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> GT Flare project thread, Shape of flare after it curves off top of fender?
john77
post Oct 13 2020, 04:57 PM
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Ahhh, okay, now I see what PanelBilly meant. I had the "removable valance" question on my brain and thought he meant that (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just reread the conversation I had with @914Dave and I misspoke, he's running 9s in the back just like I will be.

He told me he had to have .100” machined off the mounting surface and the fender lip cut down to about 1/8”, and they only just fit with 1/16" clearance.

Maybe it's because the offset is different from fuchs, i don't know.

Either way, it looks like I'll have to get the mounting face machined down .100" or somehow widen the flare a little to get them to fit.

One option I was thinking about was using my shrinker/stretcher on the lip to stretch them a little and then english wheeling out the flat face of the flare to give them a little more shape. Although I'm a little hesitant to alter the original shape of them too much.




QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Oct 13 2020, 01:04 PM) *

15x9 245/50 lips folded up,,,my other 914, are widen 1.5

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John
post Oct 13 2020, 09:38 PM
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I run 9x16 on all 4 corners on the track car and have for more than 30 years. I never machined any wheels. I have had several sets and they all fit. Of course, these flares have been on the car since 1983-ish. I fully expect to be able to do the same with my current project (flares I bought in a group buy back in 2004-2005)
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john77
post Oct 13 2020, 10:02 PM
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@John Were any of those sets Group 4 Campagnolos? This is literally what I’ve been told by someone who’s running the exact same wheels I plan to run. Maybe the offset is different.

QUOTE(John @ Oct 13 2020, 08:38 PM) *

I run 9x16 on all 4 corners on the track car and have for more than 30 years. I never machined any wheels. I have had several sets and they all fit. Of course, these flares have been on the car since 1983-ish. I fully expect to be able to do the same with my current project (flares I bought in a group buy back in 2004-2005)
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914dave
post Oct 16 2020, 07:39 PM
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9 x 16 have a more favorable offset than the 9 x 15.
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john77
post Oct 16 2020, 09:44 PM
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Slowly making progress metal finishing the weld on the first flare today.

Can someone tell me, as the flare comes off the top of the fender and starts to roll down toward where the turn signal barnacle would be, is that supposed to flow into the flare with a smooth transition (pink) or is it more like an abrupt crease (yellow)?


(IMG:https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50496447956_d61423303f_z.jpg)
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Literati914
post Oct 16 2020, 09:57 PM
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@john77

Wow I was surprised to read your thread and come across someone else willing to roll paint onto their car !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I have my project car (which is outdoors/unprotected) in epoxy primer now after stripping it down to bare metal, then rolling it on with 4" rollers from Home Depot (don't laugh). The thing is, I expected a good amount of orange peal - which I got, 'cause I plan on blocking it down (filler work was done before the epoxy). Then I plan to roll on polyester primer surfacer (2K high build primer).. and block it down too. My time is free, so..

But that brings me to a consideration that I wonder if you'd thought about.. and that is, while the epoxy primer creates a sort of hard shell that doesn't easily/quickly soak up moisture - the 2K high build would. So you'd want to be ready to spray once you get the 2K blocked down straight. But nothing says it couldn't be sprayed a panel at a time.

I hate to admit this but I've actually even thought about rolling on the UA single stage paint that I'll be using. I mean, I do have the compressor and spray equipment but if you plan to wet sand the entire car anyway.. I'm not sure it wouldn't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . The advantages for me being that I would not have to invest in purchasing and putting up a temporary garage to shoot in, seal it, purchase exhaust fans, etc. Also, the lack of highly aerosol-ed paint may not smell as bad and get the attention of fewer pissed off neighbors. Not to mention, may be less hazardous to me - I don't completely trust the respirator/masks (though I'd still wear one) - and professional paint is dangerous stuff. But, I have not decided against spraying either. So I will be getting an idea of it's feasibility by rolling it on the under-side of the car, wheel wells and longs first. I know this is probably crazy, but we'll see before going all in on the visible parts of the car. Anyway, your project is coming along nicely, keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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john77
post Oct 17 2020, 12:04 AM
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@Literati914

The roll on epoxy I have is 2K and, if Eastwood’s to be believed, is self-leveling. As long as I prep the metal correctly I don’t see orange peel being an issue.

My plan is to only do epoxy so I don’t have to worry about moisture. I’ll only do primer surfacer and block when I’m ready for color/clear.

Can you sand color? I was under the impression if you do you have to do another coat or it will show through the clear.





QUOTE(Literati914 @ Oct 16 2020, 08:57 PM) *

@john77

Wow I was surprised to read your thread and come across someone else willing to roll paint onto their car !! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I have my project car (which is outdoors/unprotected) in epoxy primer now after stripping it down to bare metal, then rolling it on with 4" rollers from Home Depot (don't laugh). The thing is, I expected a good amount of orange peal - which I got, 'cause I plan on blocking it down (filler work was done before the epoxy). Then I plan to roll on polyester primer surfacer (2K high build primer).. and block it down too. My time is free, so..

But that brings me to a consideration that I wonder if you'd thought about.. and that is, while the epoxy primer creates a sort of hard shell that doesn't easily/quickly soak up moisture - the 2K high build would. So you'd want to be ready to spray once you get the 2K blocked down straight. But nothing says it couldn't be sprayed a panel at a time.

I hate to admit this but I've actually even thought about rolling on the UA single stage paint that I'll be using. I mean, I do have the compressor and spray equipment but if you plan to wet sand the entire car anyway.. I'm not sure it wouldn't work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . The advantages for me being that I would not have to invest in purchasing and putting up a temporary garage to shoot in, seal it, purchase exhaust fans, etc. Also, the lack of highly aerosol-ed paint may not smell as bad and get the attention of fewer pissed off neighbors. Not to mention, may be less hazardous to me - I don't completely trust the respirator/masks (though I'd still wear one) - and professional paint is dangerous stuff. But, I have not decided against spraying either. So I will be getting an idea of it's feasibility by rolling it on the under-side of the car, wheel wells and longs first. I know this is probably crazy, but we'll see before going all in on the visible parts of the car. Anyway, your project is coming along nicely, keep it up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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campbellcj
post Oct 17 2020, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(john77 @ Oct 12 2020, 09:21 PM) *

I'm going to be getting a new front valance to match the shape of the flares, but I have a problem...

The driveway up the side of my house to my garage in the back is pretty steep, and the valance I have on the car now scrapes across the sidewalk as I hit the bottom of the driveway.

I'm wondering if there's a way I can make the valance quick release, so I can take it off when I drive in and out of my house? But not so quick release that it flies off on the 405 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Dzus fasteners maybe?

Has anyone done this?


Mine is set up as semi-quick release - I used two dzus fasteners on the L/R sides but ended up using screws w/ nutserts in front for added security. It comes on/off within a couple mins unless I have the brake ducts connected, for which I haven't yet figured out a quick-release setup. I did this for trailer ramp clearance many years ago.
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Literati914
post Oct 17 2020, 10:32 AM
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QUOTE(john77 @ Oct 17 2020, 01:04 AM) *

@Literati914

..block when I’m ready for color/clear.

Can you sand color? I was under the impression if you do you have to do another coat or it will show through the clear.


Ok so you're using base and clear, the clear would be wet sanded not the color .. and for that reason rolling paint on may be even less of a good idea - might not work out so great if the color is lumpy and the clear as well. It may be doable though with a single stage, we'll see. Good luck with your project.
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