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> Easy way to install Master cylinder reservoir tubes
pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 06:58 PM
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I was reading somewhere here about how difficult it is to get the tubes from the reservoir into the grommets on the master cylinder. I greased them up with caliper assembly lube and they slipped in as easy as a 50 year ol....well lets just say they went right in.
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mepstein
post Apr 7 2021, 07:11 PM
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Did you include the metal washers?
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pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 07:16 PM
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There are no washers. The incoming lines are flared and go into already installed rubber grommets.
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pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 07:20 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 7 2021, 07:11 PM) *

Did you include the metal washers?

I'm confused are you talking about the master cylinder or the 50 year ol......
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infraredcalvin
post Apr 7 2021, 07:23 PM
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I’ve done this several times and have struggled with it, but when they finally go in, it seems super easy. There is definitely finesse required, i forget and fight with it, my hand is a tad too fat so its super frustrating, then I have to take a deep breath and relax, then it ends up slipping right in, then the next one is equally as smooth.
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infraredcalvin
post Apr 7 2021, 07:25 PM
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QUOTE(pcdarks @ Apr 7 2021, 06:20 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 7 2021, 07:11 PM) *

Did you include the metal washers?

I'm confused are you talking about the master cylinder or the 50 year ol......

There are metal washers that go in at the base of the MC, underneath the rubber grommets...

My MCs have always come with washers and grommets pre installed....
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mepstein
post Apr 7 2021, 07:34 PM
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QUOTE(pcdarks @ Apr 7 2021, 09:16 PM) *

There are no washers. The incoming lines are flared and go into already installed rubber grommets.


There are washers and they are 100% needed.


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bkrantz
post Apr 7 2021, 07:43 PM
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Assuming this is for a replacement MC, I think the easiest way is to detach the tubes from the reservoir, shove them down at least 6 inches, and install the tubes into the MC before mounting it to the bulkhead.
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pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Apr 7 2021, 07:25 PM) *

QUOTE(pcdarks @ Apr 7 2021, 06:20 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 7 2021, 07:11 PM) *

Did you include the metal washers?

I'm confused are you talking about the master cylinder or the 50 year ol......

There are metal washers that go in at the base of the MC, underneath the rubber grommets...

My MCs have always come with washers and grommets pre installed....

Rubber grommets were installed on mine also. It would be foolish to remove them to check. If you do while your at it be sure to pull the MC pistons and check them too.
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pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 07:46 PM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Apr 7 2021, 07:43 PM) *

Assuming this is for a replacement MC, I think the easiest way is to detach the tubes from the reservoir, shove them down at least 6 inches, and install the tubes into the MC before mounting it to the bulkhead.

Don't need to the assembly grease makes it so easy.
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bbrock
post Apr 7 2021, 07:53 PM
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I also used brake assembly lube and pulled them on using a brake flare wrench (a trick I picked up from a member on another thread). Also, the grommets that came with my 914rubber MC leaked. It could have been operator error but the ATE grommets I bought from Porsche to replace them seemed to be a heftier rubber and have worked fine. And yes, I had the washers installed, and yes, they are needed.
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pcdarks
post Apr 7 2021, 08:11 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 7 2021, 07:53 PM) *

I also used brake assembly lube and pulled them on using a brake flare wrench (a trick I picked up from a member on another thread). Also, the grommets that came with my 914rubber MC leaked. It could have been operator error but the ATE grommets I bought from Porsche to replace them seemed to be a heftier rubber and have worked fine. And yes, I had the washers installed, and yes, they are needed.


Explain how you used the brake flare wrench. Vague descriptions with no details do no one any good. This will be an easy thread for the next person looking to find

914 rubber has quality parts, my guess is operator error

Interesting note when I pulled my original 17mm MC there were no washers in it but it managed not to leak for the last 24 years that I had it.

The reason I posted this was to make a thread that would be easy to find with a search of "master cylinder". When I searched it it came up with over 1000 threads. If Master cylinder was mentioned it came up in the results. This topic title makes it easy to find.
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914werke
post Apr 7 2021, 08:16 PM
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bbrock
post Apr 7 2021, 08:32 PM
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QUOTE(pcdarks @ Apr 7 2021, 07:11 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 7 2021, 07:53 PM) *

I also used brake assembly lube and pulled them on using a brake flare wrench (a trick I picked up from a member on another thread). Also, the grommets that came with my 914rubber MC leaked. It could have been operator error but the ATE grommets I bought from Porsche to replace them seemed to be a heftier rubber and have worked fine. And yes, I had the washers installed, and yes, they are needed.


Explain how you used the brake flare wrench. Vague descriptions with no details do no one any good. This will be an easy thread for the next person looking to find

914 rubber has quality parts, my guess is operator error

Interesting note when I pulled my original 17mm MC there were no washers in it but it managed not to leak for the last 24 years that I had it.

The reason I posted this was to make a thread that would be easy to find with a search of "master cylinder". When I searched it it came up with over 1000 threads. If Master cylinder was mentioned it came up in the results. This topic title makes it easy to find.


This thread comes up as the second hit on google searching for: "914world.com:master cylinder grommet" and is titled "Master Cylinder Grommet Seating Tool" The link above goes directly to the tip I read on the flare wrench. The process is pretty simple. Drop the washer into the MC. Slip the grommet over the flare fitting. Put a light smear of brake assembly lube around the grommet. Reach up with the flare wrench so it is around the flare fitting above the grommet and pull down until the grommet pops into place.
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mepstein
post Apr 7 2021, 08:43 PM
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QUOTE(pcdarks @ Apr 7 2021, 10:11 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 7 2021, 07:53 PM) *

I also used brake assembly lube and pulled them on using a brake flare wrench (a trick I picked up from a member on another thread). Also, the grommets that came with my 914rubber MC leaked. It could have been operator error but the ATE grommets I bought from Porsche to replace them seemed to be a heftier rubber and have worked fine. And yes, I had the washers installed, and yes, they are needed.


Explain how you used the brake flare wrench. Vague descriptions with no details do no one any good. This will be an easy thread for the next person looking to find

914 rubber has quality parts, my guess is operator error

Interesting note when I pulled my original 17mm MC there were no washers in it but it managed not to leak for the last 24 years that I had it.

The reason I posted this was to make a thread that would be easy to find with a search of "master cylinder". When I searched it it came up with over 1000 threads. If Master cylinder was mentioned it came up in the results. This topic title makes it easy to find.

Chances are the washers were there but corroded into the bottom of the unit. They are not optional.
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bbrock
post Apr 7 2021, 08:53 PM
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Oh, and I'm a huge fan of 914Rubber and have bought almost every item in their catalog. They are not perfect though. I have a list of parts I've purchased from them that simply do not work. Just a pertinent example here. The MC I bought from them leaked around the Welch plug because it wasn't pressed in properly. Mark confirmed that they found a few in the first run with the problem and gave me a generous store credit for my trouble of having to pull it out of the car to repress the plug. He would have also replaced the MC of course but that was the easier route for me.

They are a great company that stands by their products, but are certainly not perfect and do bring items to market before they are fully tested sometimes. I'm not trying to bash them. To the contrary. I think it is praiseworthy that they are willing to take the risk to develop these products for us at very reasonable prices, and stand by their products even when things don't go as planned. Another example, at this moment they are working through some issues with the new roll bar pads.

I can't say for sure what the problem with the grommets was, and can't rule out operator error, but don't assume that just because a part came from a trusted vendor, any problems must be the user's fault. I've had problems with several of their grommets that are made of silicone instead of the much stiffer rubber that OEM parts are made from. Just one example, the grommets to mount the dash instruments I got from them were worthless. Kind of hard to fuch that installation up. So yeah, I have suspicions about those MC grommets. All I can say is the dimensions matched the OEM grommets but the material felt softer and more flexible than OEM. The OEM grommets popped in with a satisfying snap that I never got from the ones that came with the MC.
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IronHillRestorations
post Apr 7 2021, 09:14 PM
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If the grommets went in really easily, the washers are probably not in there.

If you don't have washers under the grommets, you have a greater probability of leaks.

It's your brakes, don't take chances.
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wysri9
post Apr 7 2021, 10:27 PM
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Another thread that maybe saved my life.....I need to check those washers are in there before I get any brake fluid involved in my build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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brant
post Apr 8 2021, 08:31 AM
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hopefully there are metal washers under your newly installed lines

without them you will find a leak later
and potentially loose your brakes... hopefully not at the most important time
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Steve
post Apr 8 2021, 08:49 AM
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I just went through this. The rubber bushings were trashed and broken on Brandons V8 car. We were hoping to fix it with the Master Cylinder in the car. No way in hell... Pulled the master cylinder, installed the new bushings into the master cylinder without the hoses. The washers were still their. Using glycerin we pushed and turned until the flared fitting was under the bushing. It's obvious when the flared part is under the bushing, it will rotate freely. Install master cylinder and hoses back in the car. Replace top hoses between reservoir and lines, bleed brakes drive car...
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