"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
mbseto |
Feb 26 2021, 01:58 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,253 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States |
In my experience, fitting a patch takes about the same amount of time regardless of the size of the patch. So three small patches might take three times as long as one big patch that covers the whole area.
I also like the idea of minimizing welds, which is what you get from a larger patch. And in these layered areas, avoiding having a weld in one layer lined up with a weld in another layer. Of course I picked up all this from the more experienced guys on this forum. |
Root_Werks |
Feb 26 2021, 05:15 PM
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#3
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Village Idiot Group: Members Posts: 8,315 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
In my experience, fitting a patch takes about the same amount of time regardless of the size of the patch. So three small patches might take three times as long as one big patch that covers the whole area. I also like the idea of minimizing welds, which is what you get from a larger patch. And in these layered areas, avoiding having a weld in one layer lined up with a weld in another layer. Of course I picked up all this from the more experienced guys on this forum. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've learned from others over the years replacing larger pre-made sections can be less work than patching a number of smaller areas. Plus, it just looks cleaner in the end. Grinding.....grinding, ugh. |
worn |
Mar 19 2021, 05:52 AM
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#4
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Typically the right side of the car has less rust on the long. An unfortunate surprise is not this time. The car was originally purchased by a Baltimore Colts player, reportedly for his wife. You would think such a person would be able to park the car in a garage, but the rust shows that the car was parked slightly nose upwards in the rain. And of course by 2008 when I bought it, it was just a used car.
Starting the patch from the inside. Cutting away the bad like a layer cake. This shows the inside strengthening piece with the congregation. The diagonal edge is the original end of the piece. I have cut away the captive nut for the seat belt. The strengthening piece is thicker than the outside layer of the long. I am using 14 gauge for the inner and 18 gauge for the outer. Both just slightly thicker than the original. This is mostly done with a hammer and a vise, but I had to cheat a bit at the curved ends and cut and welded to get the deep shape. I maybe could make the thin outer pice by hammer forming, but with the 14 gauge I wouldn't have a chance. They have to nest in order to get the plug welds to be strong. I still have a ways to go to get them right. Then they go back in like a layer cake. |
worn |
Mar 26 2021, 09:32 AM
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#5
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The inner strengthening piece holds the seat belt point. The metal around the nut had deteriorated so a new strap was fabricated to hold the nut.
And welded in. And then the 14 gauge piece goes on with seam welds to the existing inner piece of the inner long. The seam is part way up, and I was glad to get the corrugations to line up. |
worn |
Mar 26 2021, 09:45 AM
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#6
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The outer shell of the inner long is thinner: 18 gauge is what I am using to match what I think corresponds fairly closely to the original 19 gauge.
Here it is being shoved into place. And welding has started to complete this side of the long The two parts are supposed to nest together with spot welds joining them. This produces a lot of strength. I used the inner piece as a strong anvil to completely form the outer shell to the inner. This works well, but leaves some small hammer marks. I found perforation in the driver side engine shelf, so I cut half of it away. I am tempted to try to duplicate it with a hammer, but the easier move would be to dial Canada. Also, smarter move even though I find metal forming the most fun of the whole project. Along with welding. The grinding and the dirt and the working upside down: not so fun. Welding upside down in leather and gloves and hood and swathed in a welding blanket is kind of surreal; sort of like sensory deprivation with sparks flying. |
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