Advice: Fuel Pump Relocation Location Options

[Shivers]

Could one of you guy's post a few pics for us interested in reproducing the 75-76 fuel pump access opening and plate. A measurement of the opening would be awesome. Thank you.

The opening is approximately 6.5" x 2.5" but it is best to have a 75-76 blister cover in hand to make a template. I just test mounted my pump in my retrofit opening yesterday. Pics below and here's a link to my process for cutting the opening. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2652159

And if I were the OP, I'd do as others have suggested and put it in the steering rack area the same as the factory specified for pump relocation per recall. That's where mine was when I bought my car and it worked find in that location..

Thank you. I'll have a look at the rack area

[914werke]

Could one of you guy's post a few pics for 75-76 fuel pump access opening and plate.

If anyone is interested I have that panel cut from a donor car + cover that I would let go, but you gotta be ready to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

[Jamie]

Moved the pump from behind the firewall to the front compartment. Sits on a shelf and has a removable plexiglass cover do nothing snags.

Very neat looking job, what is the source of that spare tire?

[Jamie]

I went through this over the winter. My car is a 1970 1.7. Years ago the PO had a mechanic mount the 3 port pump up front by zip tying it to the steering rack. It was a mess.

I redid all of the fuel lines using Chris Foley's tunnel lines and his fuel pump mount. This provides great access to the filter and pump but I had a heck of a time getting the lines routed and all of this to fit without kinking the fuel line. It's working now though and I've got a few hundred miles on it.

The pic is in process. I couldn't find one with it all hooked up but this will give you an idea of what I did.

I eliminated a lot of extra hose and potential kinks by bending U forms from metal fuel line tubing. Makes a very neat installation possible.

[bkrantz]

Thanks, everyone. I have gone ahead with my idea to mount the pump under the tank, on the right side, with a hope I can pull the pump if necessary through the big round access hole.

To make that possible I drilled a half inch hole in the "floor" above the steering rack. This allows a screw driver to reach the bolt on the pump clamp.

[bkrantz]

Here's the hole from above.

More pics when I get this done.

[914_teener]

What do you all think of this location for mounting my new pump in the front?

Besides space, I have some other goals:

1. Avoiding mounting on any sheet metal shared with the passenger compartment.
2. As much protection as possible.
3. Short fuel line runs between the tank, filter, pump, and hard lines.
4. Access to the lines without pulling the tank.
5. Access to the pump without pulling the tank.

My proposed location probably does not satisfy goal 5 (maybe), but otherwise I like it.

Don't put it under the tank or the rack cover.

All goals including 5 can be had by putting it just behind the firewall behind the passenger seat on the engine compartment side. It's not near the exhaust and you can easily get to it to inspect the filter and run minimal flexible fuel lines. If there is an issue with the pump, you can easily get to and and no Rube Goldberg arcs with the fuel line to kink to try to hit the fuel line opening in the tunnel.

Mount it with some rivnuts and the stock threaded bushings.

Did a thread on it many many moons ago.

Good luck...you did ask for advice.

[bkrantz]

What do you all think of this location for mounting my new pump in the front?

Besides space, I have some other goals:

1. Avoiding mounting on any sheet metal shared with the passenger compartment.
2. As much protection as possible.
3. Short fuel line runs between the tank, filter, pump, and hard lines.
4. Access to the lines without pulling the tank.
5. Access to the pump without pulling the tank.

My proposed location probably does not satisfy goal 5 (maybe), but otherwise I like it.

Don't put it under the tank or the rack cover.

All goals including 5 can be had by putting it just behind the firewall behind the passenger seat on the engine compartment side. It's not near the exhaust and you can easily get to it to inspect the filter and run minimal flexible fuel lines. If there is an issue with the pump, you can easily get to and and no Rube Goldberg arcs with the fuel line to kink to try to hit the fuel line opening in the tunnel.

Mount it with some rivnuts and the stock threaded bushings.

Did a thread on it many many moons ago.

Good luck...you did ask for advice.

Comments appreciated. In my previous life episode with 914s I tried to get both a street car and race car to work with fuel pumps in the engine compartment (stock location and elsewhere), and never had 100% success. In both cars I ended up with the pump up front, which also makes sense (to me) as pushing the longest distance instead of "pulling", more like relying on gravity.

[iankarr]

Looks like a great spot. Only thing I’m curious about is whether the lines will kink since they’re making a sharp turn in a limited space. I guess you can always get around that by coiling a longer length. Great work as always...

[914_teener]

Looks like a great spot. Only thing I’m curious about is whether the lines will kink since they’re making a sharp turn in a limited space. I guess you can always get around that by coiling a longer length. Great work as always...

Under the rack requires more coiling of the flex line then under the tank.

The problem with under the tank is just that....It's under the tank. It only took me taking the tank out two times and I never wanted to do it again.

The other thing about cutting more holes in that area is...unless there is a cover...is that area creates a structural diaphram for the front end.

In my engineer mind....I don't like that idea.

As far as the OP comments about pushing fuel instead of pulling it....the engineers designed that loop for the fuel induction it was using. So.....if you are using different induction then the fuel loop matters as does the type of pump yuo are using. I would NOT put the pump up front without replacing the tunnel lines with SS or steel lines at the very least.

[ClayPerrine]

I have mounted 914 fuel pumps in the location shown in the first picture. It works great. And unless it is full, I can have the tank out in 15 minutes. Only problem I had with putting it there was kinking a suction hose.


I also use an Airtex pump for the factory Fuel Injection. Never had a failure yet.

Clay

[914_teener]

I have mounted 914 fuel pumps in the location shown in the first picture. It works great. And unless it is full, I can have the tank out in 15 minutes. Only problem I had with putting it there was kinking a suction hose.


I also use an Airtex pump for the factory Fuel Injection. Never had a failure yet.

Clay

Yep...I agree...works fine:

1. So long as you know while you are putting it in and unless you are doing it with two people to assure yourself that you are not kinking the line and unless you've drained the tank...it works great.

Like I said..consider the fuel pump you are using and the lines.

[bkrantz]

Looks like a great spot. Only thing I’m curious about is whether the lines will kink since they’re making a sharp turn in a limited space. I guess you can always get around that by coiling a longer length. Great work as always...

Under the rack requires more coiling of the flex line then under the tank.

The problem with under the tank is just that....It's under the tank. It only took me taking the tank out two times and I never wanted to do it again.

The other thing about cutting more holes in that area is...unless there is a cover...is that area creates a structural diaphram for the front end.

In my engineer mind....I don't like that idea.

As far as the OP comments about pushing fuel instead of pulling it....the engineers designed that loop for the fuel induction it was using. So.....if you are using different induction then the fuel loop matters as does the type of pump yuo are using. I would NOT put the pump up front without replacing the tunnel lines with SS or steel lines at the very least.

Thanks. I agree about cutting more holes in any original design, but in this case I am not too worried about a new 1/2 inch hole.

And yes, I have replaced the tunnel lines with SS tubing.

[Highland]

I think if you take a look at the later model cars, there is a cut out of the front wall at the tank, with a stock cover that may suit your needs better.
I mounted mine in the front trunk on the passenger side to provide simple access to change filter elements.

Is this location above the bottom of the tank pick-up? Could this cause a problem if you're running near empty?

[robkammer]

Those are some great shots of pump relo's. I'm just getting into my new BB and found that the pump relo looks pretty sketchy. I have a lot of other things to address first but will get to the pump reset before too long. As things sometime happen, I've only driven the car around my shop building and not on the road. Have the brakes out and off to PMB for rebuild and a cryoclean guy coming out this week to give it a bottom cleaning.
My fuel pump is below the tank, next to the master cylinder, I've attached a pic. IMO it's got way too much going on with lines and wires and zip ties for me to be confident of the install.
The electrical feed is coming from below the engine compartment through the tunnel. I need to at least redo the connectors. Is there a better way to power the pump?
Thank for any input.

[robkammer]

Thanks everyone! Great feedback and good pics too. At this point I'm going to tie it back up right where is is just so I can drive the car once I have brakes back in. PMB has the calipers now. The pump is mounted with rubber mounts that seem to be through bolted into the passenger compartment. So it mounted well, just messy.I dropped the pum and filter to allow access for the Cryocleaning guy, and the air pressure popped the wires off the pump. Fortunately I had taken a picture beforehand that clearly shows how they were attached.
Just to be sure I checked continuity to the wires I assumed were feeding the pump and they are. However, two things have me wondering: when disconnected to the pump, both leads show continuity to ground.
So then I checked Haynes, in the drawing the wire that leads to the grounding post is the wire that was connected up front to the pump post that is called out as + in the drawing a few pages back in the manual.
I don't currently have a battery installed but will put the old battery in just to confirm which is truly the hot lead.
That leads to another question: does it matter which terminal gets the positive and ground? I've always believed a dc motor will run in reverse if the polarity is reversed. Don't think reverse would let it run very well.
And one more question: The square filter is pretty bulky, what other filters are folks using that will help tidy this mess up and at the next installation?
Thanks again everyone.

[rgalla9146]

I do know about the stock 75-76 location on the left side, but I prefer not to cut an access hole in the bulkhead. With my proposed location, I might be able to remove the pump through the existing big round hole.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
That can be removed easily if both fasteners are through the big hole panel.
Move it down a bit.
Include enough hose to allow it to be removed through the hole with hoses attached.
I did it that way.

[rhodyguy]

Any sort of service, like changing the filter, results in a fuel bath. That plenty of room gets smaller when working from below. Pulling fuel lines one handed thru the hole is one thing. Getting them back on is another. Working blind. I never found pulling a drained tank that much of a hassle. Let line coil naturally and lay in the bottom. Long enough to access the clamps by raising the tank.

[Van B]

Reviving this thread because it comes up in search results.

Is anyone reproducing the late model cover and bracket setup? @914werke has been out of stock on his covers for a while. But I also don’t see any brackets around. Before I start cutting and welding, I want to be sure theres not a ready made option out there.

[FJ1200]

A little late to the party, but here you go

https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP318P