2.0 or more, Bigger is better |
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2.0 or more, Bigger is better |
930cabman |
Nov 14 2020, 05:07 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,977 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
I cut my wrenching teeth on VW bugs and Type 3's back in the '70's and '80's. Been somewhat out of the game for several years looking to rejoin into the 914 world. Generally the easiest way for more kick is to increase displacement. Short of going to turbo's what is available as far as big bore kits. I am not interested in going the 6 cylinder route or chevy small block route. The car will be street only, but I need speed.
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VaccaRabite |
Dec 2 2020, 07:57 AM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,405 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square. Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close. Zach |
930cabman |
Dec 2 2020, 11:10 AM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,977 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) you need to brace the doors or you WILL twist the chassis while welding. There are lots of threads with that information in it. But for the most part people ar building stout rods with a turnbuckle in the middle you you can dial in the right amount of load to keep the car square. Since these cars don't have a roof to add structure welding done along the longs will put a twist in the car. And you won't notice it until the very end when you are trying to re-hang the doors and the gaps refuse to line up, or worse the door refuses to close. Zach Zach, Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar. |
VaccaRabite |
Dec 3 2020, 09:48 AM
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#4
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,405 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Zach, Thank you, the reinforcing braces are at the top of my list. Back in the '80's I put a '69 Ghia back together and did not align the body at all. The car drove well for many years afterwards, but always had bad door gaps. I am considering utilizing a system that would allow test fitting the doors as progress moves along. Not sure of the method. I am considering a few spreaders at the targa area with nylon binders to hold everything together. Theoretically this would maintain the 25 1/8" number between the windshield header and the targa bar. Don't try and bolt anything to the top of the windshield frame. Its not structural and will just bend as the car twists. Door latch to upper door hinge, and another from the top hinge to the base of the door sill. When I say hinge, I mean make a plate that bolts into the 3 captive nuts at the top of the hinge. Again, do a search or look in the Classics section. Pics make this easier then trying to describe it. Zach |
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