Heat/Defrost Mixer Valve Removal, How does this come out ? |
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Heat/Defrost Mixer Valve Removal, How does this come out ? |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 8 2021, 07:19 AM
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#1
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables.
Any tips will be appreciated… ( see sample photo, not my car ) Attached image(s) |
barefoot |
Sep 8 2021, 07:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,264 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
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jim_hoyland |
Sep 8 2021, 09:20 AM
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#3
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Thanks, that’s an excellent explanation of where each cable goes; I’m looking for tips on removing the driver side valve with the defroster nozzle attached |
914werke |
Sep 8 2021, 10:14 AM
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#4
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 9,889 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
This might help: Be very careful https://914electric.wordpress.com/2011/03/18/take-the-heat/ Thanks, that’s an excellent explanation of where each cable goes; I’m looking for tips on removing the driver side valve with the defroster nozzle attachedJim not really possible. At least Ive never been able to accomplish it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The valve protrudes down through the sheetmetal of the cowl so you have to seperate the valve from the vent by removing the spring clips x2. BE VERY CAREFUL, The bakealite /plastic is old & fragile & the .5 posts on either piece that those clip surround, aren't supported well & snap easily. The front one is fairly easy to do but the back one will test your mettle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
IronHillRestorations |
Sep 8 2021, 10:44 AM
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#5
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,707 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
+1 on extreme care with old plastic parts.
You also want to ID the cables and where they connect before you take them off. My first (personal) restoration, I didn't do that and the ventilation controls were not correct for years. |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 8 2021, 11:51 AM
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#6
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
No problem with the cables: they are sorted out.I am going to pull the mixer, the black valve that sits under the cowling on the driver side. Somewhere I read it’s attached from inside the cabin as well as from the trunk area…
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914werke |
Sep 8 2021, 12:16 PM
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#7
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 9,889 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Correct, under the dash are a pair of ovid vents. Those mate to the valve that protrudes through the cowl.
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barefoot |
Sep 8 2021, 02:08 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,264 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
In re-installing mine, I ground a chamfer on the front bottom of the mixer valve & was able to install with the defrost duct attached. Also remove the little brace next to the mixer & push up on the cowl with a helper.
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jim_hoyland |
Sep 8 2021, 03:36 PM
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#9
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
In re-installing mine, I ground a chamfer on the front bottom of the mixer valve & was able to install with the defrost duct attached. Also remove the little brace next to the mixer & push up on the cowl with a helper. Thanks, will do; did it come out easier than the re-install? I am pulling the fuel tank to gain access and leaving the fresh air into as ke box in place |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 14 2021, 04:15 PM
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#10
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Got the valve out, came out pretty easy. The hard part was removing the clips that hold the cable. I’m hoping I can reassemble the valve with deforest nozzle and reattach the cables. Tight fit !
Any tips ? I did unscrew the bolt to the post. Attached thumbnail(s) |
914_teener |
Sep 14 2021, 04:19 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,193 Joined: 31-August 08 From: So. Cal Member No.: 9,489 Region Association: Southern California |
Hey Jim.......
I'm in Moab for the next week but I did this one time by myself. Putting that back on is probably a two person job. I'd be happy to help you if you like but I'd be back in Cali next week. Let me know. And....It is harder to get back in then take out unfortunately. Rob |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 14 2021, 06:34 PM
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#12
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Hey Jim....... I'm in Moab for the next week but I did this one time by myself. Putting that back on is probably a two person job. I'd be happy to help you if you like but I'd be back in Cali next week. Let me know. And....It is harder to get back in then take out unfortunately. Rob Thanks Rob. That’s gonna help( Bob Duffy has volunteered. I won’t try doing it solo. |
PanelBilly |
Sep 14 2021, 09:52 PM
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#13
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,788 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
If I can remember correctly fly I attached the control wires before I bolted the unit to the car.
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DRPHIL914 |
Sep 15 2021, 12:11 PM
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#14
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Dr. Phil Group: Members Posts: 5,751 Joined: 9-December 09 From: Bluffton, SC Member No.: 11,106 Region Association: South East States |
How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables. Any tips will be appreciated… ( see sample photo, not my car ) Jim why are you pulling it out, for cleaning or replacing seals and cables? Phil |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 16 2021, 04:04 AM
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#15
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
How is that valve removed from under the cowling. My plan is to pull the gas tank for better access first; then replace the driver side heat/defrost valve. The re-install the control cables. Any tips will be appreciated… ( see sample photo, not my car ) Jim why are you pulling it out, for cleaning or replacing seals and cables? Phil I wasn’t able to get window defrost heat, only floor heat on the driver side. Removal of the valve showed the heat-side flapper was broken in half. How that happened ? No idea. |
Rob-O |
Sep 16 2021, 05:00 PM
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#16
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,251 Joined: 5-December 03 From: Mansfield, TX Member No.: 1,419 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Beyond the loosening of the two bolts that hold the cowl down, you may also want to remove the four nuts under the cowl that hold the dash on. Then inside the car there are two screws in the area by the door (believe knee pad has to come out to access those) to the sides of the vents (assuming a post ‘72 built car). One other bolt under the dash around the heat/vent controls and the whole dash could be moved quite a bit.
Once the dash is moved upwards (or removed completely) it’s amazing how much space there is in that area. It allows you to tilt that mix valve up without the defrost vent hitting the dash or the bottom part of the valve getting caught in the hole in the firewall. |
jim_hoyland |
Sep 16 2021, 05:35 PM
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#17
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,225 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
Beyond the loosening of the two bolts that hold the cowl down, you may also want to remove the four nuts under the cowl that hold the dash on. Then inside the car there are two screws in the area by the door (believe knee pad has to come out to access those) to the sides of the vents (assuming a post ‘72 built car). One other bolt under the dash around the heat/vent controls and the whole dash could be moved quite a bit. Once the dash is moved upwards (or removed completely) it’s amazing how much space there is in that area. It allows you to tilt that mix valve up without the defrost vent hitting the dash or the bottom part of the valve getting caught in the hole in the firewall. Good Tip ! |
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