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> Just adjusted valves, car won’t rev past 5k rp, What did I do wrong?
newto914s
post Jul 25 2005, 08:46 PM
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QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 21 2005, 06:58 AM)
THE VERY FIRST THING you do is make sure you have solid lifters. Look at the valve gear and report back. Hydraulic setups most often have solid spacers between the rockers, solids have springs in there.

I don't know where the valve gear is, but those look like springs to me. Is this a good sign for Solid lifter (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif)


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Allan
post Jul 25 2005, 08:52 PM
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Looks like solid lifters to me...
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CptTripps
post Jul 25 2005, 09:02 PM
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I've got a passenger seat free if you don't want to drive yours...
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SLITS
post Jul 25 2005, 09:05 PM
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Here ya go....You either have a shitload of crap in your engine or that exhaust valve is getting real hot (baked on oil and discoloration).....my opinion only

411 / 914, 356 / 912
Surface (includes grinding fin 356 / 912) - Pair............................... $50.00/$60.00
Open for Large Cylinders (411 / 914) - Pair.................................... $ 60.00
Valve Guides Installed (411 / 914) - Each....................................... $ 10.00
Valve Guides Installed (includes guides) -Each............................... $ 10.00
Seats Finished (3 angle) - Each...................................................... $ 10.00
Bead Blast - Each.......................................................................... $ 20.00
Large Valve Seats Installed (411 / 914) (356 / 912) - Each................ $30.00/$35.00
*Complete reconditioning available, Price depends on type of valves used.
Surface - each............................................................................... $ 20.00
Open for Larger Cylinders - Each.................................................. $ 25.00
Valve Guides (includes guides) - Each............................................. $ 12.00
Finish Seats (3 angle) - Each......................................................... $ 10.00
Recondition Complete (no new valves) - Each.................................. $105.00


http://www.rimcovw.com/prod01.htm
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newto914s
post Jul 25 2005, 09:53 PM
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Doug, that passanger seat is starting to look pritty good.
I'm figuring a Grand to send both heads out and get them back ready to bolt on. Is that a realistic figure, too high, or too low. I would actually perfer to rebuild them myself(educational, and cheaper), but have read it's better to have them done by an expert(which I am not)
Sugestions?
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bd1308
post Jul 25 2005, 09:58 PM
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send out. thats what i'm going to do. my heads arent bad, but they are old and original. oh and #1 spark plug hole is bad....
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redshift
post Jul 25 2005, 10:01 PM
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I don't think that valve has closed in a long time.


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bd1308
post Jul 25 2005, 10:04 PM
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wait is that oil baked on the head surface?
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redshift
post Jul 25 2005, 10:07 PM
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Only one way that happens, like that, fire.


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Allan
post Jul 25 2005, 10:08 PM
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When it was all said and done it cost me $855.00 to have both of my heads rebuilt at RIMCO. That included welding up some cracks around the plugs and seats.

I didn't have any shipping charges though.
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redshift
post Jul 25 2005, 10:12 PM
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Can they adjust the valves there? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)


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newto914s
post Jul 26 2005, 12:53 PM
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One finaly question.
What's the worst that can happen if I try to drive it another 100 miles like this? Just to run the last quarter tank of gas out of it. Am I asking for a dropped valve seat? Or worse? I basicly have to start it at least one more time, and figure I might as well run it out. Bad idea ?

For the head work I'm thinking Len Hoffman at HAM inc, if I can afford it, but I guess I should check out RIMCO too.

Thanks guys
Samson
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ArtechnikA
post Jul 26 2005, 01:05 PM
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if it were me, i'd find someone with a lawnmower and a gas can...

are you planning on just getting away with having the heads off? or are you looking to go deeper, to replace rings and rod bearings? if you have the cylinders and pistons out, it'll be a lot easier to look in and see if the cam is in fact OK. there it a reason that exhaust valve failed...
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newto914s
post Jul 26 2005, 01:12 PM
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I'm hoping just head work.
But figured on changing the rings too. Are rod bearings also and easy WYIT?
I'm thinking the valve failed because of worn valve guides, and/or a shotty valve adjustment (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)
The engine only has 32k on a rebuild
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redshift
post Jul 26 2005, 01:33 PM
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No other funky noises, previously?

Hmm.. yeah, maybe the guide. When was the rebuild done? How long ago?



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ArtechnikA
post Jul 26 2005, 01:39 PM
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QUOTE (newto914s @ Jul 26 2005, 03:12 PM)
But figured on changing the rings too. Are rod bearings also and easy WYIT?

they *should* have been replaced as part of the earlier rebuild; even anal-retentive i wouldn't replace them if they had only 32k mi on 'em - and i KNEW they were good.

you have to pull the cylinders to do rings, and with 32k the pistons *should* be pretty easy to remove, although obviously that engine has been working really hard (on 3...). at that point it's pretty easy to pull the rods. it's not easy to accurately measure the crankthrows to make sure you're getting the right bearings (unless you already know if the crank was ground - and how much...) but neither is it horrible.
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