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> Heat/Defrost Mixer Valve Removal, How does this come out ?
jim_hoyland
post Sep 8 2021, 07:19 AM
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How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables.
Any tips will be appreciated…
( see sample photo, not my car )


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barefoot
post Sep 8 2021, 07:46 AM
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This might help: Be very careful

https://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 8 2021, 09:20 AM
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QUOTE(barefoot @ Sep 8 2021, 06:46 AM) *

Thanks, that’s an excellent explanation of where each cable goes; I’m looking for tips on removing the driver side valve with the defroster nozzle attached
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914werke
post Sep 8 2021, 10:14 AM
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QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Sep 8 2021, 08:20 AM) *
QUOTE(barefoot @ Sep 8 2021, 06:46 AM) *
Thanks, that’s an excellent explanation of where each cable goes; I’m looking for tips on removing the driver side valve with the defroster nozzle attached

Jim not really possible. At least Ive never been able to accomplish it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The valve protrudes down through the sheetmetal of the cowl so you have to seperate the valve from the vent by removing the spring clips x2.
BE VERY CAREFUL,
The bakealite /plastic is old & fragile & the .5 posts on either piece that those clip surround, aren't supported well & snap easily. The front one is fairly easy to do but the back one will test your mettle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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IronHillRestorations
post Sep 8 2021, 10:44 AM
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+1 on extreme care with old plastic parts.

You also want to ID the cables and where they connect before you take them off. My first (personal) restoration, I didn't do that and the ventilation controls were not correct for years.
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 8 2021, 11:51 AM
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No problem with the cables: they are sorted out.I am going to pull the mixer, the black valve that sits under the cowling on the driver side. Somewhere I read it’s attached from inside the cabin as well as from the trunk area…
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914werke
post Sep 8 2021, 12:16 PM
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Correct, under the dash are a pair of ovid vents. Those mate to the valve that protrudes through the cowl.
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barefoot
post Sep 8 2021, 02:08 PM
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In re-installing mine, I ground a chamfer on the front bottom of the mixer valve & was able to install with the defrost duct attached. Also remove the little brace next to the mixer & push up on the cowl with a helper.
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 8 2021, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(barefoot @ Sep 8 2021, 01:08 PM) *

In re-installing mine, I ground a chamfer on the front bottom of the mixer valve & was able to install with the defrost duct attached. Also remove the little brace next to the mixer & push up on the cowl with a helper.

Thanks, will do; did it come out easier than the re-install?
I am pulling the fuel tank to gain access and leaving the fresh air into as ke box in place
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 14 2021, 04:15 PM
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Got the valve out, came out pretty easy. The hard part was removing the clips that hold the cable. I’m hoping I can reassemble the valve with deforest nozzle and reattach the cables. Tight fit !
Any tips ?
I did unscrew the bolt to the post.


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914_teener
post Sep 14 2021, 04:19 PM
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Hey Jim.......


I'm in Moab for the next week but I did this one time by myself.


Putting that back on is probably a two person job.


I'd be happy to help you if you like but I'd be back in Cali next week. Let me know.


And....It is harder to get back in then take out unfortunately.

Rob
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 14 2021, 06:34 PM
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QUOTE(914_teener @ Sep 14 2021, 03:19 PM) *

Hey Jim.......


I'm in Moab for the next week but I did this one time by myself.


Putting that back on is probably a two person job.


I'd be happy to help you if you like but I'd be back in Cali next week. Let me know.


And....It is harder to get back in then take out unfortunately.

Rob

Thanks Rob. That’s gonna help( Bob Duffy has volunteered. I won’t try doing it solo.
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PanelBilly
post Sep 14 2021, 09:52 PM
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If I can remember correctly fly I attached the control wires before I bolted the unit to the car.
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DRPHIL914
post Sep 15 2021, 12:11 PM
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QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Sep 8 2021, 09:19 AM) *

How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables.
Any tips will be appreciated…
( see sample photo, not my car )

Jim why are you pulling it out, for cleaning or replacing seals and cables?

Phil
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 16 2021, 04:04 AM
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QUOTE(DRPHIL914 @ Sep 15 2021, 11:11 AM) *

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Sep 8 2021, 09:19 AM) *

How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables.
Any tips will be appreciated…
( see sample photo, not my car )

Jim why are you pulling it out, for cleaning or replacing seals and cables?

Phil


I wasn’t able to get window defrost heat, only floor heat on the driver side. Removal of the valve showed the heat-side flapper was broken in half. How that happened ? No idea.
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Rob-O
post Sep 16 2021, 05:00 PM
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Beyond the loosening of the two bolts that hold the cowl down, you may also want to remove the four nuts under the cowl that hold the dash on. Then inside the car there are two screws in the area by the door (believe knee pad has to come out to access those) to the sides of the vents (assuming a post ‘72 built car). One other bolt under the dash around the heat/vent controls and the whole dash could be moved quite a bit.

Once the dash is moved upwards (or removed completely) it’s amazing how much space there is in that area. It allows you to tilt that mix valve up without the defrost vent hitting the dash or the bottom part of the valve getting caught in the hole in the firewall.
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jim_hoyland
post Sep 16 2021, 05:35 PM
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QUOTE(Rob-O @ Sep 16 2021, 04:00 PM) *

Beyond the loosening of the two bolts that hold the cowl down, you may also want to remove the four nuts under the cowl that hold the dash on. Then inside the car there are two screws in the area by the door (believe knee pad has to come out to access those) to the sides of the vents (assuming a post ‘72 built car). One other bolt under the dash around the heat/vent controls and the whole dash could be moved quite a bit.

Once the dash is moved upwards (or removed completely) it’s amazing how much space there is in that area. It allows you to tilt that mix valve up without the defrost vent hitting the dash or the bottom part of the valve getting caught in the hole in the firewall.


Good Tip !
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