"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
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"elluva a hole. Still welding after all these years..., latest -did the factory run out of jacking doughnuts? |
worn |
Feb 24 2021, 10:40 AM
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#1
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
See last post. Welding and rubber sealant removal coming to the end. Thanks.
Haven't been very active for a couple of years. Partly because the 911 has taken up my time. So I am finally getting around to rust repair on my '76. The floors have rusted through so I have been working on the layer cake that makes up the right side longitudinal, focused on the hell region. The rust has affected both the inner pieces as well as the outer ones, and it is concentrated where all of the pieces come together. I have cut away the pitted and perforated metal. My question is as follows. I am addressing the problem by restoring each piece to produce a longitudinal as it came from the factory. For example. In this case I made a piece to restore the tab of the forward inner layer of the outside long. Then I added a piece to restore the rear inner layer piece the overlaps: Then I have made a patch for the outer wheel house piece to produce the outer layer. The patches are butt welded to good metal on the original pieces and shaped to reproduce the originals. Here is the question. Is this really best practice? For example, instead of making a bunch of pieces that join together to match the original I could use a single sheet that replaces them all at once. With fewer butt welds and seams. My method so far has been heavily influenced by threads from people I admire here on the world. You folks make nice welds. |
bkrantz |
Apr 6 2022, 08:21 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,753 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
You're not the only one who got started, found more trouble, and had to back up and go deeper.
And I strongly endorse a rotisserie for any serious body work. Even stuff "on top" is easier when the car can be rolled on its side. |
worn |
May 23 2022, 09:58 AM
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#3
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The trunk floor supplied by RD is made for the earlier cars. 75-76 models had spring loaded bumpers to withstand small impacts without damage. That means at each side the floor of the trunk steps up. If I just install the new piece as is I will loose considerable trunk space. The reshaping requires that I first flatten out the little ribs pressed into the floor at the sides and then reshape to match the old.
Here is the frame that ties the bumper to the floor and other structures. And here is what it looks like outside with the spot welds drilled out I want to get different parts against the anvil so I had to get a bit funkifized with the string. Here is what it looks like |
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