"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
mbseto |
Feb 26 2021, 01:58 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
In my experience, fitting a patch takes about the same amount of time regardless of the size of the patch. So three small patches might take three times as long as one big patch that covers the whole area.
I also like the idea of minimizing welds, which is what you get from a larger patch. And in these layered areas, avoiding having a weld in one layer lined up with a weld in another layer. Of course I picked up all this from the more experienced guys on this forum. |
Root_Werks |
Feb 26 2021, 05:15 PM
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#3
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,315 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
In my experience, fitting a patch takes about the same amount of time regardless of the size of the patch. So three small patches might take three times as long as one big patch that covers the whole area. I also like the idea of minimizing welds, which is what you get from a larger patch. And in these layered areas, avoiding having a weld in one layer lined up with a weld in another layer. Of course I picked up all this from the more experienced guys on this forum. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've learned from others over the years replacing larger pre-made sections can be less work than patching a number of smaller areas. Plus, it just looks cleaner in the end. Grinding.....grinding, ugh. |
worn |
Feb 26 2021, 08:51 PM
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#4
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
In my experience, fitting a patch takes about the same amount of time regardless of the size of the patch. So three small patches might take three times as long as one big patch that covers the whole area. I also like the idea of minimizing welds, which is what you get from a larger patch. And in these layered areas, avoiding having a weld in one layer lined up with a weld in another layer. Of course I picked up all this from the more experienced guys on this forum. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've learned from others over the years replacing larger pre-made sections can be less work than patching a number of smaller areas. Plus, it just looks cleaner in the end. Grinding.....grinding, ugh. Thanks to all who replied. The way the rust worm turns it seems that all of the rust ends up at the overlap pieces that made up the original. Both inside and outside longitudinal pieces were in turn made up of inner and outer sections. The spot welds produce a wonderfully strong unit. In my case each and every piece has the last couple of inches rusted off. That is why I have started down the road of restoring each end one at a time. Just spent a day in a frozen garage trying to avoid setting my car harts on fire. Making progress. My big problem now is dealing with the moat of metal on either side of the weld beam. Pictures tomorrow but the basic problem comes when trying to grind the welds flat. Bright middle, with dark edges, and then bright surroundings. The area around the weld has shrunk. Any solutions? Thanks folks! |
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