hub bearings (race bearings), how to, and can I without a press Options

[wilchek]

So, after posting my topic last week on wheel noise I pulled the front wheel to look at the bearings. As soon as I pulled the cap off I saw some small metal flakes. However, the bearing looked fine. So I go in deeper and realize that the race bearing (small metal sleve in the hub) is pitted and flaking apart. So what to do? I call GPR and they are awesome as always, tell me they can get them for 8bucks, but they need to be pressed in. Has anyone ever tried this. Or shoud I just take it to a shop and tell them to do it for 20 bucks. I asked GPR also about getting new complete rotors and hubs but they said the race bearings are not in the new rotors, does this sound correct? SEE PICS.

Does anyone have a used front rotor for a 73 with OK race bearings that they want to sell?

[wilchek]

pic 2

[URY914]

It is easy to put in new races in the hub. Some people stick them in the freezer to get them to pucker up a little before installing them.

Paul

[wilchek]

how do I get the old ones out, a big hammer

[Mueller]

you can remove those races from the backside of each race...carefully use a screwdriver or put a socket on a 3/8" drive extension and tap them out...the larger diameter the socket the better as long as it'll fit.

for installing, you can heat the rotor, and freeze the bearing race.

if you have access to a bench grinder, take the OLD races and grind down the OD so that they'll just fall into thier old location, you can now use these to help drive in the new races if you have problems.

[URY914]

Turn the hub over and look on the inside. There are two small notched out areas that you can get a screwdriver or punch into and be able to tap the old ones out.

[Jamie]

Damn, all this bearing stuff is making me nervous! I guess when winter comes I will have to dig out the jackstands and start pulling wheels on Dad's Mistress- I'm almost up to 44K original miles, but thinking more about all those OEM lubes. Should I also change tranny oil, and what about CV joints?

[bondo]

Yup, take them out. They are part of the bearing, and should be replaced. Really not that hard. On cars that have the race pressed into the rotor itself, (many american cars) The new rotor usually comes with the race. But when it's a separate hub, they don't as the hub is not a regularly replaced maintenance item.

[Jenny]

QUOTE (URY914 @ Jul 14 2005, 12:04 PM)

Turn the hub over and look on the inside. There are two small notched out areas that you can get a screwdriver or punch into and be able to tap the old ones out.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) Leaned this from Jeff Keyzer when he did my bearings. And ditto on heating the rotor & freezing the bearings. Still tricky. Taking a (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) to it may damage the race or wedge it in cockeyed. Then you'll need a new one. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) A large washer placed over the race works well. Then a socket on top of that. The trick is applying even pressure, obviously.

Jen

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (wilchek @ Jul 14 2005, 03:00 PM)

how do I get the old ones out, a big hammer

doesn't take a big hammer, but it will take a SHARP chisel or drift punch to get a purchase on the bearing race. tap them out - teeny bit on one side, teeny bit on the other. it's a press fit and won't tolerate much (any) misalignment. get them cocked (wedged) in there and it gets unpleasant.

that said - if you haven't done this kind of thing before, it might be worth the $20 to take the hub, the new inner and outer bearings, and the grease seal, to your local machine shop, and have them pressed in and out. (i bought a press a long time ago for this very thing...)

each bearing is a MATCHED inner and outer race. you must use the matched set.

there's currently a thread running on wheel bearings and grease. get a GOOD grease to repack the new bearings - i like Mobil-1 which should be available at just about every FLAPS. go ahead and get the tube; yeah, it'll last you a LONG time, but you won't be having to worry about bearing issues again any time soon...

all the usual suspects have the inner and outer bearings and grease seal and yes, you need to do them all at once.

[ArtechnikA]

QUOTE (Jamie @ Jul 14 2005, 03:06 PM)

Should I also change tranny oil, and what about CV joints?

yes.
clean and repack them.

in that order.

[wilchek]

thanks guys, Got the race out no problem with a big flat screw driver, put it in the slots from the back side and tapped a little at a time from each of the two slots. Easier than I expected, took about 1 minute. Got the new bearing and race (didn't realize that the bearing and race come together) for 8 bucks. SKF bearing from NAPA autoparts. I stuffed it in the freezer and will put it in later tonight. I like the idea of milling down the outer diameter of the old race and using that as a punch tool. I'll let you know how it goes. BTW, check my original forum for why I am changing the bearings and the problems I was having that made me check my bearings.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...&hl=bearing

[wilchek]

All went as planned the race slid in with a little bit of proding. As Muller suggested I ground down the outer diameter of the old race and used that to hammer the new race bearing in, worked like a charm.

[URY914]

Glad to help. Now what else do you plan to do? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Paul