help with removing front shock top nut (Koni) |
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help with removing front shock top nut (Koni) |
Stltri |
Sep 15 2020, 04:28 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 70 Joined: 13-April 15 From: SoCal Member No.: 18,622 Region Association: None |
Been trying to track down a clunk from the driver front end. Car is a 74 with Koni adjustable insert/shocks on all 4 corners. Looks like its coming from the shock on driver side at the top. Something is loose inside the shock tube and/or cover which duplicates what I hear/feel while driving. I checked everything else on the arms/rack/torsion bars/ball joint and everything tight (since I just also recently replaced all bushings etc). So I wanted to remove the shock to take a look but could not remove the nut after loosening it (while countering with a pipe wrench). I suspect the tab washer (which usually locks the nut and prevent it from spinning) broke. I have read that maybe a impact wrench (I have a cordless and corded impact but not air impact wrench) may spin it loose but may also damage the shock internals so I have not tried that route? Any other ideas on how to remove the nut?
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rhodyguy |
Sep 16 2020, 09:52 PM
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#2
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,060 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Have you pulled the shaft free of the bushing? Pull on the cover and fully compress the strut. You'll have to reef on the Konis a bit. After compressed you can pull it down and out to clear the wheelwell. Throw a towel over the fender first so you can protect the lip. Putting it back in compress it, let it go and aim at the bushing.
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Stltri |
Sep 17 2020, 01:52 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 70 Joined: 13-April 15 From: SoCal Member No.: 18,622 Region Association: None |
Have you pulled the shaft free of the bushing? Pull on the cover and fully compress the strut. You'll have to reef on the Konis a bit. After compressed you can pull it down and out to clear the wheelwell. Throw a towel over the fender first so you can protect the lip. Putting it back in compress it, let it go and aim at the bushing. After much thought, had to improvise how to push that shock rod since pulling from under failed. Noticed that there was rust in the top hat where rod inserts probably caused it to bind. Will clean before reinstallation. Now I can see why gland nut was loose and causing the rattle/clunk I was hunting for (I hope). Anti-seize was applied to thread instead of locktite red, latter is what @clayperrine recommended. Is locktite what everybody uses? After lubricating the inside of the strut I replaced the shock and tightened the gland nut with a spanner wrench, no clunk now, but seems like theres still a gap? Should this be flush? |
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