repaired long condition?, worth stiffeners/jack replacement? Options

[914lover17]

feel solid, look a little worse in pictures - I'm trying to assess what I'm working with here and any potential ways forward since solid replacement chassis seem pretty rare.

Apparently this was important when I was researching - 2 people can be inside without targa top and doors still close easy and have the same gaps as with targa top on and no one inside.

Repair work was done in the 80's I believe.

Long stiffening kit possible? Worth/possible to replace jackpoints? Right know it's blocks of wood screwed to the solid metal to hold the rocker panel plugs.

[Superhawk996]

This is Pandora's box. Don't open it.

It really is a catch 22. I don't like the look of the work at all but if it's not sagging or flexing, than it's probably functional.

Unless you're handy with a welder, and have lots of patience, this is a money pit to repair it correctly at shop rate of $75 - 100/hour plus the cost or reproduction sheetmetal & paint when done.

The main thing I'd look at is the condition of the longitudinal inner panels and where the seat belt attaches.

Addition of the MadDog inner longitudinal stiffing kit wouldn't be a bad idea but depends on having solid inner longitudinal sheetmetal to weld to. Adds more weight but could help with a belt & suspenders approach to what has already been done to it.

I woudn't mess with the jack points.

The worst thing would be to get in a minor accident and have those seat belt anchors tear free due to rust on the inner panels allowing tear though of the seat belt anchor. If those are sound, I'd probably just drive and enjoy it.

It's sort of like a Model T. You can't expect modern crashworthiness no matter what you do. Once you accept that, it all comes down to functionality.

[mlindner]

+1 superhawk996.

[IronHillRestorations]

I’m in the same camp as @Superhawk996 Correctly repairing that car will be a huge project that might not be worth it. It looks like they tried to replicate the Mayeur longitudinal stiffener. It also looks like there’s a lot of body filler, so simply keeping it roadworthy would be my suggestion

[914lover17]

This is Pandora's box. Don't open it.

It really is a catch 22. I don't like the look of the work at all but if it's not sagging or flexing, than it's probably functional.

Unless you're handy with a welder, and have lots of patience, this is a money pit to repair it correctly at shop rate of $75 - 100/hour plus the cost or reproduction sheetmetal & paint when done.

The main thing I'd look at is the condition of the longitudinal inner panels and where the seat belt attaches.

Addition of the MadDog inner longitudinal stiffing kit wouldn't be a bad idea but depends on having solid inner longitudinal sheetmetal to weld to. Adds more weight but could help with a belt & suspenders approach to what has already been done to it.

I woudn't mess with the jack points.

The worst thing would be to get in a minor accident and have those seat belt anchors tear free due to rust on the inner panels allowing tear though of the seat belt anchor. If those are sound, I'd probably just drive and enjoy it.

It's sort of like a Model T. You can't expect modern crashworthiness no matter what you do. Once you accept that, it all comes down to functionality.

BUT I WANNA OPEN IT, I WANNA OPEN IT!!

haha but in all honesty, I basically maxed out the functionality with my purchase, so that's why all I got left to worry about is the chassis and why I really want it to have a solid one the components deserve.

I plan on owning this car forever (I'm 30 now) and will only be driving it, maybe 30 times per year and never in rain.

It's surprising how clean/functional the components are vs. the amount of repair work done to the chassis.

professionally rebuilt 2.0/engine tranny with original FI by reputable porsche mechanic
unmolested complete original interior with zero cracks and appearance package
like new heat exchangers
original 2.0 exhaust
sway bar
original carpets and mats
chrome bumpers and new rubber tops
100% fully functional, including all latches, lights, and components.

molestation:
electric window washer using original steering column wiper arm
trunk latch solenoid and rear reflector
blaupunkt stereo
drilled rotors and 5 lug wheels
painted targa top

I've been told to cut my losses and get a new car by a few resources, but I really like it so I'll probably double down on my "914 tuition" and look for a new chassis in the long term while leaving this one alone and enjoying it. Mine is originally a 1.7, so it would be nice to be able to match the engine numbers to a 73 2.0 chassis as well.

I paid what I think is a fair price for what it is, so even though I'm not looking to make appreciation, I have some wiggle room going forward.

Thanks a lot for your advice! I'm new to cars so everything is very appreciated.

[914lover17]

I’m in the same camp as @Superhawk996 Correctly repairing that car will be a huge project that might not be worth it. It looks like they tried to replicate the Mayeur longitudinal stiffener. It also looks like there’s a lot of body filler, so simply keeping it roadworthy would be my suggestion

Is that why they are flat as apposed to having the original indents? I have only been able to find one restoration kit like that from research, probably the mayeur you mention, but it's obviously not actually them, looks like it's been done in sections.

[930cabman]

How does it go, "drive it like you stole it"

[914lover17]

How does it go, "drive it like you stole it"

lol, I think you're right.

I have it couped up, waiting to get saftied (needed to install window washers) so instead of driving it I just admire it looking for issues to fix lol

hopefully I'll be doing that by mid week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[SirAndy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Eric_Shea]

This guy always has some of the best advice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Whenever I see those all I can think of is all of the rust that wasn't fixed properly hiding behind them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

This is Pandora's box. Don't open it.

It really is a catch 22. I don't like the look of the work at all but if it's not sagging or flexing, than it's probably functional.

Unless you're handy with a welder, and have lots of patience, this is a money pit to repair it correctly at shop rate of $75 - 100/hour plus the cost or reproduction sheetmetal & paint when done.

The main thing I'd look at is the condition of the longitudinal inner panels and where the seat belt attaches.

Addition of the MadDog inner longitudinal stiffing kit wouldn't be a bad idea but depends on having solid inner longitudinal sheetmetal to weld to. Adds more weight but could help with a belt & suspenders approach to what has already been done to it.

I woudn't mess with the jack points.

The worst thing would be to get in a minor accident and have those seat belt anchors tear free due to rust on the inner panels allowing tear though of the seat belt anchor. If those are sound, I'd probably just drive and enjoy it.

It's sort of like a Model T. You can't expect modern crashworthiness no matter what you do. Once you accept that, it all comes down to functionality.

[jaredmcginness]

I think its fine - just ugly. Look around the inner floor seams for any sign of rust, if you dont find anything, that should give you some piece of mind.

If you want to add jack pyramids, I don't see why it would be an issue. Test fit with your side skirts on, scribe it, and weld into place.

I would recover with rubber undercoat, or at the minimum, black paint. (red isnt a great look there)


The BM kit is flat and sectioned in the rear. I have one of these kits, you could jump on my longs with the doors open if you wanted. (dont do that)


Jared

[mlindner]

When I started my 914-6 GT Tribute I also found the rusted out jack area. Rest of the car in very good condition, floors, trunk, so I just had that area cut out and new welded in. Picture shows the area of rocker. Mark

[Tdskip]

If it is holding consistent door gaps, not necessarily perfect, but not getting any worse just drive it. Have some fun, do some motoring, basically enjoy and use it as a car for a year.

If after that you want to take it off the road and spend 200 hours on it by all means, but the least fun car in the world is one that isn’t drivable because it’s waiting on welding repairs.

[bkrantz]

If it is holding consistent door gaps, not necessarily perfect, but not getting any worse just drive it. Have some fun, do some motoring, basically enjoy and use it as a car for a year.

If after that you want to take it off the road and spend 200 hours on it by all means, but the least fun car in the world is one that isn’t drivable because it’s waiting on welding repairs.

200 hours? I think you left out a zero.

[windforfun]

If it is holding consistent door gaps, not necessarily perfect, but not getting any worse just drive it. Have some fun, do some motoring, basically enjoy and use it as a car for a year.

If after that you want to take it off the road and spend 200 hours on it by all means, but the least fun car in the world is one that isn’t drivable because it’s waiting on welding repairs.

200 hours? I think you left out a zero.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[jaredmcginness]

200 hours? I think you left out a zero.

Yep. My green car is in the realm of 700 hours. At least 10-12 hours a week for about a year. That is turn and burn restructure. Not nearly as in depth as yours!


But it's "fun'!

Jared

[914lover17]

@Superhawk996

Is the inner long viewable from the interior, like the inner door sill under the carpet? Or does the actual inside of the longs have to be inspected to make a proper assessment?

thanks!

[Superhawk996]

Inner longs are indeed visible if you remove the carpet.

Areas of interest:

Pay attention to the area where the seat belt anchor is.

Look at the base where the floor pan attaches

You'll find two oval tar patches that cover two holes that can be removed to allow access for a borescope if you want to inspect the inside. Given the state of the outside of the long, we can pretty much guarantee that the inside of the long isn't pristine. Not uncommong to find rust chips on the bottoms of the longs.

Be on the lookout for fiberglass and/or other 1/2 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) fixes that are cosmetic but don't have structural integrity. My own car had a ton of fiberglass on the floorpan hiding rust and other issues.

Focus on assessing structural integrity of that seat belt anchor.

[Shivers]

Door gaps look Ok, like others have said, go out and drive it. Mine was 10 years old when I had to replace the battery tray and support...Just rusted away and sagging, battery was bungee'd in place . So assume there is rust and collect sheet metal for the future. Looks nice, have fun

[Front yard mechanic]

Instead of talking how compromised it might be ... Talk about how great it is and fun to drive with a for sale sign in the window (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)