CV joint help needed please, bearings out of position - fell out now what? Options

[DRPHIL914]

Phil - If you can see pitting or feel ridges with your fingernail, it's a problem. Discoloration usually isn't an issue.

@mepstein
Mark, yes its discoloration, i dont feel any ridges. i will take a closer look at the other end too once its off the stub, this was the inside one, at the transmission.. i just watched Ian karr's video and mine does not look like the one he shows with marks and grooves .

Phil

[iankarr]

Arent' those pretty deep grooves in the last pic you posted?

[930cabman]

I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.

[Geezer914]

PMB performance has CV joints but you have to enlarge 2 holes for the roll pins.

[bkrantz]

I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.

After ordering CVs twice from Pelican, they do not fit 914-4 axles, no matter what their description says. The spline count in the center is wrong. (They were cool about refunds.)

[rjames]

You've gone far enough to know you don't want to have to do this job again any time soon. Replace them.

[DRPHIL914]

Arent' those pretty deep grooves in the last pic you posted?

@iankarr
no palpable grooves, discoloration only. similar to the side where you see coloration change but you can’t feel where that color change happens. it’s deceiving in the pictures.

i know it’s tempting to replace them hard to find parts for rebuilding them, ans these were brand new 6 years ago and less than 10k miles. I had new boots , with just the 4 holes not 6, so i used those for this CV, all cleaned up and replaced new grease.

I removed the castle nut, and easily pushed the stub out and man that stub axle was really stuck on that CV, pulled it all apart cleaned up and put new seals on, bolted back together , and is now in the car and mounted up. Your video was helpful! thanks! tomorrow i will be finishing the safety wiring on the CV bolts, and maybe get the HE back on the car, hook up the FI and wiring harness , if all goes well, break in could be Thursday.
Did you do a video on setting rear venting clearance? this left side rotor and pad drags just a bit, i think while this wheel is off i need to do that.

[DRPHIL914]

PMB performance has CV joints but you have to enlarge 2 holes for the roll pins.

I have a couple, one failed completely (with a cracked cage) and another has grooves deep enough to feel. These are precision bearings and must be inspected and assembled with tight tolerances. Scratching, galling any type of damage means the assembly is scrap. From what I can see Pelican has new assemblies, but cannot find anywhere else.

After ordering CVs twice from Pelican, they do not fit 914-4 axles, no matter what their description says. The spline count in the center is wrong. (They were cool about refunds.)

You've gone far enough to know you don't want to have to do this job again any time soon. Replace them.

i looked at pelican, glad you said something about that .
PMB performance, i saw that too, i don’t have time to get them and do all of thst right now, but inwould probably get the Tarett Engineering ones. this was not hard now thst i know i can pull that castle nut and slide it out thst easily it wouldn’t take long to pull both CV and replace them. budget it tight, it’ll have to wait. these were clean and should be fine for 6 months- a year.

[DRPHIL914]

tools for getting the castle nut off, and holding the hub in place , worth Ebrake on too, i used this heavy duty rebar water meter tool, worked great to hold it the T at end being placed on the ground , and the other end holds onto a lug the 2 lugs were covered with tape to prevent any damage to threads.
also i have a 30mm socket with this 2 gt breaker bar that i took the rubber handle off and sipped a piece of galvanized pipe over it to give a longer lever- easy peasy, then some light tapping on the axle end to push it back out of the trailing arm . Bearing looks fine-

[DRPHIL914]

all done

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[iankarr]

Nice! Good work!

[KELTY360]

Happy ending!!…..well, at least a 914 happy ending. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)