Seeking advice for -6 oil cooler, too many options! Options

[mepstein]

Just a note from someone whom has a 2.4 s spec engine with no engine cooler and the cooler deleted like mepstein links. I ran all summer in stop in go traffic 90 plus degree days with no issues. Worked perfectly for me. I run a big RSR sized cooler up front though. No fans

Fans are easy to add later if you need them.
Ben has a good handle on this stuff.

[lesorubcheek]

Just a note from someone whom has a 2.4 s spec engine with no engine cooler and the cooler deleted like mepstein links. I ran all summer in stop in go traffic 90 plus degree days with no issues. Worked perfectly for me. I run a big RSR sized cooler up front though. No fans

Fans are easy to add later if you need them.
Ben has a good handle on this stuff.

Agree Mark. Ben is actually the reason that's pushed me decide to go with this -6 vs sticking in a 283 Chevy. When he offered the great deal on the -6 sheet metal and then the oil tanks, that's what tipped the decision for me. Couldn't help but look at this a a sign.

It's all becoming fairly clear, but still confused on a few issues. Biggest question remaining is how to deal with the present engine thermostat. Assume it's best for oil to flow all the time through the new filter. With the thermostat, it'll flow straight to the engine until warmed, and then divert to the filter. I've found posts over on Pelican and Rennlist that show swapping the thermostat for a 964 and or 993 part that fits where the thermostat would go. Looks like this part has a couple of variations with one extending down into the case to block off the upper port (seems right) and another that just sits on top since it looks like newer cases were machined without the passages for straight oil. Both have threaded openings for sensors. I guess the part that extends will work, but is it easier to modify the thermostat so it'll just stay in the fully opened position?

Dan

[lesorubcheek]

Likely this will be common knowledge for many members here, but wanted to share findings regarding the thermostat. Received a very helpful explanation from Mr. Fricke at Pelican and here's the deal.

They're pretty easy to disassemble. Found a socket that would fit inside and used a clamp to depress the spring, then use a pick to remove the snap ring. Here's the thermostat disassembled.


The thing that makes it all works is the plunger on the top of the piston that's marked Magic!. Haven't found any specific details, but assume this is using the wax method where heat melts a wax inside. In this case it causes the inner plunger to extend when heated.

In the "cool" position, the plunger is pressed in by the force from the lower spring and the piston is in the fully upward position. The upper cavity is open, and the lower closed, so all oil passes directly to the main oil galley and none to the cooler.


When the oil heats up, the magic plunger extends, pushing against the lower spring and forcing the piston to move downward. When fully extended, the upper cavity is closed and the lower cavity is fully open so all oil passes through the cooler. In normal operation the piston is gonna be somewhere in the middle modulating up and down and keeping the oil temperature close to a constant temperature, assuming of course the cooler has adequate capacity.


The goal is to have the thermostat in the position where all oil goes through the cooler (or future to be filter). One option is to buy the 935 bypass plug that has been mentioned numerous times, but don't have a part number and so far can't find one. It looks like 930 107 767 02 sensor cap may work (not sure this is the same as the bypass plug mentioned or not), but I haven't read anywhere for sure to confirm this part fits, and it'll have two sensor holes on top that'll need to be plugged, plus they're around $100. If I had a tig, the upper cavity could be filled in, but unfortunately don't have one. After a little thought, all that's really needed is a means to keep the piston in the position where the main oil galley cavity is closed and the cooler/filter cavity is open. It just so happens that 1" conduit fit perfectly inside the top of the piston. Jackpot! Measured and found it needed about 30mm (1.18") length to act as a block so the piston was always in the lower position.




This acts the same as the plunger being in the fully extended position. The only other thing I'd like to do is find a shorter and weaker spring for the bottom since the original will be compressed tightly with the piston in this position.

Dan