Starting my engine on a stand, issues arose Options

[IronHillRestorations]

My plans have changed. Would late Sunday afternoon work?

[ndfrigi]

What size engine are those on? @ndfrigi

220 Air
145 Main - this is a little rich for a 2.0
50/55 idles will be good, I can't tell which you have

For anyone interested in the tuning of carbs especially for a type 4 engine. I found this guy on youtube and while he is using knock off carbs (Weber IDF clones) his testing and methods on setting the floats, jetting, and setting up the carbs is pretty sound.

youtube channel -
Motor7710

sorry @malcolm to get into your thread.
@nditiz1 thank you for your concern on my set up. I believed my engine is a 2056 based on my good friend who gave me this engine (one of our best member here) that he just acquired from someone. After adjusting the valves. I have 150 +/- 1 compressions now on cold engine.
I have 50 idle jet and145 main jet, maybe that is why the mix idle screw is way back out to add more air? (from set up before I dismantled it). Didn’t test run the engine yet after cleaning my carbs.

[malcolm2]

My plans have changed. Would late Sunday afternoon work?

Not this week. Gonna head to Dauphin Island. Looking forward to it. Check in next time you come thru. I don't get west too often. Usually in a rush to work or play golf, etc..... But I will do the same.

[malcolm2]

I am back at it after a Fall Break with the wife.

The German Snail has arrived, but I seem to have a problem. The snout seems to be too long. It is sitting on the (not sure what it is called) cross bar in side the barrel thus it does not seal up. I am thinking of cutting it around the bar, or making it shorter? Or maybe find a large O-ring to set on the plate.

Thoughts?

[rhodyguy]

Do your carbs not have velocity stacks? You can use a piece of somewhat rigid tubing placed on the filter base to keep the Unisyn out of the carb throats. Illustrated on pages 30&31 of the CB manual. No need for the tubing with V stacks.

[bobboinski]

I know it is too late but back when I was riding motorcycles I used something like this to balance the carburetors on my Z1. It was nice because when you adjusted one carb it affected the others and you could see everything that was happening. You need a port to attach the gauges to each intake run so maybe that is why they aren't used on 914s.

https://www.motosport.com/product/?acctid=2...001&variant[MOP000W]=MOP000W-X001-Y001

[Gint]

I am back at it after a Fall Break with the wife.

The German Snail has arrived, but I seem to have a problem. The snout seems to be too long. It is sitting on the (not sure what it is called) cross bar in side the barrel thus it does not seal up. I am thinking of cutting it around the bar, or making it shorter? Or maybe find a large O-ring to set on the plate.

Thoughts?

@malcolm2
Look at the fittings on the STE in this ad:
https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6537.htm
Take that adapter off and see what is underneath. That adapter works well if you have velocity stacks on your carbs. You don't. Hence the problem. Not insurmountable, but... you may be able to home brew it depending on what's under the adapter you have or even with that adapter.

I have had a German STE for 20 years. Never needed anything else.

I have used Perry's ( @IronHillRestorations ) carb tuning guide many, many times over the years. I read it to refresh my memory every time I have to go in and do it again.

I think the biggest concern here is you don't want to spend too much time dickin around tuning and syncing carbs before you get that cam break in done. And I don't know how perfect it needs to be just to do a cam break in. I'll leave that to the experts. I'm just dangerous and headin for a meltdown. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Linkage bushing - Check your local hardware store's supplies of plastic bushings. You'll probably find something that works. It doesn't need to be perfect or exactly like the other at this point.

[Gint]

@malcolm2

Here you go. I knew there were more fittings available for the STE

https://www.carburetion.com/Products/Produc...spx?part=STE-SK

[malcolm2]

I love when a plan comes together..... Well almost.

Pulled and soaked and cleaned the carbs. Set the screws, removed the linkage, got new NON-metalic plug wires. BOOM. ran nice even before the carb balancing. Balanced the carbs with the linkage off... attempted to get the linkage right, but did not. Got close enough for the garage floor.

Once that was done, I checked the timing. Also pretty good. Let her run for 20 minutes at about 2000 rpm. Love the throaty carb sound....

I assume I am gonna need to adjust all the nuts, etc.... on the linkage. I got the turn buckles the same length and that was a big mess. Then just got it "good enough" for break in. Man it sounds really good.

[malcolm2]

Linkage is still wacky, but I got it DONE. 1.8 liter out of a 914, converted to a 2.0 liter, with Camper Special Heads, swivel foot adjusters, solid rocker spacers, chromoly push rods, 9550 cam, flamer thrower 3 module and coil, Stock exhaust, dished bus pistons, 7.4 CR for my VW BUS, borrowed weber 40s ( IIRC ) for break-in.

Some may remember my 1911 for my 914.... I screwed that up for sure. Miss-indexed the cam and the crank.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) never started, had to crack it open and there is was. That one has 50,000 miles on it now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

Thanks to all that got me this far and thru that mess.

here is the finished product.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpr5DZUQ4pM


https://youtu.be/bpr5DZUQ4pM

[malcolm2]

Linkage bushing - Check your local hardware store's supplies of plastic bushings. You'll probably find something that works. It doesn't need to be perfect or exactly like the other at this point.

When I took it all apart, I noticed that there was a spring in the bushing on one side. Will the other side need a spring?

The 2nd bushing was there, it has just pushed into the cup. But it is in bad shape.

[Gint]

Not necessarily. The entire thing operates as a unit, so one spring should be fine as long as it provides enough tension.

Yes, you can adjust that linkage. That's the one good thing about the cross bar linkage. The fact that it has to be done is another opinion.

[Superhawk996]

Great Job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Love the cacophony of an aircooled motor on carbs!

[jtprettyman]

Linkage is still wacky, but I got it DONE. 1.8 liter out of a 914, converted to a 2.0 liter, with Camper Special Heads, swivel foot adjusters, solid rocker spacers, chromoly push rods, 9550 cam, flamer thrower 3 module and coil, Stock exhaust, dished bus pistons, 7.4 CR for my VW BUS, borrowed weber 40s ( IIRC ) for break-in.

Some may remember my 1911 for my 914.... I screwed that up for sure. Miss-indexed the cam and the crank.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) never started, had to crack it open and there is was. That one has 50,000 miles on it now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)

Thanks to all that got me this far and thru that mess.

here is the finished product.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpr5DZUQ4pM


https://youtu.be/bpr5DZUQ4pM

@malcolm2 - Those were 44's. Sounds great, very nice grumble to it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)

[IronHillRestorations]

I've seen it with springs on both sides, and single. You are on the right track, getting spacing and geometry the same on both sides.

On a couple 6 conversions, I've had to slot some of the mounting holes on the bracket. and/or bend the brackets to help alignment.

If you have to "cheat" and slide the brackets on the crossbar, do your best to get idle stop position and wide open throttle the same on both sides.

This is where I think the round crossbar type is better, because the linkage arms can be clamped at any position.