Modify your rear valance for custom exhaust tips, here's how we did it Options

[tygaboy]

Robert, my buddy @BuddyV has a cool, dual exhaust muffler on his big 4, wanted to run the rear valance and asked if I could help him make that happen. I've got to do this same sort of modification on my valance so figured "what better way to develop the skill than by practicing on someone else's car?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I figured I'd give the hammer form approach a go. Apologies for not documenting as the work occurred and not taking pics along the way but you'll get the idea.

Anyway, here's how we did it:

First, I used a template tool and copied the shape of the valance and the desired shape of the opening onto a block of wood. I bit of time with a band saw and sander and I had the hammer form.

Lesson learned: don't use a regular ol' 2x4. It barely made it through the process! Again, this pic is after all the hammering and you can see the carnage. Hardwood next time.

[tygaboy]

Next, Robert marked where he wanted to cut outs and I removed the "appropriate" amount of material.

As mentioned, no pics of this but I used snips to cut out the opening, leaving enough material to hammer in a return that would match the factory return along the lower edge of the valance. Leave more than you think you'll need since the excess can be sanded away once things are hammered into place.

Then, the hammer form gets positioned in the valance and clamped in place. I used vice grip C-clamps like those pictured.

[tygaboy]

I used a nylon mallet to hammer the material into the form, creating the opening and the return. Here's the unpainted result, on Robert's car.
He'll have it painted and we'll post those pics, too.

Also, I'll update this with more and better "in process" pics when I do this mod to my valance.

[914werke]

what about filling in the OE notch?

[mb911]

Chris thats a nice approach.. What I have done in the past is make the cut out then shear a strip of the appropriate width and thickness steel for the lip and fuse the edge with TIG then blend quickly with a roloc scotch brite.. Thats basically what I do on the GT bumper modifications I do for folks.

[slowrodent]

Very nicely done and quite applicable to my car. I look forward to the "in progress" pics...

[tygaboy]

what about filling in the OE notch?

@914werke - Robert didn't want to do that, at least not yet. On mine, I'll fab a filler piece and weld it in.

[steuspeed]

I want dual exhaust like that for my outlaw 2.0. What muffler is it?

[DRPHIL914]

I want dual exhaust like that for my outlaw 2.0. What muffler is it?

looks like mb911's new GT style twin pipe muffler, been considering this myself, but have to source a different set of HE, sell my current set up and have someone else do this to my valance for me as i dont have a welder or access to one here at the present time.... but those muffers are a work of art!

[mbseto]

Nice. Love those quick satisfying jobs.

[mb911]

I want dual exhaust like that for my outlaw 2.0. What muffler is it?

looks like mb911's new GT style twin pipe muffler, been considering this myself, but have to source a different set of HE, sell my current set up and have someone else do this to my valance for me as i dont have a welder or access to one here at the present time.... but those muffers are a work of art!

Gonna have 1.7/1.8 ones shortly

[Cairo94507]

Chris @tygaboy - very nicely handled.

My personal opinion, yeah- no one cares (according to my wife) - is the rear of the cars just look unfinished w/o a rear valance installed. I don't care if it's a deep or shorty valance, the car needs one to look correct from the side and rear.

On my last Six I had the GT style muffler and I filled the stock hole and then added the two for the pipes and thought it looked darn near factory correct. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

Back to working up the patch panel to close off the stock opening. @914werke , you'd asked about this earlier.

First, I wanted to get the top-to-bottom profile but not any side-to-side curve.

A neat trick is that if you put an inner tube around the upper anvil of the English wheel, it only curves the material left/right vs creating a compound curve. I've pulled the inner tube a bit off center, just to make it obvious it's there.

In the next couple pics, you can see the left/right (top to bottom of the part) curve but how the length stays straight.

[tygaboy]

Here's the area to close off and a test fit of the profile so far. I'll cut out the stock opening, trim the panel to fit and butt weld it in place.

[tygaboy]

Next, I needed to tip the return. Since the panel was already curved, it couldn't go in the brake so I used the bead roller. I just needed to figure out the best die to get as close as I could to the radius on the valance.

[tygaboy]

Then I used the shrinker to get the side-to-side curve. You can see the marks it leaves on the return.
Here are a few shots of the fit at this stage. It's essentially where it needs to be. Now I need to work out where I want to cut the valance to remove the stock opening, trim this panel to fit, make any final adjustments and weld it in.

[cary]

Nice work ..............

[AZBanks]

I'm curious why you are making such a big patch and not just patching the small area of the original opening.

[Cairo94507]

I think that is going look like a pipe never exited in that location. Very clean job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

I'm curious why you are making such a big patch and not just patching the small area of the original opening.

@AZBanks - It's common - and far easier, especially with smaller parts, to shape a larger piece then cut it to size. I'll slice out the stock opening about like this pic, fit the new panel, scribe the cut opening shape onto the panel and trim it to fit the opening.