Checking end play on the crankshaft Options

[Zaffer]

I know this question has been asked many times but I want to get a good answer on a particular part of this: I have amounted the flywheel (with no flywheel seal or main seal) and dial gauge (perpendicular to the case). I am using just my hands to move the flywheel to check for endplay (seems to be around 0.002”-0.003”. When I do this, there seems to be a little “bounce” before the flywheel settles. The “bounce” is the flywheel being pulled back slightly or settling after I have pulled it out to take the measurement. Is this normal? The measurement is post-bounce (no force exerted).

Thanks!

[Zaffer]

Anyone? I haven’t found any answers to this question.

[IronHillRestorations]

The quick and easy way is to pry the flywheel rearwards, and clamp a vise grip to one of the transmission mounting studs so that one of the rivets on the visegrips is against the vertical lip of the flywheel. Then push the flywheel in toward the front of the engine and measure the gap between the rivet and flywheel with a feeler gauge.

The best way is with a Z block and a dial indicator.

[rfinegan]

You should hear and feel a "clunk" or "click" as the crank shaft moves to its ends. Measure for @rest minimum to a @ rest maximum. (or max to min)both will work, but use no pressure/no load in either direction.
Some will start with only 2 shims and measure end play. The using basic math calculate what is need to get your desired spacing. Install calculated spacer and retest.

I did this with all dry shims and no seals and tested again wit hill and shims in place as a final test

[Zaffer]

@rfinegan :
Thanks for the info! That is exactly the information I was looking for. I did perform the measurements in the at rest positions, not in the applied pressure positions as I was pretty sure that is what was supposed to happen.

I did not use any prying implements to attain the different positions as none were needed, but I will give that method a try as well to see if I get different results.

I am getting around 0.0025” - 0.003” of movement, but will confirm this weekend. I believe the specs are 0.003” - 0.005”. I am using a dial gauge perpendicular to the case, mounted on the surface of the flywheel, and zero it out every time. Definitely a tight tolerance, but so are most engine specs. Is it better to be towards the lower end of the range due to wear over time as the engine is run?

Thanks for the info. and I’ll post a reply once I confirm my measurements.

[rfinegan]

I also used a small dead bow hammer to move the crankshaft to its "ends" once from the flywheel side and once from the front crank hub side to seat the crank to the bearing and to seat and center the bearings . no prying. This technique works well for the Double Cam thrust bearing too.

I did hear the the looser engine specs are good for High reving engines
Less likely to burn up bearings with the addition clearance for oil? (take with a grain of salt)

[Jake Raby]

With no shims, or seal fitted the flywheel should have a longitudinal travel of .036-.040" (1mm)
If the figures are not within this range something is up with the #1 main bearing, the crankshaft, and or the flywheel.. OR all of the above has seen a deviation and the tolerances have stacked up.
If you have more or less than this, you'll need to make alterations to get the target of .003-.006" of end float using a mix of 3 shims.

Shims that are cupped from wear create varying end float, and must be avoided.

Some rear main seals will hit the face of the 914 flywheel and this will appear to be a lack of end play, when the difference really is the seal. Be careful with this!Using a sharpie on the face of the seal to see if the mark is altered by the flywheel is a test I always do when setting end play on a 914 engine. Some seals are too thick, or some may need to be installed more deeply into the case to avoid this.

Above 170HP I tend to run more longitudinal crankshaft travel, I shoot for .006" at minimum in these scenarios.