average speed just under 90 mph, I was barely getting over 210 degrees.

The area of the frunk under the front horizontal arched reinforcement is an option I use on my current street 914:

Front oil cooler

[stownsen914]

I ran this setup on my SCCA GT3 car in Texas in the late 80's-early 90's. This was still a street-legal car (turn signal assembly removed and screens added when racing), the engine was carbed and cammed.

Very cool ... the old school way to race your Porsche.

[Cairo94507]

I located the pictures I had of my 2nd 914-6 with the split front coolers. This should have been around 1985.

[Cairo94507]

And, just for fun, I also found pics of my first 914-6 this was in 1982. Sorry for the poor color quality these are scans of old Polaroid pictures. The paint was flawless. Note the louvers on the engine lid to help cool the 2.7 CIS motor.

[rgalla9146]

And, just for fun, I also found pics of my first 914-6 this was in 1982. Sorry for the poor color quality these are scans of old Polaroid pictures. The paint was flawless. Note the louvers on the engine lid to help cool the 2.7 CIS motor.

Love this car, displays the clean uncluttered shape of our favorite.
A louvered engine lid ?
The classics never go out of style.