Another GT Look-a-Likey Project thread, Made a gas strut lifted air dam to clear my driveway |
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Another GT Look-a-Likey Project thread, Made a gas strut lifted air dam to clear my driveway |
john77 |
Oct 1 2020, 04:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 621 Joined: 21-February 14 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 17,027 Region Association: Southern California |
Started the process of GT flaring my car this week.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-17027-1601589977.1.jpg) The plan is to weld all four flares on first, then widen the rears to fit 9s, and in the process strip the car panel by panel for a repaint. The rear arches had been pulled at some point in the 90s to fit 7s, and I knew they'd gone to town with bondo to smooth the driver's side out because there was a crack. The picture below is a cross section cut through the arch once I removed it... that's 0.5 inches of bondo right there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/live.staticflickr.com-17027-1601589886.1.jpg) After making the initial rough cuts it dawned on me I'm probably going to need to remove the rear quarter oil tank to give me enough clearance to tig weld the flare on the front and back. I can only see one bolt, inside the engine bay - is that the only thing holding the tank in place? Also, dumb question, can I remove the tank without having to drain my engine oil first? I didn't think this far ahead and only changed my oil last month (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
john77 |
Oct 11 2020, 12:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 621 Joined: 21-February 14 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 17,027 Region Association: Southern California |
Got home from the shop on Saturday night to find a delivery on my doorstep.
(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50452360458_e8c2fa8453_z.jpg) Once the flares are done I'm planning to take my entire car back to bare metal and do a complete color change. I have experience spray painting, but my spray gun got stolen by a meth head (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) and the compressor at the shop took a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif), so I was trying to figure out the best way to get it done without leaving the metal exposed for too long. Which is when I stumbled on this roll on stuff from Eastwood. An auto paint channel I follow on youtube did a review and he seemed pretty impressed so I figured I'd give it a shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnNVQvTSE6I The main appeal was that it will allow me to work panel by panel without having to mask the car or move it into a makeshift booth (that, plus I don't even have the equipment to spray right now). So once the first flare's done I'll strip the rest of the paint off the fender, paint the entire fender with the roll on epoxy, and then be good to move on to the next one. Then, once all the flares are done, I'll strip the doors, hood, deck lid, frunk, trunk, one by one and epoxy them as I go until eventually the entire car's in epoxy. With the car completely sealed up with epoxy I can then figure out what I want to do regarding color without having to think about that right now which will probably overwhelm me into doing nothing... and mean my car's off the road for months. Right now I'm thinking I'll get Eastwood's roll on primer surfacer to go on top of the epoxy, and sand and prep the car straight myself so it's ready for basecoat/clear, at which point I may pay a shop to finish it. Although that may change, depending on my circumstances - I may end up getting a new compressor and gun and do the base/clear myself as I have another project car that will eventually need paint too, so the reinvestment in the equipment may be worth it. Plus the meth head no longer works at the shop where I rent space to work on my cars so, you know, there's that. I'll keep this thread updated on how the roll on epoxy turns out. |
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