Suggestions for tracking stock 2.0L |
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Suggestions for tracking stock 2.0L |
AndrewBlyholder |
Apr 16 2021, 11:11 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 109 Joined: 20-September 04 From: Richmond, CA Member No.: 2,791 |
I usually race a 914 race car, but it's engine expired at the end of 2019, and the rebuild is still in process. Many custom parts, suppliers on reduced capacity due to COVID, etc....
In the mean time, I started autocrossing my street 914, a solid, but unrestored '74 LE. I had so much fun with that for the 2020 season, I decided to try it out at a DE track event in March. Everything was great, having a ball at Thunderhill (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif), until a rod bearing spun during the 5th run session late in the day. D'oh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) So now I have yet another engine to build before I get back to my race motor project. I plan to keep the rebuild mostly stock, but looking for suggestions to help make the new motor more reliable for DE track use. I finally have all the custom parts in hand for my race motor rebuild and I'm planning on getting that finished up in the next 2-3 months. So my street car probably won't get pressed into track use again soon, but you never know, so why not build something that can withstand some track usage. The previous motor was just what was in the car when I bought it 25 years ago from a local Porsche mechanic. He got it from a client that couldn't pay for some repairs and ended up giving the mechanic the car. But that's all I know of it's history before me, so the pedigree of the motor was completely unknown. Because of that, I always considered the motor sacrificial. I figured I'd run it until it blows up and then build something proper. It took 25 years, but that's where we are now. The motor was a bone-stock D-jet 2.0L. At the track it was running very hot, just under the red zone on the stock oil temp gauge. Air temp was 75. When the bearing spun and the loud noises started, I looked down at the temp gauge and it was solidly in the middle of the red. So more oil cooling is obviously top of the list. I never noticed the oil pressure light coming on, so I don't think I was oil starving it, but I wasn't making a point of specifically checking it and the stock light is small and often blocked from view by my hands and the steering wheel, so I couldn't swear that it actually never came on. While the car is a solid driver now, since it is an LE, I'd like to restore it to show car condition eventually. For that reason, I'll keep the rebuild as a D-jet with a stock external appearance. But I'm open to non-stock internal parts, and any new external systems (like oil coolers, deep sumps, etc.) that are easily reversible. So those of you with some track experience with fairly stock motors, what would you suggest for both rebuild parts and additional systems that will allow a stock D-jet to stand up to DE track use? Thanks, Andrew Blyholder |
brant |
Apr 19 2021, 03:39 PM
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#2
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,632 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
an accusump will solve this problem also
I ran a track 2.0/4 for approximately 10 years as a trailered race car in wheel to wheel with an accusump |
GregAmy |
Apr 19 2021, 04:13 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,311 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States |
an accusump will solve this problem also... Eeeeeee....I am not a fan of using an Accusump to Band-Aid a systemic oiling problem. I know people use them for that, but that's not what they were originally designed for (they were designed for start-up, which is why they typically have shut-off valves, manual or automatic.) I know the manufacturers sell them for oil pickup purposes...but the manufacturers are trying to sell product. An Accusump is a tool to address a momentary problem, that being lack of oil pressure, either on startup or momentary starvation. It is not a permanent solution. Corners are not always momentary, and each time you use the Accusump it has to recharge to be effective the next time. Eventually, be it a single long sweeping corner and/or a series of corners where the accumulator runs out of charge, it'll bite you. Running an Accusump dry has happened to me. I had a oil starvation problem with a Dodge 2.2 and I data acq'd engine oil pressure and Accusump oil pressure, and quickly found that the Accusump just couldn't keep up. The flat bottom of the VW 411/412 engine was never, ever designed for the lateral loads that we're experiencing in racing, and this is exactly why its sibling, the 911 engine, was designed with a dry sump system (which was later carried forward to keep the engine low; go watch the video of the Metzger engine going through dyno testing on a carousel/sled that rotated the thing all ways to Sunday to simulate g-loads). I don't install Accusumps in my race cars; they are a poor tool for a systemic problem. I strongly reiterate a deep sump, increased oil volume, and less-sticky tires. But if you insist...buy the biggest one you can find. And still do the sump and less-sticky tires. |
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