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> Lay down sally
troth
post Sep 17 2020, 01:33 PM
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Think I’m going to have to cross mine off the VIN registry.

Fuck, I love this car.

Corrosion already starting everywhere the water made it up to. Going to hose it down with fresh water and spray some WD-40 wherever I can. Looking for any tips on how to preserve as much as possible.

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rjames
post Sep 17 2020, 02:00 PM
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That sucks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Some good information here:
https://jalopnik.com/how-to-keep-your-car-r...lood-1800475164
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sb914
post Sep 17 2020, 02:20 PM
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Bummer ......Fix it . “No need to leave so soon” It happened to me with a vw bug . Pulled spark plugs cranked out the water from cylinders replaced voltage regulator and a few more bits but it did fire up and
Drove it for another 8 years before it was stolen ...
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Cairo94507
post Sep 17 2020, 04:00 PM
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Pull it all apart and clean, clean, clean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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SteveL
post Sep 17 2020, 04:05 PM
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can you get the shell dipped and e-coated before the corrosion starts?
If insurance will total it, you can buy it back and have a great starting point that way.
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Superhawk996
post Sep 17 2020, 04:42 PM
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Not sure what happened. Fresh water or salt?

Assuming salt based on location. Not really a bid deal for the chassis. Body has drain holes to clear the water. If salt, I'd actually flush the longs intentionally with fresh water before the salt water gets the corrosion they shipped with accelerated. Once flushed with fresh water use the various holes in the longs, and front/rear structure to force in air to dry internally. If not sure where I'm talking about I can post pictures.

Get the carpets and interior out to dry and prevent them from rusting floorpan. Be careful pulling door panels, the press board will be very weak if still moist.

The wiring is your biggest concern. Water wicks into the strands and gets deep in the insulation. Salt water is the worst case for corrostion.

Wiring -- may be easier to source a donor harness and swap if the corrosion in the wiring can't be contained so well with salt water exposure. Won't be immediate death, but, slowly electrical gremlins will creep in over time as corrosion spreads and resistance grows.

No need to get crazy dipping it. Lots of flood damaged salvage cars running around out there with owners that have no idea that is what they bought. At least you know what you have and can take proactive measure.
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Cairo94507
post Sep 17 2020, 05:20 PM
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True enough. But how many of the flood damaged cars had zero rust protection like our cars? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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mepstein
post Sep 17 2020, 05:33 PM
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QUOTE(SteveL @ Sep 17 2020, 06:05 PM) *

can you get the shell dipped and e-coated before the corrosion starts?
If insurance will total it, you can buy it back and have a great starting point that way.

Take it apart to just a shell - $$$
Dip - $$$
E-coat - $$$
Paint - $$$
Build it all back up - $$$

When I worked at the shop, we sent out 911’s to dip and e-coat. That was about $3k for each step. It was $1.5k to ship the chassis each way. Then bodywork and paint. $15k. So you’re at ~$24k just for the chassis. Just food for thought.
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windforfun
post Sep 17 2020, 07:37 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Sep 17 2020, 03:00 PM) *

Pull it all apart and clean, clean, clean. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Ditto, ditto, ditto. This is what beer was invented for.
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Superhawk996
post Sep 17 2020, 07:38 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Sep 17 2020, 07:20 PM) *

True enough. But how many of the flood damaged cars had zero rust protection like our cars? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Good point, but, I live in the midwest where road salt took a heavy toll on these cars and other non rust proofed vintage iron. In most cases its a very slow death as they rot from the inside out. Not like it will disolve itself in just a few years.

A good flush with fresh water and a solid drying with forced air will be much better than leaving the salt residue in there and will slow things way down. If you want insurance get some Ospho in there, flush that, and then coat your self internally with something like Eastwood Frame paint / neutralizer and the death will be even slower.

As Mark states, the dipping route really isn't all that cost effective. Would be OK if you're going for ultimate longevity and/or some sort of concours rebuild.
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Ian Stott
post Sep 18 2020, 04:53 AM
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Check out a product called Rust Check, we use it a lot in eastern Canada, great product and it creeps into all those cannot get to places. I get my vehicles done annually as the amount of salt used on the roads here would shock you. My teener goes away before the salt comes out and stays in the garage until we have had a few good rains in the spring that washes the salt away.

Ian Stott
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ChrisFoley
post Sep 18 2020, 05:41 AM
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Weren't you getting ready to rebuild the engine anyway?
For now, just get the upholstery out and make sure everything is thoroughly dried.
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troth
post Sep 18 2020, 04:41 PM
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Got the interior pulled out today. Going to do a fresh water hose down tomorrow and flush the oil and trans fluid. Wiring harness definitely toasted. Would like to drill some drain holes in the longs and flush that as well.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions for an aerosol rust inhibitor that’s easy to find in large quantities for cheap.

Right now the plan is to have it shipped to PMB so it can dry out in the desert.
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mepstein
post Sep 18 2020, 05:34 PM
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WD40 ?
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troth
post Sep 18 2020, 05:43 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 18 2020, 06:34 PM) *

WD40 ?


Yeah that’s the plan right now unless Walmart has something more effective.
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mepstein
post Sep 18 2020, 06:01 PM
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QUOTE(troth @ Sep 18 2020, 07:43 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 18 2020, 06:34 PM) *

WD40 ?


Yeah that’s the plan right now unless Walmart has something more effective.

I bought a gallon of it a while ago and put some in a plastic spray bottle. Much cheaper and less waste than aerosol cans.

I have what I think is a mid year chassis wire harness. If you think you need it, I’ll send it to you. No charge.
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RRietman
post Sep 18 2020, 08:08 PM
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QUOTE(troth @ Sep 17 2020, 12:33 PM) *

Think I’m going to have to cross mine off the VIN registry.

Fuck, I love this car.

Corrosion already starting everywhere the water made it up to. Going to hose it down with fresh water and spray some WD-40 wherever I can. Looking for any tips on how to preserve as much as possible.

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I have been involved with raising a couple sunken float planes in my diving career. the A+P's were very concerned about getting the engine running RIGHT AWAY. other than that it was just flush, flush, clean, clean and put back in service.
Good luck
Randy
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bretth
post Sep 18 2020, 10:17 PM
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I wonder if it would be useful to put in the garage with a few dehumidifiers set on high when you are not working on it. Also i bought a bunch of torch cut scrap steel for a project I am working on. In order to get most of the slag and crud off the parts I power washed with plain water on a hot sunny day. Then lay the pieces in the sun which dries them out real fast and no rust formed. Best of luck.
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djway
post Sep 19 2020, 03:51 AM
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Open up everything, remove anything that holds moisture.
Home Depot sells straight Phosphoric Acid, dilute to around 20% and spray like crazy, use a mask. It leaves a white zinc phosphate powder that can keep bare metal rust free for years, especially if you don't wipe it down.
Blow air through closed cavities to dry the spray in some phosphoric and also you can use Eastwood internal frame coating. Just drown any closed chamber.
Fluid film can be used on a lot of the parts or surfaces.
You can also use some epoxy paint after the acid if you clean it with a non aqueous pre paint cleaner.
These are just a few products available.
Many electronic items can be opened and cleaned.
Never surrender
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mate914
post Sep 19 2020, 04:46 AM
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This happened to my car about 10 years ago. All the other cars in the area got towed out. I pulled all four spark plugs blew the water out, fired it up and drove it around for three days full of mud because my truck was unreachable due to flood..
looking at the water level on your door that’s about the same levels 914 to begin the float. Matt
Pull everything apart and clean it with water.
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