"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
worn |
Apr 6 2022, 02:53 PM
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#2
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I have some advice to those who try this sort of thing. It has probably been mentioned by others: if you are going to paint the car after rust repair, strip the paint first. You never know what you might find underneath. Second piece of advice: Think about ways to get the project up and off the ground higher than jack stands. You can probably get a lot of the cost back on a rotisserie if you sell it afterwards, and in the meantime you get the full benefit.
In my case I found rust underneath the paint that made me get out the welder again. And I also waited too long to get the vehicle up on the lift, although for awhile the lift was occupied by the 911. Here goes the paint. The wire brush will take away seam sealer - and move it all over the place. I knew about the trunk floor, and in front I am replacing part of the floor altered by long gone AC. But I didn't know about the sails. Shown with fabricated patches. and the driver side. Nor the area around the vents on both sides. |
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