New shop, new lift Options

[Dr Evil]

I finally got my own two post lift for this shop. I live near a distributor and it was fair priced so it was a simple matter of prep and pay. The old barn that now houses EvilWerks has a floor that was supposedly poured in 1974, per the marks left attesting to such. However, its a barn, and it is a hodgepodge of things so I was not confident in the thickness of the concrete when I drilled a few pilot holes to check thickness. So, new footers were done.

Measure out locations, and mark 3x3' spots.


With the hose running, and using the saw my new neighbor was able to lend us, cut on the lines.


Beat the hell out of the cut section, find out that there is one 2" floor poured over another variable depth floor. Feel good about decision to pour new footers.


Drill holes into existing floor and epoxy rebar, lash screen to rebar.


Mix and pour concrete. Messy job all around, but worth it and cost maybe $300 for rental of a mixer and supplies. Neighbor also had the epoxy so didnt have to buy, as well as some rebar.


Install 9000# Triumph lift. This one is the one that fit. Still needs to be wired up, but I have not had time. Now, I can have customers drop off their car and I can remove and install, test, etc here at home.

[914Sixer]

All right, your getting there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[914forme]

Contact for the distributor, I need a new lift.

Closest one I knew was Greg Smith over in Indy

[AmjadY]

Very Nice. Congrats on the lift. You will love it! and smart decision on the re-pour of the concrete.

Jed

[Dr Evil]

Contact for the distributor, I need a new lift.

Closest one I knew was Greg Smith over in Indy

https://nationalautotools.com

[Spoke]

Looking good. How deep did you make the concrete footers?

[FourBlades]

Very nice!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Looking good. How deep did you make the concrete footers?

8"

[AZBanks]

Very Nice! Congrats

[76-914]

Mesh to rebar? Why not rebar to rebar? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[horizontally-opposed]

Looks good. Two-post lift…the stuff of dreams to many a weekend hobbyist, this one included.

[wonkipop]

Mesh to rebar? Why not rebar to rebar? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

because you cut the mesh out to cut the hole in the concrete. it goes out with the concrete you cut out.

the rebar you can see are "ties" epoxied into the slab to tie the new mesh in the new pads to the old slab.

no other way to do it.

very similar to how you tie two separate concrete slab pours together.
though they often weld or tie the mesh to those rebar joiners.
and the joiners are often more a tube with a bar slipped inside.
but its hard to do that with an existing slab

its done properly. it will work. the pads look big enough.
though my engineer would probably make me do pads about 450mm deep.
foot and a half.
but engineers do like to use a lot of concrete.

does that make sense.

[930cabman]

You have 3'x3'= 9 square feet at 8" thick, all is good. How long will you let the new concrete cure?

[Dr Evil]

You have 3'x3'= 9 square feet at 8" thick, all is good. How long will you let the new concrete cure?

It cured for two weeks or so over the holidays waiting for installers for the lift. I wasn’t in a rush. The company said I needed only 4.5”, but I didn’t like that. 8” better and not all that much more.

[76-914]

Mesh to rebar? Why not rebar to rebar? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

because you cut the mesh out to cut the hole in the concrete. it goes out with the concrete you cut out.

the rebar you can see are "ties" epoxied into the slab to tie the new mesh in the new pads to the old slab.

no other way to do it.

very similar to how you tie two separate concrete slab pours together.
though they often weld or tie the mesh to those rebar joiners.
and the joiners are often more a tube with a bar slipped inside.
but its hard to do that with an existing slab

its done properly. it will work. the pads look big enough.
though my engineer would probably make me do pads about 450mm deep.
foot and a half.
but engineers do like to use a lot of concrete.

does that make sense.

I've cut a lot of slabs and whenever we cut one that has rebar we tie rebar back into it. We drill 3" deep holes midway into the concrete walls angled slightly down, insert a piece of rebar about long enough to reach 3/4's the span of the cut then bend it down until horizontal. The same is repeated for the opposing side. Then the 2 pieces, now running alongside one another, are tied together with wire. This is repeated @ ~12" intervals. No epoxy. We do the same when cutting across driveways as they are load bearing. Even if the original pour used mesh. I suppose you can get away with using mesh if the soil is stable. Cheers!

[Root_Werks]

Now that is done right! How cool!

[TonyA]

Looks good to me. I liked all the comments on re-bar and mesh so I had to put my 2 cents in also. It all doesn't mean squat if the concrete in mixed way to wet, it will just flake off the top and just crumble away.

[bigkensteele]

Did you move again, or is that a separate property from your house? What ever happened with the garage you were wanting to build?

[930cabman]

It's all engineering and it sounds as though you had one. From my perspective, I may have NOT connected the existing slab. Let the slab move around and let the foundations for the lift stand alone with an expansion between. Only .02

[914forme]

Thanks for the link I found them.

4 post for me if I get a larger lift, my other German cars have some fill procedures that make me a bit uneasy when working under the car with it running, and 3 tons 7 feet in the air.