Easy way to install Master cylinder reservoir tubes Options

[pcdarks]

If the grommets went in really easily, the washers are probably not in there.

If you don't have washers under the grommets, you have a greater probability of leaks.

It's your brakes, don't take chances.

The lines went in easy because I used assembly lube to install them. Grommets were already installed when the unit arrived. I didn't pull them out to check as this could possibly damage them in the process. Cars is driving and stopping just fine. No leaks.

[Morrie]

Oh, and I'm a huge fan of 914Rubber and have bought almost every item in their catalog. They are not perfect though. I have a list of parts I've purchased from them that simply do not work. Just a pertinent example here. The MC I bought from them leaked around the Welch plug because it wasn't pressed in properly. Mark confirmed that they found a few in the first run with the problem and gave me a generous store credit for my trouble of having to pull it out of the car to repress the plug. He would have also replaced the MC of course but that was the easier route for me.

They are a great company that stands by their products, but are certainly not perfect and do bring items to market before they are fully tested sometimes. I'm not trying to bash them. To the contrary. I think it is praiseworthy that they are willing to take the risk to develop these products for us at very reasonable prices, and stand by their products even when things don't go as planned. Another example, at this moment they are working through some issues with the new roll bar pads.

I can't say for sure what the problem with the grommets was, and can't rule out operator error, but don't assume that just because a part came from a trusted vendor, any problems must be the user's fault. I've had problems with several of their grommets that are made of silicone instead of the much stiffer rubber that OEM parts are made from. Just one example, the grommets to mount the dash instruments I got from them were worthless. Kind of hard to fuch that installation up. So yeah, I have suspicions about those MC grommets. All I can say is the dimensions matched the OEM grommets but the material felt softer and more flexible than OEM. The OEM grommets popped in with a satisfying snap that I never got from the ones that came with the MC.

Hi Brent,

I realize this is a super old post. Agree on the great customer service at @914Rubber. My car has tons of their stuff on it. My first "EZ Install" MC from them leaked from the welch plug as you mentioned. Even though I bought it new when they first came out, they replaced it no questions asked with another one and gave me some goodies to boot. All would be great except the second one from them seeps from the plug just like the first.

Did you just put yours on a bench and press the welch plug in further with a vise or tap with hammer? (I have a vise, a press, etc...) At this point I will have to go back to the new ATE I have and fight the lines... I just don't want to hassle with it if I don't have a reasonable shot at sealing this one up... Appreciate your thoughts!!

[bbrock]

Oh, and I'm a huge fan of 914Rubber and have bought almost every item in their catalog. They are not perfect though. I have a list of parts I've purchased from them that simply do not work. Just a pertinent example here. The MC I bought from them leaked around the Welch plug because it wasn't pressed in properly. Mark confirmed that they found a few in the first run with the problem and gave me a generous store credit for my trouble of having to pull it out of the car to repress the plug. He would have also replaced the MC of course but that was the easier route for me.

They are a great company that stands by their products, but are certainly not perfect and do bring items to market before they are fully tested sometimes. I'm not trying to bash them. To the contrary. I think it is praiseworthy that they are willing to take the risk to develop these products for us at very reasonable prices, and stand by their products even when things don't go as planned. Another example, at this moment they are working through some issues with the new roll bar pads.

I can't say for sure what the problem with the grommets was, and can't rule out operator error, but don't assume that just because a part came from a trusted vendor, any problems must be the user's fault. I've had problems with several of their grommets that are made of silicone instead of the much stiffer rubber that OEM parts are made from. Just one example, the grommets to mount the dash instruments I got from them were worthless. Kind of hard to fuch that installation up. So yeah, I have suspicions about those MC grommets. All I can say is the dimensions matched the OEM grommets but the material felt softer and more flexible than OEM. The OEM grommets popped in with a satisfying snap that I never got from the ones that came with the MC.

Hi Brent,

I realize this is a super old post. Agree on the great customer service at @914Rubber. My car has tons of their stuff on it. My first "EZ Install" MC from them leaked from the welch plug as you mentioned. Even though I bought it new when they first came out, they replaced it no questions asked with another one and gave me some goodies to boot. All would be great except the second one from them seeps from the plug just like the first.

Did you just put yours on a bench and press the welch plug in further with a vise or tap with hammer? (I have a vise, a press, etc...) At this point I will have to go back to the new ATE I have and fight the lines... I just don't want to hassle with it if I don't have a reasonable shot at sealing this one up... Appreciate your thoughts!!

Hi @Morrie ,

To be honest, I would use your ATE MC which is what I'm planning to do after this driving season is over. After another member posted a pic of internals of a disassembled 914R MC, I noted several differences between it and my original ATE. I don't know if those differences will affect reliability, but the part is too mission critical to take chances. I think I read that you had to cut the plastic supply lines to install the EZ option. That sucks because those lines are WAY more of a PITA to install than snapping them into the MC using the original grommets. After learning the tip of using the flare wrench to install the grommets, it was literally a snap.

But to answer your question about the plug. I don't have a press so I used a socket in my vice to fully press the plug in place. I think it was 11mm but don't remember for sure. After I was confident the plug was fully pressed in and seated around the perimeter, I filled the recess with JB Weld just for extra measure. No leaks after almost 7K miles.

[Chris914n6]

My new 914rubber M/C leaks too. The tubes seem a little loose in the grommets, specially compared to the Uro grommets I used when the factory grommets deteriorated in my original.
It arrived pre-assembled so I assume it has washers.
It only leaks drops so I haven't gotten back into it yet.

FYI, I unbolted the reservoir so I could pull the hoses down enough to get a good grip on them with the M/C not bolted to the car.

I also used brake assembly lube and pulled them on using a brake flare wrench (a trick I picked up from a member on another thread). Also, the grommets that came with my 914rubber MC leaked. It could have been operator error but the ATE grommets I bought from Porsche to replace them seemed to be a heftier rubber and have worked fine. And yes, I had the washers installed, and yes, they are needed.

[mgphoto]

When attaching the rubber grommets after installing the stainless steel washers, I use a long needle nose pliers with a 90 degree bend, I cover the jaws with green body tape, to prevent marring.
Position the grommet in the correct opening with the pipe attached, avoid squeezing the pliers to much, using the bend in the pliers pull down on the grommet until it pops into place. Takes maybe 3 minutes to do.

[Morrie]

Hi Brent,

I realize this is a super old post. Agree on the great customer service at @914Rubber. My car has tons of their stuff on it. My first "EZ Install" MC from them leaked from the welch plug as you mentioned. Even though I bought it new when they first came out, they replaced it no questions asked with another one and gave me some goodies to boot. All would be great except the second one from them seeps from the plug just like the first.

Did you just put yours on a bench and press the welch plug in further with a vise or tap with hammer? (I have a vise, a press, etc...) At this point I will have to go back to the new ATE I have and fight the lines... I just don't want to hassle with it if I don't have a reasonable shot at sealing this one up... Appreciate your thoughts!!


Hi @Morrie ,

To be honest, I would use your ATE MC which is what I'm planning to do after this driving season is over. After another member posted a pic of internals of a disassembled 914R MC, I noted several differences between it and my original ATE. I don't know if those differences will affect reliability, but the part is too mission critical to take chances. I think I read that you had to cut the plastic supply lines to install the EZ option. That sucks because those lines are WAY more of a PITA to install than snapping them into the MC using the original grommets. After learning the tip of using the flare wrench to install the grommets, it was literally a snap.

But to answer your question about the plug. I don't have a press so I used a socket in my vice to fully press the plug in place. I think it was 11mm but don't remember for sure. After I was confident the plug was fully pressed in and seated around the perimeter, I filled the recess with JB Weld just for extra measure. No leaks after almost 7K miles.

That is the direction I am leaning towards also, unfortunately. I had "heard" that the 914 was much more difficult to install than the 911. I've done 911 MC several times with no issues popping in the lines. As far as cutting off the metal fittings, yeah, I did that but good news is that I can use the flex lines that 914Rubber supplied to reconnect them. I may still try pressing the cap in better using a socket and a carefully placed C clamp in situ. I'm mainly curious if it moves and if that solves the problem. Other than the small drip, it does work fine.... Anyway, its part of some other work I am doing mechanically now so will look at it and see what happens. Just a bit disappointing.

[Morrie]

My new 914rubber M/C leaks too. The tubes seem a little loose in the grommets, specially compared to the Uro grommets I used when the factory grommets deteriorated in my original.
It arrived pre-assembled so I assume it has washers.
It only leaks drops so I haven't gotten back into it yet.

FYI, I unbolted the reservoir so I could pull the hoses down enough to get a good grip on them with the M/C not bolted to the car.

Hi Chris,

If I am reading your post correctly the MC you got from 914Rubber is not the kind where you cut the metal fittings, just a standard install with rubber grommets. I wonder what they used for a base to build them off of. Possible a URO part? I have heard they tend to leak more often (or did in the past) than the ATE ones, which I personally have not had, or heard of, any issues with, till now of course... because I said this they will start failing (Sorry ATE) because of my fantastic luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[willieg]

Before I bought a 19 mm master cylinder from 914Rubber, I read a lot of comments on 914World about the difficulty of installing the lines from the reservoir, into the m/c. I spent the extra money for the Easy Install m/c and it was incredibly easy, even being on my back, in limited space. No leaks. Rock hard pedal.

[Morrie]

Before I bought a 19 mm master cylinder from 914Rubber, I read a lot of comments on 914World about the difficulty of installing the lines from the reservoir, into the m/c. I spent the extra money for the Easy Install m/c and it was incredibly easy, even being on my back, in limited space. No leaks. Rock hard pedal.

I am willing to bet that almost all of them work great. Mine has a very.... slow.... drip.... and the thing is it has happened on two MCs in a row.

Agree though, the ez install kit is... ez!

[JLance67]

There are no washers. The incoming lines are flared and go into already installed rubber grommets.

There are washers and they are 100% needed.

Hi, what would be the symptoms if the lines were crossed going to the MC? Thanks

[bdstone914]

There are no washers. The incoming lines are flared and go into already installed rubber grommets.

There are washers and they are 100% needed.

Hi, what would be the symptoms if the lines were crossed going to the MC? Thanks

@JLance67
Does not matter as long as the lines are not kinked.

[JLance67]

There are no washers. The incoming lines are flared and go into already installed rubber grommets.

There are washers and they are 100% needed.

Hi, what would be the symptoms if the lines were crossed going to the MC? Thanks

@JLance67
Does not matter as long as the lines are not kinked.

Thanks for the response. I have a 75 with the SB 350 conversion and am having trouble figuring out why my brakes are getting locked up after driving about 1-2 miles. I put a new mc on along with new caliper kit on the front 911 vented brakes. In the process of rebuilding back 914 brakes now. I cannot figure why in the world this is happening. I did have slight brake pad rubbing on the rears but very slight. Do I need a pressure regulator for the brakes? It's like they slowly apply until they completely lock like an E-brake. After sitting about an hour they release. Am totally stumped.

[Superhawk996]

It's like they slowly apply until they completely lock like an E-brake. After sitting about an hour they release. Am totally stumped.

Pedal misadjusted and/or blocked compensation port is likely cause when brakes begin dragging after heating up and will not release until they have cooled.
@jlance67




You should have a pressure regulator for the rear brakes - has nothing to do with the brakes dragging but has everything to do with safety. I won’t go into the details - it has been covered extensively in other threads. It was put there to avoid rear brake bias which is dangerous.