Lead substitue in body work Options

[doug_b_928]

I asked the local autobody supply about substitutes for the lead that was on the thin flange of the door handle recess in the rear quarters and at the join of the tail section to the quarters (I haven't stripped the front clip yet so don't know if there's any lead on the front). Among the options, the one that looks best to me is FIB889 Metal-to-Metal Aluminum Reinforced Filler. See TDS here: https://www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/origin...L_1_2015_EN.pdf. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this product and if you think it's an appropriate replacement for the lead used on our cars.

[IronHillRestorations]

No plastic or epoxy filler has the tensile strength of lead

edit

I'm not a body guy, but I've done a little. I do like the All Metal epoxy type filler, but a lot of pro body guys don't care for it. I'd be OK using there in the jamb though.

[Superhawk996]

Eastwood offers a lead substitute - zinc, tin, and copper instead of 30/70 tin/lead. A little harder to work with (narrower heat working range) than 30/70 traditional lead. Not exactly like zinc fumes are healthier than lead fumes.

Personally, I still use tin/lead when a project demands it. The demise of lead has been exaggerated. Still readily available and it works just fine. If you live in CA I’m sure it comes with large Prop 65 warnings that you shouldn’t eat it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Either way, you traded VOCs risk from plastic filler for lead risk. Neither are healthy and neither pose a significant risk to occasional hobby use. Daily exposure is a whole different animal. Either way- wear a respirator!

[Andyrew]

Ive used evercoats kittyhair and it was a very solid product. Im sure the metal to metal would be similar if you dont like plastic filler's shrinkage.

[doug_b_928]

Thanks for the input, guys. There's so much still to do that I don't think learning to do lead work is on my agenda. So it sounds like the metal-to-metal will work and also kitty hair. I already have Evercoat Fiber Fill which, I think, is similar to kitty hair. Any preferences between these two for this application?

[Andyrew]

Any filler would probably work for filling. If it was me I would just use regular plastic filler.


Kitty hair is very fibrous and difficult to work with. But its very strong. I have it in the corners of my front fiberglass fenders where it meets the cowl. I also used it for direct to fiberglass filling. On top I used regular plastic filler. Still looks pretty good after 10 years.

If your trying to join metal then either use a 2 part epoxy designed for metal to metal or simply weld it. If your trying to fill then pick your poison. I prefer typical plastic filler, a high quality brand (I use UPOL featherweight typically as it sands very nice, then a glazing putty on top of that for any pinholes if there are any).

If your trying to build up larger than 1/4" then I would either move the metal, add metal, or add one of these aforementioned fillers (metal to metal, fiber fill ect)

[76-914]

I've used it on a plane. Never lost adhesion or paint at that spot. It's lightweight too. Lead is good filler for cars. My Karmann Ghia had some on the doors. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[doug_b_928]

I may be wrong, but I think the lead on the flange at the door handle relief and in the intersections of the quarter-tail was for strength. The quarter flange below the door handle relief area was left untouched rather than filled/smoothed. I suppose an alternative would be to weld the flange on the front side and then use filler to feather it out... That reminds me, I don't recall from when I removed the lead on my car, was the flange above the door handle relief left visible or leaded?

[Andyrew]

Im having a hard time visualizing the areas, can you post some pics?

[doug_b_928]

Circled in green are the areas that for sure had lead. I'm not sure about the flanged area above that (circled in red) because that area is thick enough to get plug welds in there.

[bbrock]

Interesting. Mine was brazed in those spots so I borrowed my neighbor's torch and replicated the brazing.

[doug_b_928]

Interesting indeed. Mine was definitely leaded. I’ve never tried brazing and probably shouldn’t learn on this car, but was told by an autobody guy that brass would be a good replacement for lead. Brent, was yours brazed in the area in the red circle as well or just in the green circle?

[Archie]

Circled in green are the areas that for sure had lead. I'm not sure about the flanged area above that (circled in red) because that area is thick enough to get plug welds in there.

The red-circled area on my '72 was brazed all the way along that seam.

[doug_b_928]

Good to know, thanks Archie.