advice on bonding fiber glass to metal, a spoiler to my trunk lid Options

[brant]

So years ago I ran a trunk lid with a rayco spoiler
the (poorly trained) body guy that did the work in 1986 simply riveted it to the trunk panel and then used bondo to hide the seam.

Of course every 3 months the bondo would crack.
I probably had him re-do it 3 times before I just gave up and left the crack.

I later changed the trunk lid out and put the old one in storage.

I was thinking today that I could probably strip it and bond it CORRECTLY and then re-use that lid in my current project.

So the question is: What are the proper bonding agents to use when bonding fiberglass to metal.

The rayco spoiler is at least gel coated, almost plastic like and not raw fiberglass.

I do want to hide the seam again after I get it correctly bonded. are there special fillers that will beter take the abuse, or will regular old lightweight polyester filler work as long as its bonded with something better than 6 rivets?

what do people use on fender flares.
I've seen nice fender flares that lasted for years without cracking.

thanks guys.
brant

[MikeP]

Does the spoiler hang off the edge of the deck lid slightly on the sides? Did the crack start at the edges and work in? If so (I had this problem) you probably need to grind a larger gap between the bottom edges of the spoiler and the top of the rear 1/4s even the best bond won't hold up to all that flexing, esp. when closing the trunk. I've read about a few of the products out there and the epoxy seems to be getting the best reviews.

[redshift]

You need to use glass mat, and epoxy... first thing is to remove the tail, and get all the goo cleaned off of both surfaces.

Clean it up, and I'll go look for a site with pictures of steps 1-8. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)


M

[brant]

the rayco style doesn't hang over the edges.
I'll try to find a picture of it the rayco


cool..
epoxy's then.
thanks for the info.
If you know of the brand or particular type that would be great!!!!!

TIA seriously thanks
brant

[redshift]

West System is the best I know of.

I use sectioned milk jug sides, for spreaders, and pretty much scraps of all kinds, for tools. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)



M

[scotty914]

just go get a tube of corvette body adhesive it is made for boning fiber glass to metal.

also you want to remove the gell coat where ever you are going to bond it . gel coat has wax in it and you want to remove that to get a good bond

[914forme]

West Systems

Or you can use a more expensive system by Duramix - this is great stuff with multipule work ranges they also make a special filler. Used it on GT flares, worked like a charm, $$$ but worked the first time and really well.

[SpecialK]

To bond your spoiler to your trunk use a good quality structural adhesive:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppa...structuradh.php

Make sure both surfaces are absolutely clean, treat the bare metal surface with a Ospho or the like, and lightly sand the contact surface of the spoiler prior to installation.

I'm not sure how the rayco spoiler is attached "normally", but you'll definitely want some sort of hardware to help out the adhesive.

[Mueller]

QUOTE (914forme @ Jul 28 2005, 03:41 PM)

West Systems Or you can use a more expensive system by Duramix - this is great stuff with multipule work ranges they also make a special filler. Used it on GT flares, worked like a charm, $$$ but worked the first time and really well.

The Duramix stuff doesn't seem too expensive..

Duramix pricing

[redshift]

Oh yeah, body adhesives... as used on thee Space Shuttle..

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

What if your tiles come off in a sweeper?


M

[scruz914]

Isn't it important that the contours of the two surfaces being joined match as close as possible?

[Mueller]

QUOTE (scruz914 @ Jul 28 2005, 04:16 PM)

Isn't it important that the contours of the two surfaces being joined match as close as possible?

depends on the adhesive....some can tolerate larger gaps

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

QUOTE (redshift @ Jul 28 2005, 12:09 PM)

West System is the best I know of.

My buddy recommends them as well. Since he's a composite engineer for Ford and personally worked on the new GT, I sorta trust him (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) And that doesn't include my positive bias of him being an avid Type 3 owner (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

[SpecialK]

QUOTE (scruz914 @ Jul 28 2005, 05:16 PM)

Isn't it important that the contours of the two surfaces being joined match as close as possible?

Good point!


And that Duramix stuff doesn't look to bad either. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/idea.gif)

I've been workin' around flyin' machines so long I've got "Hysolitosis" ........ (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif) No, it has nothing to do with bad breath, or itchy rashes in unmentionable places...more of a mental condition. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/screwy.gif)

[brant]

this is all great stuff guys..
I can't find the rayco spoiler on line..
I'll keep looking for a pic

brant