Throttle cable broken, Where the purchase new one (914 Rubber is out). Options

[HansJan]

Ok. It was my turn to break down.
The throttle cable broke.
I was able to crank up the idle and limp to work.

Looking to buy new cable, so I can get back on the road.
914Rubber is sold out. Where can I buy a new one (for carbureted car with X-bar linkage).

Auto Atlanta might have them, but with them you never know when to expect the parts.

[BillJ]

you can try pelicanparts.com I bet they will have it. But with your location AA is closest if you need to get back on the road right now

[Root_Werks]

When you find a place that has some in stock, buy two and one clutch cable. Always keep spares in your 914.

[bbrock]

I just ordered a custom length accelerator cable for my carbed car directly from Terry Cable. I called on a Tuesday and they shipped it that Friday.

I'm getting ready to order another because even at 4" longer than stock, it isn't quite long enough for stock routing including the little orange canvas loop near the battery tray. Without going through that loop, it will work fine but I like my loop and want to use it. So as soon as I figure out the right length, I'll order another and keep this one as a spare.

[ClayPerrine]

Call @partguy22 (Aaron) at Zims. 817-267-4451. He will get a cable out to you next day air.

Zims is in Texas same as you.

Clay

[HansJan]

Finally I find the time to install the cable I bought from Pelican (I didn't see the message about my fellow Texan, until after I already ordered the part).

When tightening up the locking nut the stupid thing broke off. Now the car will have to remain on blocks even longer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Also noted that the cable is too short to install it stress free and without sharp bends. So will be looking for longer version.

Because y'all like pics.

[bdstone914]

Finally I find the time to install the cable I bought from Pelican (I didn't see the message about my fellow Texan, until after I already ordered the part).

When tightening up the locking nut the stupid thing broke off. Now the car will have to remain on blocks even longer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Also noted that the cable is too short to install it stress free and without sharp bends. So will be looking for longer version.

Because y'all like pics.

What brand cable was it ? I like Gemo. I have heard complaints about Terry cables that they use fewer strand that are larger in diameter and have more drag sometimes resulting in delayed return.

@HansJan

[HansJan]

What brand cable was it ? I like Gemo. I have heard complaints about Terry cables that they use fewer strand that are larger in diameter and have more drag sometimes resulting in delayed return.

It was the new Gemo cable that broke the fitting upon install.
Not sure about the original cable that broke.

[HansJan]

Also found that the pedal is not resting on the pedal-stop.
It’s an aluminum aftermarket pedal, which is apparently too short.

[Mark Henry]

Yeah that part can break if even slightly over tightened. BTDT way back when I first got my teen 20 years ago.
I was able to catch both broken ends with the base nut and IIRC that cable is still on my car.

[scottthephotog]

Finally I find the time to install the cable I bought from Pelican (I didn't see the message about my fellow Texan, until after I already ordered the part).

When tightening up the locking nut the stupid thing broke off. Now the car will have to remain on blocks even longer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Also noted that the cable is too short to install it stress free and without sharp bends. So will be looking for longer version.

Because y'all like pics.

Ooof. I've had that happen. As Clay said, Zim's can send you a new one pretty quickly. They are my parts guys.

[HansJan]

Ooof. I've had that happen. As Clay said, Zim's can send you a new one pretty quickly. They are my parts guys.
[/quote]


You think they have longer ones?

[HansJan]

Seems that this easy repair is becoming a challenge.

I ended up buying a cable from Terry Cable. Zim's only had the standard (Gemo) cable, but I was looking for a longer one. So I got a cable 6" longer then standard.

The member that mentioned that Terry cable has fewer (but thicker) strands is correct. But that is not my main beef. The Terrry cable came without the sleeve around the part of the cable that goes through the tunnel. No I worry that it will rub against something inside the tunnel and cause premature failure.

Can some one from this braintrust confirm if it will rub against something, or if its safe to install as is?

PS: Would it be wise to lube this cable? Or would it cause sticking at later stage?

[Sycolyst]

Following....same issue. I drilled out a bolt and MIG welded a nut to the end of the cable that broke only to install in car and find out the cable was compromised internally not allowing the pedal to return. Plus I could use something longer as well. I'm thinking about a snowmobile cable that starts as one and splits into a dual cable for my shitty hex bar linkage. Still playing......

[Olympic 914]

Have you checked the Porsche dealers?

That's where I bought my last one.

Don't remember the price. It has the internal sleeve, the outer housing is white.

[HansJan]

Now I have really done it.
This 'easy' throttle cable replacement became a major issue.

Not knowing if the Terry Cable (the one they send me, that does not have a sleeve around it for the section thats in the tunnel) I went to install it. Just to see if it would work.
Without the sleeve I assumed that the cable it not stiff enough, so I wanted to install a pull-rope. I tied a pull-rope to the end of the cable that Pelican Parts send me (the one where the threads broke upon install) and pulled it through the tube. At least that was the plan. It got stuck inside the tube. I guess the rope together with the end-fitting is too much to fit through the tube. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now I really do not know what to do. I removed the middle seat and tunnel cover. Then part of the center console and the shifter assembly. But I still cannot see the end of the tube.

Oh... Did I mention that the pull-rope broke..?

Please please help, before I do some more stupid stuff.
Does anyone here have a picture that shows how I can see and reach the end of the guide-tube? I'm just hoping that the end-fitting is still sticking out somewhat.

Alternatively I could pull much harder on the cable from the bulkhead. But changes are that it get worse.

[ndfrigi]

how about spending something like this and you can use it for various projects.

[Tdskip]

Oh man, hate when this stuff snowballs.

[bbrock]

I think I would try gently jerking the accelerator cable to try to slowly dislodge it and coax it back out the way it went in. If the worst happens and a chunk of the pull rope remains lodged in the tube, you could try pushing it out with a piece of #9 wire. If that doesn't work, chuck the wire in a drill and clip the opposite end at an angle to form a long, flexible drill bit (you can also use a length of electrical fish tape) to chew through the remaining rope. Once you get the tube clear, the Terry cable can be fed through without a pull cord. I did it just a couple weeks ago.

Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mikey914]

Pretty sure I have most of the parts needed to fabricate these.
I can let you know Wednesday.
I had started down this path some time ago, and would be able to do some custom lengths too.

I'm at the day job til then.

If so I could get you one in a day or two.

Mark