What Have I Done, Hello, I'd like to introduce myself Options

[mteovr]

Hello 914World -

This is Michael, also known as "That naive guy who bought a Porsche 914 project car to bring back to life while documenting the process on YouTube and HotCars.com."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-3nypC_odI&t=27s


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-3nypC_odI


I've been lurking here on 914World for about a month since I bought the pile of parts. Happy to find so much knowledge and camaraderie, you've already provided me with optimism and inspiration in spades.

As you can see from the video and some of my articles, if you feel inclined to take a look, I clearly need professional help. And I mean both mechanically and psychologically, which is why I'm hoping to rely on the similarly afflicted fans of Porsche's maligned mid-engined masterpiece.

All alliteration aside (or not), glad to be here and please stop me if I'm doing something wrong before I hurt myself or others!

Thanks

[mteovr]

Thanks all for the comments and advice already!

Since I filmed the vid, have done much more internet sleuthing, deduced the extra engine crossbar is for the side-shift conversion, and already planning to have the calipers rebuilt by PMB.

Placed a few orders with 914Rubber for interior and bushings and etcs, planning to have the motor and side-shift trans rebuilt by pros, especially as unsure what all is going on in there and absolutely zero records from previous owner.

@Charles Freeborn - excellent to learn about European Motorworks, will contact them immediately. My priority is getting the mechanicals sorted balancing between budget and performance as much as possible. Then move on to cosmetics and correctness over time. For the engine rebuild, had been previously debating Brothers VW Machine Shop in Ontario or BajaWorx in Yucca Valley. For transaxle was planning to drive it down to California Motorsports in Havasu. Trying to keep it as local as possible, but do you know where Dr. Evil might be located?

@mark04usa - great to know about the shift linkage cover and horn, have ordered new shocks all around, plus mounts, bushings, etc for the rear to get that done before the drivetrain returns.

@Jonathan Livesay - already tugged out one of the axles in the vid. That was entirely unexpected, though, you shoulda seen my face! But good advice for the stubs, will get on that ASAP, thank you.

@coondog - no, but I'm close to Hesperia and there's someone on Craigslist selling lots of 914 parts there, perhaps this is Vince? In the plans to get in touch.

@bbrock - don't like the sound of that, uh oh!

@all - the warm welcome helps a lot and please keep the advice coming. I'm an absolute amateur and this will no doubt take much longer and cost much more than expected, so anything and everything that can save me headaches is greatly appreciated.

[bbrock]

@bbrock - don't like the sound of that, uh oh!

Ha! I wouldn't lose any sleep. So far the car looks fantastic and if you had major repair work to do, it would already be obvious. My prediction is the worst you are likely to find on that car is maybe a jack point or two to repair or replace (no big deal) and a few spots of rust bubbling under the floor tar that can be treated and sealed before they grow into a larger problem. If it was already bad, I think you'd be seeing some evidence on the bottom side.

One other thing from your vid. Those positive battery cables are actually stock. They are the power supplies for the main harness. You are missing the large positive cable with traditional lead clamp from battery to starter. Those mystery cables bolt to the side of the lead clamp via a little terminal block. 914Rubber sells repros of the block.

You should be dancing a jig for having a 914 that solid to work on! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[mteovr]

@bbrock - don't like the sound of that, uh oh!

Ha! I wouldn't lose any sleep. So far the car looks fantastic and if you had major repair work to do, it would already be obvious. My prediction is the worst you are likely to find on that car is maybe a jack point or two to repair or replace (no big deal) and a few spots of rust bubbling under the floor tar that can be treated and sealed before they grow into a larger problem. If it was already bad, I think you'd be seeing some evidence on the bottom side.

One other thing from your vid. Those positive battery cables are actually stock. They are the power supplies for the main harness. You are missing the large positive cable with traditional lead clamp from battery to starter. Those mystery cables bolt to the side of the lead clamp via a little terminal block. 914Rubber sells repros of the block.

You should be dancing a jig for having a 914 that solid to work on! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

The jack points are obviously hard to show when the car's up on the lift but amazingly, they're all pretty pristine. It's truly wild how some things on the car are in great shape and some aren't. The battery cables and block/clamp unit could very well be in the parts pile somewhere, will have to scour the web for what they actually look like. So far a perfunctory Googling doesn't ring any bells. But can't trust my memory...

Also, any advice on a solvent for the floor mat tar? Or just a good scrubbing?

@all - I'm keeping every and all suggestions as a list in a spreadsheet, so please, keep 'em coming!

[bbrock]

Also, any advice on a solvent for the floor mat tar? Or just a good scrubbing?

It can be a tough call whether to remove the tar but here is why I would always remove for an extensive resto. My floor was rusted badly and it was obvious by looking from the bottom the floor would need replaced. But notice the rust forming at the bottom of the bead channel to the left of the drain plug.



That area looked solid from the bottom of the car and the tar looked pristine and well-adhered on top. However, removing the tar revealed surface rust forming underneath. I cannot say if the same kind of surface rust would be found in a car with a fully solid floor, or how long it would have taken for that surface rust to cause any problems. But with the amount of time I spent restoring the car, removing the tar and knowing I was starting with a clean floor would have been worth the minimal time spent even if the floor was otherwise pristine. A plus is it gives an excuse to replace the tar with a modern constrained layer sound deadening product like Noico.

The best way I've heard for removing the tar is to toss dry ice on the floor and bust the tar up with a hammer. @TINKERGINEERING has hands down the best video you will ever see on the subject (notice the rust under her tar too):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CkzsJjp6yI


I went a different route and it wasn't bad. I used a heat gun and putty knife but you don't want to melt the tar. Instead, you just warm it up enough you can pry it off with a putty knife. When you get the temp right, it comes up in big flakes.

[mrholland2]

Also, any advice on a solvent for the floor mat tar? Or just a good scrubbing?

It can be a tough call whether to remove the tar but here is why I would always remove for an extensive resto. My floor was rusted badly and it was obvious by looking from the bottom the floor would need replaced. But notice the rust forming at the bottom of the bead channel to the left of the drain plug.



That area looked solid from the bottom of the car and the tar looked pristine and well-adhered on top. However, removing the tar revealed surface rust forming underneath. I cannot say if the same kind of surface rust would be found in a car with a fully solid floor, or how long it would have taken for that surface rust to cause any problems. But with the amount of time I spent restoring the car, removing the tar and knowing I was starting with a clean floor would have been worth the minimal time spent even if the floor was otherwise pristine. A plus is it gives an excuse to replace the tar with a modern constrained layer sound deadening product like Noico.

The best way I've heard for removing the tar is to toss dry ice on the floor and bust the tar up with a hammer. @TINKERGINEERING has hands down the best video you will ever see on the subject (notice the rust under her tar too):


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CkzsJjp6yI


I went a different route and it wasn't bad. I used a heat gun and putty knife but you don't want to melt the tar. Instead, you just warm it up enough you can pry it off with a putty knife. When you get the temp right, it comes up in big flakes.

So this is ultimately cool. One of the (if not the) currently youngest members is now an example for a new member on how to do stuff. . I don't know about y'all, but I think that's terrific!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)