Valve Train Geometry with Cam., Beating a dead horse. |
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Valve Train Geometry with Cam., Beating a dead horse. |
jaredmcginness |
Sep 8 2020, 01:14 PM
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#1
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... Group: Members Posts: 502 Joined: 12-June 19 From: Baltimore Member No.: 23,209 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Hey guys,
Making headway on my 1911 build (no pun intended). I have a few valve train questions. I've researched this a good bit the last few days and read a couple informative threads on here with some info (including one by @nditiz1 that went through a very similar issue) I am trying to not over complicate this, so my tiny brain can make sense. I was having an issue with my rockers, posted a photo of my heads on the 914world facebook group and got a great response from J. Raby with a lot of helpful info. It seems I bit off a bit more than I can chew with valve train geometry. (I understand he wrote a dissertation about Valve Geometry a number of years ago, but I cannot seem to find it.) It does not surprise me that the fella/shop who built my bottom end didn't go into too much detail about this. He basically laid the numbers out and said "If I have X amount of cam lift, we need to machine the heads for dual springs to achieve X amount of clearance. All there is too it." Maybe there is a bit more involved than that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Specs: -1911 (96x66mm) -51cc heads - fresh. -Scat c35 .495 Lift -Scat solid lifters -Scat dual HD springs, head machined. Recommended additional purchases by Jake: All available at Type4Store -911 Swivel Foot / Machine rockers .060 -Solid Spacer and shims. Byebye rocker spring. -8mm HD studs for strength. Question: With all of this added, it seems like the heads will be much more sound, and be able to handle the possibly over-sized lift on the cam. -I have seemingly completed a proper valve adjustment using the "Lobe per lobe" technique. (I.E. Intake 3 fully open, adjust opposite rockers on 1) I cannot find a lot of info on the right way to do an adjustment with a large cam. Thoughts? My TDC mark on the flywheel doesn't match up with the valves due to the ramp of this cam. (I think I understand that right) -Does this geometry affect my pushrods? They SEEM to be working fine at their length. Do I need "chromoly"? Is this for strength and + cut to size? I read all these threads on the Samba of guys running large cams with stock rods. (probably my engine builder posting that stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)) I would just like to do this right the first time. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1599592477.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1599592477.2.jpg) Sounds like this motor is going to run like scat if I don't wrap my head around this and study a bit more. I'm really proud of what I have learned so far building this 914. But I am just at the tip of the iceberg. Feel free to just tell me to use the search function. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
jaredmcginness |
Sep 23 2020, 05:31 AM
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#2
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... Group: Members Posts: 502 Joined: 12-June 19 From: Baltimore Member No.: 23,209 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Hey guys,
I posted this info in my build thread, but I figured it is better suited here, incase anyone is following for their own type 4. Update: been awaiting a lot of parts for my valve train. Everything has finally arrived! With that said - and having read and taken notes on Raby's novel on Valve Geometry about 7 times - I began. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822307.1.jpg) I ground the 1.7 rockers about .060. Started with ~ .504 and ended with around .437 on all of them. Filed flat and deburred on the buffing wheel. I counter sank them to fit the Thorsten Peiper, Made in Germany swivel feet. (I didnt go OEM ((sorry Jake)), I paid $117 for these - about 1/3 the price of OE - we'll see how it goes. I couldn't find anything bad on these, unlike the El Cheapo $38 ones.) I also chased the threads after this photo. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822307.2.jpg) I assembled the rocker assembly, HD studs, solid spacers, fresh HD washers. One question I am looking for a few answers on: Spacers on the rocker assembly... Am I shooting to line the adjusters up with the valve, (by moving spacers left or right, and stacking between - see photo) dead center as close as I can, then shim later at half lift if needed? Or just assemble the rocker shaft, evenly spaced washers and shim under the studs as needed later. Should it be this layout?: Stud|Rocker|SHIM|Spacer|SHIM|Rocker|Stud Current layout is: Stud|Rocker|SHIM|Spacer|Rocker|SHIM|Stud I have a gap of .006 currently. I may be overthinking the assembly layout, may not matter at all. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822308.3.jpg) I don't have a washer between every piece in the assembly. I'm told and am thinking this is OK... yes? For mounting my magnetic base, I made a quickie bracket. For the hole pattern, I overlayed my intake gasket, and copied with a sharpie. I haphazardly cut it with my grinder, as I ran out of wheels... Pretty sad for a professional sheet metal mechanic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822308.4.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822308.5.jpg) Base mounted GREAT! Super solid! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600822308.6.jpg) This is about as far as I got this evening... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23209-1600823044.1.jpg) I lined up the dial indicator. It looks pretty co linier right now. I want to get the angle dead on. Next is preload, then find full lift, and so on so forth. --------------------- Thanks all! Jared |
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