D-jet idle - one issue thats not been solved, low idle on start up for a few minutes hot or cold...... |
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D-jet idle - one issue thats not been solved, low idle on start up for a few minutes hot or cold...... |
DRPHIL914 |
Apr 6 2021, 06:04 AM
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#1
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,758 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
here is my set up, - its a '75 2.0 d-jet with very fresh and new in past 2 years everything,
,tested proper functioning AAr, CHT is the new 914rubberone, but same issue with my NOS one, no vac leaks , rebuilt throttle body MPS(ive tested 2 others one rebuilt by Jeff B same issue), etc etc , 123 distributor, anywayhere is what i have going on- i think i am around 1000 for a good steady idle, if its lower than that warmed up, then i cant get it to idle decent when cold for the first 2-3 minutes, even with AAr open, same with a hot start after running for a while, then shut off and turned back on after sitting foor a few minutes, heat sink on the CHT maybe, i have a feeling the resistance of the CHT is not correct, it is a NOS correct CHT but i am thinking about adding that resistor to the cht line- any thoughts? i have to feather or hold the pedal down just a bit for a minute or 2 then it comes up. like i said perfect idle around 950-1000 once on for a while or even stopped at light after running for a long time idle is perfect EXCEPT after turned off for a bit then back on-- Phil |
Olympic 914 |
Apr 6 2021, 12:00 PM
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#2
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Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
My engine regularly gets head temps into the 300's
Also like Rob and Clay stated it will rarely idle cold until it has run for a for minutes. Odd thing is if its REALLY cold like 30's it will idle then. But I have gotten in the habit of shutting it off for a moment to close the garage door, etc. then heel and toe it at the first two stop signs, to keep it running. After that it is fine for the rest of the drive. BTW i believe you should not be using Synthetic 20/50, recommended a high zinc conventional 20/50 oil be used. JMHO. |
ClayPerrine |
Apr 6 2021, 02:21 PM
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#3
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,410 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
BTW i believe you should not be using Synthetic 20/50, recommended a high zinc conventional 20/50 oil be used. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The 914 engine needs high zinc motor oil. Synthetic doesn't have that. Clay |
DRPHIL914 |
Apr 7 2021, 05:54 AM
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#4
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,758 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
BTW i believe you should not be using Synthetic 20/50, recommended a high zinc conventional 20/50 oil be used. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The 914 engine needs high zinc motor oil. Synthetic doesn't have that. Clay i may have misspoken about synthetic, i currently run 20-50 VR-1 Valvoline not sure if its part-synthetic or dino but it has the zppd, i also have used Driven and PennGrade, so i sould be ok on the zinc right?? @ClayPerrine @Olympic_914 btw, drove to work today, outside temp was 55-60 and 30 minute 30 mile ddrive, drove most of the way at 63-65 mph as my 4th gear gives me about 3600rpm at 65, and my head temp were 285 on flat cruising, but varied in some stop and go and accel from 260 - 290, so with proper gearing i wil be just fine , . if i went up to 70 temp went to 305-310, and would go a bit higher if went into that 5th ZD gear with lower Rpm, - the tool kit is on the way and i will be swaping back in the stock 4&5 next weekend. Phil |
ClayPerrine |
Apr 7 2021, 06:25 AM
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#5
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,410 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
i may have misspoken about synthetic, i currently run 20-50 VR-1 Valvoline not sure if its part-synthetic or dino but it has the zppd, i also have used Driven and PennGrade, so i sould be ok on the zinc right?? You are good. VR1 is pure dino oil with high zinc. I run the same oil in the 4.0, even though it doesn't need the high zinc. In the six and in the 74, I run straight 50 weight Valvoline VR1. The high zinc is good for the motors, and the high viscosity helps in the Texas heat. Clay |
DRPHIL914 |
Apr 7 2021, 06:34 AM
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#6
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,758 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
i may have misspoken about synthetic, i currently run 20-50 VR-1 Valvoline not sure if its part-synthetic or dino but it has the zppd, i also have used Driven and PennGrade, so i sould be ok on the zinc right?? You are good. VR1 is pure dino oil with high zinc. I run the same oil in the 4.0, even though it doesn't need the high zinc. In the six and in the 74, I run straight 50 weight Valvoline VR1. The high zinc is good for the motors, and the high viscosity helps in the Texas heat. Clay Thanks Clay, BTW i took your advice a few years ago and had that aux oil cooler put on and i really dont have an issue with oil temps now. should i consider this- the straight 50 weight as well for this summer if i drive more in heat this year? we get that same heat, i think i have a case of DT50 Driven that i had not used, or just go to FLAPS for Valvoline? |
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