Looking for hell hole welding advice |
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Looking for hell hole welding advice |
AndrewBlyholder |
Aug 15 2020, 12:36 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 109 Joined: 20-September 04 From: Richmond, CA Member No.: 2,791 |
Launching in my hell hole rust repair. Need some advice on the usual welding technique for patching.
Many of the patch parts have flanges that match the factory stampings. I assume the factory spot welded these things together. Is that correct? Don't have a spot welder, and probably couldn't reach most of these locations if I did. What's the usual technique then? Drill holes in the flanges and fill with rosette welds? Or just weld the edges of the flanges? I'm replacing some sections of the main longitudinal tubes under the battery. That tube was a double walled on both the inside and outside faces. The replacement panel I have from AA has the double wall spot welded onto it. But how do I go about getting both panels weld together at the butt joint where the patch meets the original? Grind/cut the outer face back a little bit more than the inner panel, weld the inner first, and then weld up the outer? Battery tray replacement questions: - The lower support has three flanges on it. The front and side flange are easily accessible for welding, but the rear flange is turned inward. Do you weld that one too or leave it unwelded? What did the factory do there? - The easy way to attach the battery tray to the support would be to weld them together first. Is that recommended? But if you do that, then there would be no way to weld the inward turned rear flange of the support. Thanks for any and all suggestions. Andrew Blyholder |
Superhawk996 |
Aug 17 2020, 11:19 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,839 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Yup . . . you've got a project on your hands. Looks suspisciouly like what I started with.
You're off to a great start. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Depending on your goals, you may want to consider replacing that supension console. By the time you get to that level of cracking you already have a lot of work hardening and metal fatigue. You can weld one area but new cracks will form pretty quickly especially if you intend to autocross it again in the future. At a bare minimum check out Tangerine Racing. They make a doubler for the inboard ear of the console which is cheap and a quick weld-on affair. |
bbrock |
Aug 17 2020, 12:26 PM
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#3
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Depending on your goals, you may want to consider replacing that supension console. By the time you get to that level of cracking you already have a lot of work hardening and metal fatigue. You can weld one area but new cracks will form pretty quickly especially if you intend to autocross it again in the future. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I would be strongly inclined to replace those consoles, especially if you see 1.2 G in its future. It looks like one of them is even wrinkled which makes me wonder if the geometry is still in spec. |
brant |
Aug 17 2020, 01:02 PM
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#4
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,625 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Depending on your goals, you may want to consider replacing that supension console. By the time you get to that level of cracking you already have a lot of work hardening and metal fatigue. You can weld one area but new cracks will form pretty quickly especially if you intend to autocross it again in the future. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I would be strongly inclined to replace those consoles, especially if you see 1.2 G in its future. It looks like one of them is even wrinkled which makes me wonder if the geometry is still in spec. the crack repair introduced a lot of heat into the console. the metal will be more brittle now and I'd be worried about that console also brant |
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