A more advanced Oil Cooler Question |
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A more advanced Oil Cooler Question |
aveale |
Jul 27 2005, 06:53 AM
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#1
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Fun Times Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 18-August 04 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 2,563 |
Hey,
whilst removing my oil cooler nuts the studs started to come loose. if i remove these studs, can I remove the entire cooler AND is it a BIT*% to get these studs back in place? A good chance to clean things up and replace the seals........? I just don't need another nightmare right now. T |
groot |
Jul 27 2005, 07:13 AM
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#2
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
"More advanced?"... okay...
Are you working underneath the car or is the engine out? It doesn't matter too much, but it's a lot easier to access with the fan housing off. I haven't run these studs in a few years. I replaced them with small bolts. So, to answer your question, it's possible to remove the studs and it's certainly possible to re-install them. If your engine is out and the fan removed, it will be very easy. |
aveale |
Jul 27 2005, 07:28 AM
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#3
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Fun Times Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 18-August 04 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 2,563 |
The "more advanced" tag was to grab peoples attention - kind of true and kind of worked.
The engine is out. My prob with removing the fan housing is fiddling with the engine tin. My screws are quite rusty and I don't want to start another problem. I guess replacing the studs with bolts would make life alot easier. Thanx for your reply, would love to hear more before I get all greasy, sweaty and mad. T |
Jake Raby |
Jul 27 2005, 08:13 AM
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#4
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Those studs are designed to stretch under temp and not over crush the seals, rendering them useless.
The factory used those studs for a reason and every time I have replaced them with a bolt, I have found out why. If you notice my DTM kits that relocate the stopck oil cooler still use those studs and an adaptor to attach the cooler to the adaptor- this is because the stretch is an important factor in a no leak situation. Everything is done for a reason.... If you snap off the studs I have thousands of them. |
aveale |
Jul 27 2005, 08:56 AM
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#5
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Fun Times Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 18-August 04 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 2,563 |
Now we are talking!!
I still have yet to hear if the cooler will drop after removing the studs though! T |
groot |
Jul 27 2005, 08:56 AM
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#6
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Dis member Group: Members Posts: 896 Joined: 17-December 03 From: Michigan Member No.: 1,444 |
That's a good point, Jake. I hadn't thought of that. I don't tighten the crap out of my bolts because those rubber seals can absorb a lot of slop if needed.
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URY914 |
Jul 27 2005, 09:07 AM
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#7
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 121,010 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
Why didn't they use an rubber O ring instead of a seal with a flat surface on it that will deform when tightened too much?
P |
ClayPerrine |
Jul 27 2005, 09:15 AM
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#8
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,512 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
Yes... the cooler will come out. I posted an article that tells how to remove the cooler when the engine is in the car. You remove the nuts, slide the cooler forward, and unscrew the studs with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Then the cooler will come out the bottom. |
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aveale |
Jul 27 2005, 09:54 AM
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#9
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Fun Times Group: Members Posts: 194 Joined: 18-August 04 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 2,563 |
Thanks C,
Read the article, and I am on my way! T |
Cap'n Krusty |
Jul 27 2005, 10:04 AM
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#10
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Hmmmmm.............................. A lot of questionable information here. The sleeves in the cooler prevent it from being overtightened. The only possible results of "overtightening" would be failure of the studs, the nuts, or the threads in the case. The flanges of the seals compress to their design limits. You need to use the proper nuts, the thick flat washers, and the spring washers. Studs are used to protect the case, assure the correct installation depthj in the threaded holes in the case, and the correct thread engagement of the fastening hardware. I can't comment on the potential for leaks when using bolts, because I've never seen a T4 engine that had them. I can understand the reasoning behind Jake's statement, but I don't totally buy the theory in this case. Using seals of the incorrect material or dimensions is also likely to cause leaks. The Cap'n |
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Jake Raby |
Jul 27 2005, 10:35 AM
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#11
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Capn,
I never thought about it till we had an incurable leakwith bolts..... Replaced them with studs by accident and it went away- Thats how formed the hypothesis stated above... |
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