Lay down sally Options

[Superhawk996]

Got the interior pulled out today. Going to do a fresh water hose down tomorrow and flush the oil and trans fluid. Wiring harness definitely toasted. Would like to drill some drain holes in the longs and flush that as well.

Please let me know if you have any suggestions for an aerosol rust inhibitor that’s easy to find in large quantities for cheap.

Right now the plan is to have it shipped to PMB so it can dry out in the desert.

@troth

I would caution against drilling drain holes. The raw edge of the drilled holes is more likely to be the start of a corrosion point than what you already have.

The longs already have drains in them. Just make sure they are clear and not coved up with undercoat.

Same for rear suspension conslole, there are drains at the bottom. Make sure they aren't covered up.

Look up in the engine compartment toward the rear of the trunk divider - there are already ventilation holes for moisture to escape though and/or force air into to force dry.

Same up under the gas tank. Pull that out. There are small "frame" sections there with ventilation holes.

Pull the door thresholds anyway to get the carpets out, each of those retention screws is a hole in the longitudinaly. Also the longitudinals have tar type mastic covering 2 eliptical holes on the inner surface. Pull those if you wish to get more ventilation.

Bottom line, I don't think you need more new holes IMO.

[IronHillRestorations]

I’m in the “drill access holes, clean, treat for rust, and paint “ side of the discussion. I think you can clean it out and mitigate/arrest any corrosion. All that said, it is a time sensitive problem and dealing with it asap is a good idea. Get an undercoating kit and a case of Eastwood’s Internal Frame Coating

I’m just wrapping up a resto-mod on a chassis that was dipped and going forward I’d never have a 914 chassis dipped again, although it came to me completely stripped. There’s just so much involved.

It’s easy to throw out “get it dipped and e-coated”, but show me a thread where someone has done it to a 914. When you say that do you realize how much additional painting and seam sealing has to be done, let alone redoing all that in a way that replicates a factory application? I’ll only mention the problems with “Faraday effect” and all the closed up box sections in a 914

An older thread: Corrosion treatment

I’d add that a decent endoscope will help assess your situation, and having the chassis on a rotisserie is a huge benefit.

[sixnotfour]

Right now the plan is to have it shipped to PMB so it can dry out in the desert.

its almost winter = rain and snow, in Utah..pmb is great but Utah has weather..lived it for 5 years now..from PNW

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

if not salt water there is still hope. 'shame after all of these years getting flooded

Think I’m going to have to cross mine off the VIN registry.

Fuck, I love this car.

Corrosion already starting everywhere the water made it up to. Going to hose it down with fresh water and spray some WD-40 wherever I can. Looking for any tips on how to preserve as much as possible.

[burton73]

Did you call you insurance company and make a claim? If they total it out you can buy it back for a low dollar amount. Get lots of pictures. This is why we have insurance.



Bob B

[troth]

Changed oil on the engine and trans yesterday. Lots of water in both. Spark plugs came out easy and I was able to turn the engine over by hand. Good amount of water splashed out. It started to rain so I shot some WD40 in the cylinders and put the plugs back in. I’d like to flush the oil one more time, fill the cylinders with oil, and get everything hosed off ASAP, but trying to deal with too much at once right now.

Been raining every since so can’t get any more work done. Spent time cleaning up the apartment. We woke up the night of the storm with water on the floor. Ended up with about 2 inches inside. Didn’t get past the baseboard, but it’s getting inspected tomorrow to see if it’s habitable. Been staying with upstairs neighbors in the meantime.

Thank god for beer, even if it’s warm.

[troth]

At least I came out better than these guys...



It’s one thing to see pictures of this shit on the news, but to climb out your kitchen window at 4 am into knee deep water with 100+ mph winds is something else. Definitely learned my lesson and hope others can learn from it to take this shit seriously.

[porschetub]

if not salt water there is still hope. 'shame after all of these years getting flooded

Think I’m going to have to cross mine off the VIN registry.

Fuck, I love this car.

Corrosion already starting everywhere the water made it up to. Going to hose it down with fresh water and spray some WD-40 wherever I can. Looking for any tips on how to preserve as much as possible.

I would not go much further if it is water damaged ,end or story sorry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) .

[East coaster]

Fluid film

[ctc911ctc]

looking at the water level on your door that’s about the same levels 914 to begin the float. Matt

Yea, I laughed at this one, never knew! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Superhawk996]

I would not go much further if it is water damaged ,end or story sorry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) .

@porschetub
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) You're far too pessimistic. I'm a sucker for projects. Never surrender to rust. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) It's got a six in it!

I'd take it if it arrived on my door step. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[mlindner]

If your going to drill access holes, how about just spraying in a water based rust inhibater everywhere. And let it dry for a year before any undercoating or sealing is being done..My 2 cent., Best, Mark

[IronHillRestorations]

I've thought about this quite a bit over the past few days. I'd still do what I suggest, but with one change. I'd take out the interior and carpets, door panels, back pad, etc. Then flush it all out really good with fresh water, shop vac it dry. Then make a plastic room around the car, put a dehumidifier in the room set on max dry, open the doors hood and deck lid, and let it go like that for about a month. After that I'd do the corrosion treatment on it. Just my .02 This really sucks though.

[Chris H.]

I've thought about this quite a bit over the past few days. I'd still do what I suggest, but with one change. I'd take out the interior and carpets, door panels, back pad, etc. Then flush it all out really good with fresh water, shop vac it dry. Then make a plastic room around the car, put a dehumidifier in the room set on max dry, open the doors hood and deck lid, and let it go like that for about a month. After that I'd do the corrosion treatment on it. Just my .02 This really sucks though.

You could also add a few bags of charcoal to the "drying room" that would absorb moisture too.

[Superhawk996]

I've thought about this quite a bit over the past few days. I'd still do what I suggest, but with one change. I'd take out the interior and carpets, door panels, back pad, etc. Then flush it all out really good with fresh water, shop vac it dry. Then make a plastic room around the car, put a dehumidifier in the room set on max dry, open the doors hood and deck lid, and let it go like that for about a month. After that I'd do the corrosion treatment on it. Just my .02 This really sucks though.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Well mostly, I personally still wouldn't drill more access holes but either way, its a fair bit better than not flushing it with fresh water. The main reason I'm not for drilling more holes is that the water is going to have to come out in the form of water vapor as it dries. IMHO there were sufficient ventilation holes placed in the structure as part of the design to allow for water incursion, draining, and evaporative drying.

Either way, thre really is no "right" answer. The main thing is to get the salt waster flushed as well as possible.

I know you must have way more presssing issues than trying to save the car but better to do more sooner than put it off, especially w.r.t. the engine. Sooner that is flushed, and started to get heat into it to drive out any residual water, the better.